Thanks for the how to. I’m going to go now and tackle this huge maple that is hung up. The power company wouldn’t touch it but after watching this I think I can handle it. What’s the worst that can happen? Update: We’ll, I tried it and I died. Yep, it killed me. Damn
A simple and controlled approach: Make a notch on top (the compression side), then cut from below (the tension side). The correct depth, size of the cuts and location depends on the situation. (If big tree and/or multiple entanglements and/or very bent = you make a pro do it.) Chip away at the tree and observe how it reacts, SLOWLY. Don't just bury the bar in the wood and expect everything to work out. It's very easy to pinch it and very troublesome to get it released. Step back when you spot movement. Ask yourself and reconsider what you're doing.
Yeah I kinda trial and stuck my saw but chaining/rope controls the bottom so it doesn't do anything too crazy. It'll twist and roll sometime if you don't kinda sketchy
Great video. At 1:44 you could drill two holes 2 inches away on either side of the center of the plate and tap the holes with coarse threads. Then, next time, you can use a bolt type wheel puller (about $18 at Harbor Frieght) and pop off the plate in case it gets stuck. Just make sure the holes are the same distance from center, on exact opposite sides, and all the way through to maintain balance. You can even add a 2nd set of threaded holes about 4 inches from the center but in-line with the other two holes (again 1 on each side to maintain balance). Then you can get a piece of 1/8 inch thick steel stock from an Ace/True Value hardware store, drill two matching holes in it and cut it to length so you can temporarily bolt it onto the plate so the end will act as a bar and stop up against the deck somewhere and keep it firmly in place from spinning as you remove/reinstall the center bolt. If you don't have the drills, taps, and such to make the modifications, see if a local garage can do it for you. Clean it all up, and mark where you want things cut and drilled and most guys will ask for something like $10. This all doesn't help you now, but you will be ready for the next time.
The way my work crew would do that is hook up a block and tackle, then do a top cut just below the cable, when engaging the wench it would act as a catapult breaking at the cut and the widowmaker would slide out of the crotch of the tree landing safely on the ground.
like a 6 shot revolver loaded with 5 rounds - there are two classic approaches. 1. pick it up carefully and unload it. 2. play Russian roulette. our man said 2 all the way.
I'll pass on that, see lots of things that could go wrong there and it seems really sketchy the closer you get to the other tree. I'd look hard at the tree it is hung up in, make a decision if it is reasonable to just fell the other tree with little to no risk. If so just drop the other tree, if not reasonably safe then probably try and drag it one way or another or get someone with a crane lift to cut it free up top and just let it drop.
I've cut numerous trees hung up....i cut firewood length by cutting UP from the bottom....no wasted firewood and doesn't look as dangerous as what i watched you do...
two days of soaking with PB Blaster.... mine came off with an air impact wrench. the blade bar/pan... not so much... I broke it. My fix? Got a new JBar HD6. ya gotta do what ya gotta do
An amateur trying to be professional and failing miserably. What at is debatable, 1) certainly not the preferred method and use of a chain saw and 2)certainly not how to produce an instructional video. Don’t give up the day job just yet.
I had a tree like this near the house. I did what you did, but the last cut was scary because once the tree was vertical I couldn't be 100% which direction it would fall. I hooked a come along to the bottom of the tree and pulled it off the other tree so it would fall down instead of to the right,.. into the house.
What I saw says you'd be in more danger with more detail on this method. Best to make cuts perpendicular to the piece, start from top and finish from bottom. Gets tricky where this video ends, with the piece vertical. Sometimes you can drop the tree its hung in, or use a tractor/truck and pull the base out from under it.
@@chrisdoing3714 LOTS of times I've done close to what you see here. Yes, you end up with a vertical piece standing, just as you would with a GOOD tree still rooted. Not nearly as dangerous as one may think
@@tooge47 And what I see here is not "safe" nor really efficient. The multiple wedge cuts are only useful if you getting paid by the hour. Cutting it at vertical is nothing like felling from the stump, you got no control of where it falls.
So . . . what I saw was a few cuts with no explanation, some of which showed you waiting and not sure how if it would fall like you expected. In a "how to" video, purporting to explain how to "safely" bring down a big tree that is hung up. At the end of those few cuts, the tree is left in a VERY unsafe vertical and still hung up position . . . and then the video ends. Thanks. I think I've got it.
I’m glad you said armadillo, I’ve tried everything from moth balls, pee, fire crackers and live traps. I was wondering if I could thin the population with a body trap
They work like a champ with armadillos! The key is to find the main den and put it over entrance or guide them through it with silt fence. I take silt fence, cut it in half and use a staple gun to attach wooden spikes about every 2 feet. Make sure you tie off your conibear bc sometimes it won’t kill the giant ones and they can crawl away with it. Usually they don’t get far. Good luck. I only use these when I know there are no dogs or cats at the job I’m doing.
You can buy the correct 1 inch wrench for the same price as that castle nut you're rounding off with that pipe wrench. Buy more tools instead of more parts. Save a knuckle and less cussing.
@@riverratpat259 ebay. Torque doesn't matter, any normal wrench will work. It's a rare job, not high production. Use antiseieze, crank the nut down, put the cotter pin in, go bush hog. It's not the space shuttle.
Wonder if a gear puller would work. THe other thing I'd try is putting down some wood on top of the housing and shiming in a felling wedge. (One per side)
Flip the brush cutter back over once you get the castle nut off. Then you can use a heavy bar and a knocker to bang the jumper off through the hole in the top of the deck.
