Awesome. Is the concern with heat one of just wanting the mud not to get too hot in summer heat in general? Or is it a concern that the relative difference in temperature between the attic and garage will cause air migration, or having one side cool and one side hot might affect the mud?
Yeah, I get that same insulation machine from HOme Depot. It’s the one to get, it has the on off button on the end of the hose so you can turn the machine off when you are in the attic
Best tool I found for working on drywall is a 3.5" x 7" smartphone and it allows me to call someone who's good at working on drywall. Really cuts down on the amount of sanding I'll have to do as well.
You connect the wood with only drywall when usually bulkheads are made out of OSB then drywall intalled over it...I guess it will stay intact since it is a small area.
Have you tried killz drywall primer? This brand is around 80-100 dollars right now and am wondering if you can get the same results with a cheaper Porous sealer primer.
Your video was exactly what i needed to see. Thank you! Ive done lots of drywall projects in my homes but now have to remove tile, just like this kitchen, and wasnt sure how to do the fix without removing the countertops. The reinforcement mat is a perfect solution. Yay!
came to look at insulation, and couldn't help but see the horrible electrical work. 0:26 wire ran behind the box, sandwiched between it and exterior sheathing. big no-no! other places staples right tight against the wire bend radiuses, where slight pulling could damage the wire outer jacket and kink the conductors. guess inspectors are getting more lax, but they'd have made us rewire much of that in the mid to late 90's. guess that's why they're forcing AFCI down everyone's throats.
I rewired my house in copper had aluminum wire I just took it to the studs on the walls where outlets were which was most walls. I used this method of rolling over the tape I didn't want to invest in automatic drywall taping machine for one job. Waste more compound but it's not that expensive. Compared to what a contractor wanted to do the job which was $28k dollars. I love doing DIY jobs might take me longer sometimes I have to do it over saves ton of money.
Short and sweet, just the answer I needed! You mentioned you wouldn't have used that tape. Does that mean you'd use the grey mesh tape for some reason, or is there something else I'm not aware of yet? Thank you
Being an "off angle" he almost certianly means "No Coat" or "Strait-Flex". These are special tapes that are more ridged than regular paper tape and help maintain a crisp clean line on off angles. They can be used for problematic 90 deg angles too but regular paper tape is almost always a better more cost effective option. Mesh tape isn't great/recommended for inside corners but people do use it. Especially plasterers.
Mr. Ferguson have you tried the drywall flexible gasket by great stuff pro? Recently gave it a try and was not impressed at all couldn't get it to work.
Mr. Ferguson which collated attachment are you using on the Dewalt screw gun? Thanks for the cool video. Your content in general is invaluable and continues to help me. God bless you.
Okay Myron. Hanging walls with the “ceiling” lift. 1)- Position the wheeled “carriage” close to the wall to be hung. The 2 moveable arms of the carriage should be against the wall. 2)- Flip the floor brake down so it is in contact with the floor. 3)- Press the locking mechanism down and simultaneously push the entire lift forward to the wall. The arms will then spread further out and allow the lift to move very close to the wall. With the floor brake in position the lift can’t move backwards away from the wall. 4)- Proceed to lift the sheet into position as normal. Otherwise an informative video. 👍🏻
I was so worried about this on my ceilings so I called in two different foundation experts. They both told me the same thing. My foundation was perfect but when they were originally putting up the plaster they must have done a bad job. Over the years as it settled and dried, it just would crack open. So basically check foundation and then if its all good just plaster it over.
@@Chuco029 The plaster in my house in spots has settled and pulled completely away from the original nails fastening it to the joist. I'm fastening like this video shows and hoping the crack doesn't come back. Mine's gyprock lathe and drywall screws will catch the backing.
I started as a dryway finisher back in 1969. (retired now) Why would he roll it on? Rolling it on, you must keep changing from roller to broad knife and pan or hulk and trowel to wipe it down. Just go ahead and use a hulk and trowel. (much faster) Another faster way than using a roller is to take an 8-inch broad knife and file a half-moon going from end to end. Take the half-moon just a little down. Then, apply the mud (spackle, joint compound) with a 4-inch knife on the block coat and wipe it off with the broad knife. On the skim coat (last), just use an 8-inch trowel or 8-inch broad knife. This guy would not make much money on the job site, mainly doing piecework. I was in it for 52 years and was taught by my dad, who got into it as drywall replaced plaster.
Because he's not a finisher, or he's showing DIYers ways around learning to finish. Only time I use a roller to apply mud is if I'm skim coating whole walls or ceilings. Just coating seams, you're right its a waste of time. Even though I can apply with my knife as fast as I can the roller, changing out the tools in my hands eats that up in no time.
@@jeffkieffer418 Everybody is different in how fast they are. Some are indeed slower than others using. My dad taught me with a hulk and trowel. You really don't see that much, like you used to. At one point, that was the way everybody did it. If you are doing the seams, and can't use a Hulk and Trowel, try the broad knife by applying with a 6-inch knife. And wiping with the broad knife that you file or grind to a half moon. If I still had mine, I would post a photo of you or email you a picture. Doing it that way is fast, then after you skim it out (last coat) your mug when it dries is thin. There is another coat after the skim coat. That is called glazing. On that coat, get the mud a little thin, but not too thin. You need to be able to work with it. You apply it on every part of the drywall, then wipe it down tight. When you put it on, then go back and wipe it down tight. Do not do large sections at a time, it may start to set up on you. Doing it this way, if you blocked, skimmed, and wiped the glaze coat tight, you should not have to sand. But, remember, I was doing this for many years and was fast. You could glaze using a roller, just get a wide broad knife to wipe it down tight.
Honestly, if you’re a professional like yourself, it might be easy for you but someone Who doesn’t do a whole lot of drywall that would save me a ton of time as it would take forever to get the mud onto the knife and onto the seam Just getting it out, the bucket is a challenge without dropping it on the floor sadly so the roller would really help someone like me. Also applying the right amount of mud is not easyeasy. I usually got 10 times too much or not enough.
Thanks, Looks like I have been doing it wrong for 40 years. No wonder I have not made any Money. By the way this video is geared toward people who are just taping a small job like I did in the video. All the best.
