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after two years, my Motion Pro throttle cable failed. there's something wrong inside that tube where the cables do split into two parts. it broke a few kilometers away from home and the carb slides were not able to open anymore, just a little over the idle position. i had to be dragged out of the forest area by a relative shortly before it got dark. anyways, i already felt from beginning that the cable and the caps are not very sturdy, rather another made in china rubbish. i installed the TORS back on as a alternative, but the idle is still controlled by the screws that came with the TORS Eliminator Kit.
Well that sounds like a trying experience but the tors also have some issues. I would make sure to inspect your bike regularly to try and avoid issues with either tors or tors delete setups.
@@RedoBansheeParts yeah that's the best what i should do, to inspect everything from time to time. i'm experimenting with a original spare part throttle cable and the Motion Pro one right now, how i can combine both. the original cable from thumb throttle lever along with this tube thingy to the mothion pro Y split cable with the caps. it seems to work so far and long enough, because the slides in the carbs move all the way up and fully close. i think, i could use it again without the TORS and i do not have to buy a new one 😀
Have my shee built. Bored, shaved heads. Custom rods & piston. Runs race fuel. My issue is i keep shearing off keyways. Just to confirm: 1-Flat of keyway againt crank ? 2- What is torque spec on flywheel nut ?
Text or email me and I can send you a diagram related to woodruff key position. For the Torque its 59 ft-lbs on the flywheel nut and you may want to consider Lapping the flywheel.
I put a new tusk kit in last year about 10 hours ride time tops on it, I didn’t line those up it’s actually way past the arrow and needs to be brought it but noticed my clutch is sipping in high rpms is that from the adjustment or do you think I’ll need new plates? Thank you very much
you need a longer travel ferrule at the lever/ perch and you need to readjust the pressure plate slack adjuster. If you want to discus this more please feel free to give us a call at 541-419-6054.
@@RedoBansheeParts it’s a stock clutch perch if that helps, i adjusted the clutch on the pressure plate as well, I ordered a new clutch kit and clutch cable , the cable is original from 01 and figured it could be stretched . When I put it all on if it doesn’t line up I’ll reach out! Thank you very much for your time
My banshee has a slight growl that started after a ride, still runs fine, would it make sense to just put new crank bearings on? Or should I replace the whole crank?
Can’t you tell with the spacer on the bottom of the cylinder? Once you put a 4mm you need a spacer and most likely a cool head unless the top cover is worked on
What would make it hard to shift into first gear? Its smooth and almost acts like it clicked in but doesnt, it takes like 6-7trys in a row before it finally kicks in. Havent had chance to look but was wonder if a loose or out of adjustment shift dentent of even the spring worn could cause that?.....shift through the rest good, you can feel/hear a faint click when trying to shift to first each time but just like its in neutral. I doubt wring trans oil could doit although it reeks like heavy weight gear oil.
you want the key parallel with the crankshaft itself not the taper. If you want to text message the store phone or email i will send you a visual diagram of how to install them.
Or, as the manual states: DO NOT hammer on any ball joint..... Instead, it is shown how to fabricate a proper tool so that you can remove both tie rod ends and ball joints properly. If you're going to spend all this $$ buying and maintaining a bike like this, the first thing you should buy after the bike, or before it, is a decent manual. The Clymer one is perfect Just saying
This video was very helpful, i just bought Chinese carbs and didn't know what to do abot it not having idol screws, going to use the screws from the old stock carbs and make it work, thanks
This was not something we built we just fixed a few things. The Carbs had the tors deleted but no idle screws so we added them for proper adjustment and the Athena Cylinder do not require case porting.
Hey I got a 96 Yamaha banshee and my problem is it idles fine until I drop into gear and once I get going and get from about 3/4 to full throttle it bogs and I lose power completely and once it gets back to low rpm’s it’s fine and it didn’t start this until I got a rebuild kit put into both carbs I need help I wanna go out and ride 😬
@@RedoBansheePartssadly the kit doesn’t state what size jets are in there that could be my problem like it’s not opening up in the high end at all unless I let off and let the Rpm’s drop then it kicks
I call it trial and error. Just depends how it goes some of the best cars and bikes ever been a complete accident and just worked in an unbelievable way. So do it run it fine out of what it does. Just a reply to first question hopefully I can keep up with the build
Would you be able to help me with jetting my 01? I just rebuilt the top end and I just can’t get the jetting right! Standard bore cylinders, cool head, fmf pipes, stock air box, tors deleted. Jetting I have now is 310 mains, 27.5 pilots, as for the needle jet I have tired every position as well, the 4th notch down seems the best, and have tried every position for the air screw from 1/2 to 2 turns out, runs best at 1 turn out. Any suggestions on where to go from here would be greatly appreciated feels like I have tried everything lol.
I am curious how its running, that might give away what needs to change. Usually with that set up at 1000 elevation we would run a 27.5, 280 Middle Position. We would love to have a phone call with you where we can try and help you out. 541 419 6054
Thats not enough information to give an answer to. If you want to give us a call at 541-419-6054 we can discuss whats going on and maybe point you in some places to check.
Its likely the CDI if its completely Random. CDIs don't have a testing procedure so the best thing to do is swap a known good one on and test it or swap your bad one on to a bike you know runs good normally. Give us a call if you want to talk more about it at 541-419-6054
FREEKIN WEIRD 🤯 what is it with us putting Pro Circuit pipes on our 95’s??? My 1st and current 95 has EVERYTHING STOCK in a box but ONLY 😅had only one set of pipes, +4 timing, tors delete, decked head to bump up compression because we run 113 VP race gas and TORCO PRE-MIX. I too have the title with all matching numbers so I know so we’ll a title is only “good” if all the numbers match. I’ve done 1 top-end w/bore since new because we only ride 3 times a year in the sand so all our quads no matter the year still look GREAT! We always put a bungee cord hooked on the outsides of the rear fenders w/shoe box under it to keep the original plastic perky. AS EVERYONE KNOWS, the CLASIC 1995 look is SO AWESOME & THE year of banshee they paid a lot of attention to be a truly GENUINE YAMAHA PRODUCT!! A copied or knock off way to do things will stick out like a sore thumb so much and even a 5yr old child could tell u the difference and speak truth, that it’s NOT GENUINE 95! Haha all my kids have rode it and it’s had everyone smiling and laughing at all family get togethers. Just recently I took it to a 2017 ATV, go-cart, and motorcycle dyno jet load-cell, dyno. Yes I’ve got all the paperwork at purchase, manual, took kit missing NOTHING,… EVEN THE PSI TIRE GAUGE, key tag wcycle shop name (x2), and of course TITLE!! Oh , about the pro circuit pipes, I’ve got the power core silencers AND the silencers that have spark arrestors inside the silencers so you can ride at any state park w/just a silencer switch. No EXTRA JETTING BECAUSE IT RUNS RICH with the spark arrestor slip on installed on the machine. I’ve had it up for sale many times and just never the rite guy came along yet. I’m almost smack dab in the middle of everything living between Iowa and Illinois
Thanks a lot. Two weeks work and couldn’t find the problem. Did all the steps and watched 100 videos. Last, disconnecting the tors control solved it. Thanks again sir. 0:23
@Re⬅️ banshee hello I'm your neighbor to the north in Washington state having troubles with my Banshee, 2004 LE // the low end bog is driving me nuts, iv tried a few things to try to solve problem but nothing is working/ a few details, pretty much unmolested original owner stock low hour's machine with fmf gnarly pipes power core 2 pipes- air box snorkel removed knockoff k&n high flow filter setup holes drilled in lid &(30) pilot (260) main Elevation, sea level 1000 ft weather temp PNW summer so 72-89deg ::: any tips to point me in the right direction on how to solve my problem would be greatly appreciated 👍🏻 I was told bye hellcat Mr nasty RU-vid channel to try to go up to 270 main and drop one on needle position and 2 turns out on AFM screw ,, and that made it absolutely horrible🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️so I put needle back to stock position and air screw about 1 turn out it helped but it's still really bad down low- again any advice would be greatly appreciated 🤙
Thanks for the great description of what is going on. I would like to schedule some time after the holiday that you are available to talk on the phone possibly a video call with the bike so we can go over some things. Give us a call at 541-419-6054
