I had this code ( '14 jetta 1.8 tsi) and a very surprising fix. Had p029900 and epc with heavy throttle, especially under load. Acceleration was weak, and sounded like weird turbo noise under throttle, had turbo smoke leak test and shop diag ($170 and no leaks, they told me to replace hpfp due to fuel in the oil, which is apparently VERY rare issue with hpfp especially having no fuel pressure codes/issues etc. so questionable, but replaced pump myself anywhay since it's 160k miles on the original. After BRAND NEW hpfp install would STILL get some epc light p2099 code and then even Hide cylinder, celinder knock, cylinder pressure, and Torque limitation codes under throttle. Was going to try to replace Diverter valve as last idea hoping that was the issue. Car had mostly new sensors already except the CRANKSHAFT SENSOR. I swapped it for a new one since I only bc I already had the car on stands not expecting any affect and.... ALL LIGHTS< CODES AND ISSUES FIXED... turbo noise is gone, torque and power, acceleration are all back to normal. So $170 diag ,shop recommended $400 hpfp later did NOT fix it but $18 CRANK sensor DID. Have even redlined the engine full throttle multiple times and good great power and torque that was terrible before is all back and NO lights NO weird turbo noise. Haven't seen this reported before so maybe rare but sensor is not a hard install and well worth it. I'd say REPLACE CRANKSHAFT SENSOR IF ABOVE 50-60K MILES TO AVOD POTENTIAL ISSUES. 2014 jetta 1.8 tsi, 155k mi
Two days after I did this, I drove from SLC, Utah to Tyler, Texas and then back a week later. The car drove exactly as it should. A little farther than 55 miles out and back, but does that help?
Hi Josh! Thanks for watching! We did end up moving to a larger car when we had another baby, but for as long as we had the car, the issue had not resurfaced.
2 years only , I have mine for 4 1/5 now n I got the PO299 But still runs like a champion 🏆 I do get a lil lag speeds of 35 mph streets . On freeway runs great. That sounds good but to much work. And might last for a bet. Yea it's kinda of costly but it's worth it. And it will last you an other 4 or 5 years longer. New turbo
Hi Connor, from what I understand and experienced, there is a noticeable rattle in the actuator arm. This is done physically with your hands. At 3:10 in this video you can get a good idea from Humble Mechanic. Thanks for watching! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7fk6cSDE3hE.html&ab_channel=HumbleMechanic
@@bkrdr8017 hey thanks for the response and helpful video, When I was taking the turbo out and when enough parts were removed I felt for it from the top and I felt some rattle so I ordered a new one, hopefully all goes well haha
In this case, I had already replaced the diverter valve and the issue remained. That made my diagnosis easier. I unfortunately don't know the best answer for your question. I did read, previously, that you can reach down to the turbo and hear/feel whether the actuator arm has a rattle. Thanks for watching!
I found a way easier fix without removing anything. Takes about ten minutes. Going down from engine bay top side. Use a pry bar and tweak the wastegate solenoid mount away from the turbo enought to achive preload on the gate arm. So simple!
@@marcelo5101 Thanks for watching! While I did make the time to do this repair on our car, my purpose with this video is to encourage others, such as yourself, to do it themselves. Give it a shot! Set some time aside on your weekend or day off, check out the links to the other videos in the description that guided me on the repair and go for it!
The turbo removal wasn't as bad as I had thought it would be. I was able to do it in the garage using only jack stands to keep the car up a little. I posted a link to a video in the description that I used as a reference. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video, I'm going to try this once I find a local welder. My 2012 Q5 looks like a pain to remove the turbo, was there any gaskets, crush washers or anything else that you replaced when putting back on? Do I need to worry about oil or coolant leaking once I take it off? Thanks in advance.
Hello! Thanks for watching. The coolant lines have gaskets and the oil lines have O rings that should be replaced. The exhaust manifold has a gasket as well. The coolant will drain when you remove the lines and should be replaced with new. A more in-depth explanation of the turbo removal that helped me is at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gj7B0kZ7_pc.html
@@franciswhite7170 I removed the turbo from the top, but needed to pull the axle to access the hardware to remove the bracket, oil and coolant lines from below. The axle was easily removed. Remove the wheel, loosen and remove the axle bolt from the end, (You'll need leverage) and you can pop the axle out. There are some good videos on RU-vid that can help. Perhaps this may help. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9m1Jz9HbmOo.html&ab_channel=DeutscheAutoParts Our Tiguan didn't have the triple square bolts on the axle, but instead had a keyed spline into the transaxle.
Thank you for the feedback Rob! I decided to show only this part of the repair because it wasn't widely known. There are a few videos showing the turbo removal that I had found. I've posted the link for the turbo removal above that I liked the most.
I have purchased mine from my local dealer or in the case of this clip, from VW parts Denver (vwpartsdenver.com). They tend to have good prices. With shipping, I still saved a couple bucks on the clip over buying from my local dealer. I did have to wait a week though.
@@bkrdr8017 I have my 2009 Volkswagen tiguan had the same problem with Turbo code PO299 pressure can you fix it for me. How much because when I watch the video is not a lot of work at all, also I need what parts , last thing how can I meet you. Or your phone number.........??
@@joelngandu9571 Hi Joel, the most time consuming part of the repair is the removal and installation of the turbo itself. This could be done in your garage, or driveway. For the welding, I'm sure you could take it to a local welder for the quick repair there. It appears you are in TX which would make your travel excessive for me to do the repair for you since I'm in UT. As far as parts go, I used the VW anti rattle clip. VW part# 06J-145-220-A. Thanks!