The 3 small screws holding the reflector stripped instantaneously upon trying to unscrew, even being careful and trying different Phillips head sizing. All in garbage now.
My Model AL-2150 The paper came falling down with led lights on it . Just hanging down . Can the be replace or just needs some kind of glue? On my deck light sun might have dried glue up.
Greetings, this module is really just an audio detection device. When I originally created my Arduino circuit with display, I was really hoping to create a decibel meter. Truth be told, I filmed the video as I was developing my circuit. After several attempts, I gave up on the idea that this module could be used in such a way. So, the circuit ended up being a poor sound detector with a fancy OLED display.
@@rickmorenojr Hi and thanks for your reply. I ended up presenting this as a decibelmeter anyway but i could only get accurate readings under 50 decibel. Tried with different calibrations and thought it was just me that was not experienced enough to figure out a good solution. But it seems many people have had problems getting accurate readings.
Thanks for the video, Ricardo. Two questions. My carriage light was blinking so I replaced the APC-16-350 with same driver. It's no longer blinking but only one of the four LED lights on the ring are working now. What would that mean? Also, a couple of the same Costco carriage lights in the front of house have a slightly different driver. Part number on those is jw12W350-36, input voltage 108-132 VAC 50/60hz. I had ordered several of the APC-16-350 assuming they were all the same but this one will not work in the front lights. Do they have to be exactly the same driver? Thank you!
Engineer approved. Some people don’t get that many people just like to build things, even if it is overly complicated and more expensive than need be 😅. I personally love it. Plenty of great ideas here and well thought out
Completely agree. He didn't say this was inexpensive nor fast. There are a ton of those already out here. I love the detail and the instructions, including the intro diagram. The only thing that would set this completely over the top would be project list. Well done, Ricardo, and thank you.
my Manual for (altec AL-2148) says on Pg.2: Maximum Wattage 9 W.. so the APC-16-350 , even the APC-12-350 is concerning unless it has a range.. STILL confused..
Sorry, I'm not sure if that's the same model. The idea behind this video is for you to examine your existing driver, decode the values listed on that driver, and try to find a replacement driver. Do not simply buy what I used hoping it may work, unless you have lights exactly like mine. As far as wattage, the driver's wattage should exceed the LED light array wattage. This is just the driver's capability. Next, you need to determine the voltage range required. Looking at your existing driver, hopefully there's something like "voltage range" on its label. Your new driver needs to meet or exceed this. if your existing driver's voltage range is 18-33 volts, then your new driver must have this range or greater but includes the original values. For example, 14-48V. Lastly, is good to check the temperature range and water resistance of the new driver. The reason we need a wide range of operating voltages is because LED's voltage drop varies with temperature. And just to let everyone know, it's been over six years since I made this video, and all of my lights are still working.
Good day Sir 👋 How may I set my 4 pcs of 4 pin rgb led module to my 4 pcs of speakers separately 1st 4pin rgb led module to 1st speaker, 2nd 4pin rgb led module to 2nd speaker, 3rd 4pin rgb led module to 3rd speaker and 4th 4pin rgb led module to 4th speaker with super slow changing colors such as 10 seconds delay transition colors of fading rgb and switch automatically to music reactive mode when there is playing music or songs on my videoke and turn back automatically to super slow changing colors of red green blue when there's no music playing or in standby mode? 4 pcs of 4 pin rgb led module to my 4 pcs of speakers separately: 1st 4pin rgb led module to 1st speaker, 2nd 4pin rgb led module to 2nd speaker, 3rd 4pin rgb led module to 3rd speaker and 4th 4pin rgb led module to 4th speaker
Jeeeeeezzzz!! I only got half way through this!!! So, watering your few plants is more of a problem than building these??? Love the "Bug Block", though!! Where are the bugs gonna go anyway, in the water?? Way over thinking!!!
The bug block is a GREAT IDEA!! Who wants mosquitoes or other bugs nesting/birthing in the PVC. There are already 20+ garden pests to fend with. He was the first person I heard addressing bug prevention in a wicking set-up, which is exactly what I was thinking about. 👍👍👍
In MMBasic, it's quite simple. Something like RTC gettime to give time$ and date$ the data. RTC getreg/setreg 3 (register 3), variable/value or from/to the RTC. RTC settime 2024,12,31,20,30,59. Option system i2c gp0,gp1 (setting up the wires, gp0=SDA, gp1=SCL as an example I have working.) - VCC/ground is not software..... It's in the manual, if this is confusing. A pico will update time$, date$ as long it's on and start up with a reset to 2000,1,1,0,0,0 then autorun.bas or clock.bas in flash (option autorun 1 for example) can start with rtc gettime. Every now and then maybe again. MMBasic is a normal flash like the others to begin this specific adventure.
@@davebryant8050 Me or the author? I tried MANY different combinations of planters. Some work ok and others not so much. One of the better ones was a cheap laundry basket planter. Costs less than $5 to make, including the oil drain pan (new) from walmart. Got the benefit of air pruning and subirrigation both. Unfortunately those still do not hold enough soil for a tomato plant to thrive like I want them to. But bush greens exploded with growth and production. Tried grow bags, 80L ones, limited or no results. Tried potato grow bags, same problem. Tried 5 gal customized ones and those did OK. Tried different kinds of bagged potting mixes - little to no benefit. This year I cooked last years potting soils to ensure no pathogens, bugs, or weed seeds. Too early to tell right now. Tried IV drip bags for drip irrigation - waste of money. BEST watering solution I found was those 5 gal refillable plastic water jugs for water cooler dispenser (not the flimsy cheap on the shelf ones at Walmart either). Used a build coring bit, drilled a hole in the ground, filled the bottle, inverted it and placed into the hole. Water lasted a week. About 3-4 days when the weather is roasting hot outside. Tried long neck wine bottles in the same setup for different plants. Those generally worked OK. Tried water crystals with little benefit. I made two new subirrigated planters - 20 gal each but with the tubing in the bottom, they only hold about 15 gal. Using those for tomato plants. Cost me about $40 each to make too. Doesn't count the Happy Frog and Black Kow manure I put in them. Everything for those is all new. Now if the dang weather would stop getting cold....
there is a slight problem whit the code it allows the addition of the master tag into the char array mytags which to me seem Wrong if (tagIndex!=0){ //Remove existing tag myTags[tagIndex] = '\0'; Serial.println(F(" Tag Removed!")); } else { //Not existing, add tag myTags[tagsCount] = strdup(tagID.c_str()); Serial.println(F(" Tag Added!")); tagsCount++; } in the else statement which runs if the tagindex is not 0 allows the addition of the master tag.
Good instruction however I decided to dump the Driver and LED board for a snap in light socket. Just drill a hole for the socket into the deflector plate. Bought from Lowes for $5 each.
@@user-gl9vp6em6o If you need your dusk to dawn sensor, simply wire it between the house black wire and hot input of the driver. Think of the photo sensor as a switch. Or between the house black wire and the light socket.
No. First, did you simply buy the same driver? Not all LED lights use the same driver. This video was a follow-up from my first video. Watch that video first!!! You must match the driver's voltage range and wattage/mA. Failure to do so may burn up your LED array.
I had to fill in the args for lcd.begin() -- with the columns and rows of the display (16, 2) -- instead of leaving it blank, AND I needed to write Wire.begin() into the setup func or else it wouldn't run.
Good video. My issues are the following: The ground wire that’s attached below the nut, on the piece that is attached flush to the wall, is really frayed. I don’t know what to call the piece. Secondly, can I screw a wire nut around the ground wire from the lamp and from the box together? These lamps were given to us. I’m concerned about the frayed ground wire that’s connected to the plate piece.
Ricardo, I just completed this repair on two of my Costco lights but I still have a problem. One of them appears to have a failing LED board as only one of the LEDs come one brightly with a couple of others being dim and yet others not lighting at all. It seems that the board is failing and even after I replaced the LED driver. Do you or any of the readers know where I can buy the little round LED plates with the aluminum heat sink?
Costco has many different LED lights available. Do you have exactly the same light as mine? If yours looks different, or your LED array looks different, or your constant current driver looks different, DO NOT copy what I did! You may damage your LED light! This video was a follow up from my first video. That video kinda goes through how to buy a replacement driver. YOU MUST find a new driver that matches the old driver or has better ratings. You must match the mA rating! So, if you existing driver has 350mA, you need a 350mA replacement. This is the constant current that the constant current driver will supply. Higher values will burn up your LEDs. Lower values may not work at all. If your old driver has an output voltage range like 18-35 volts, YOU MUST find a driver that has that range. It can also be a little lower and a little higher, but that range must be included. For example, a new driver with a range of 11-45V would cover the previous range of 18-35 volts. Failure to meet this will subject your LEDs to the wrong voltage values. LEDs voltage requirements change with temperature. This is the reason we need this range. Lastly wattage must meet or exceed the previous wattage. This is where I think greater is better. Having a higher wattage gives you a margin of driver capability.
My lights started failing about 2 years after a bought them. I liked the looks of these lights versus the new one available at Costco. So, I decided to fix rather than replace them.
W vids that goes straight to the point. I would say this is not really for the beginners but since I already have a deep knowledge of electronics this is quite easy for me to digest.
