I'm a long time mechanic with a lot of experience working on classic cars and hot rods. Hope to get people excited about their cars, and getting them back on the road. I work on classic cars including Mustangs, Camaros, Chevelles, studebakers, and many more. I do detailed how to style videos showing ways to install sheet metal and make patch panels. I do custom paint, and body work. I can do just about anything when it comes to care.
I'm not sure Barry, but when you were inside the car it looked like a small part of the hardware kit might have fallen into the cowl? Like a washer or something.
Bought new Regulator - concourse version if that matters... but the arms tha hold the rollers (inside X 1 and outsice X 2) have to be very cose to their natural position when the glass is in place. Don't count on deflecting the arms to get the screws to hit the window frame... had to perform chiropractic manuever on the arms so the track (on regulator rollers) already sat right on the window frame.
I wonder if the light colored primered dynacorn panel that you received is a item that a previous cystomer bought and then returned. That bring said, it might not even be a Dynacorn brand because who knows if they returned what they had originally purchased from Dynacorn. I say all that because reproduction companies never put their products in a grey primer like that. I've only seen reproduction sheet metal in edp coating.
Barry I have been with you since 15000 subscribers I feel your pain, but I think your plan to visit restorers will help your channel. The idea of a new project will keep people interested more. It may be difficult to travel around but you will raise intrest
Thank you for putting this comparison together of these two machines. I just got a 205ds-B and have been very confused as to what the changes are...what features have been added and what has gone away. Another video talking about this machine specifics more in depth might be useful. Question: Does the new machine have any way to assign voltage and current based on metal thickness as did the original 205ds? Best regards.
Two pieces of absolutely critical info: 1: People will have an inclination, when confronted with the basic harbor freight serpentine belt tool, to use a 12 point socket in order to get around the very limited throw you'll get with most of the 3/8th stud mounting points (there are only four) but this is a major mistake. The fake 19mm bolt on the serpentine Tensioner is made of cast aluminum and you absolutely need to keep all of your pressure on the flats. Do not use 12 point sockets on this, only six point ones!!! 2: The tensioner's hydraulic piston needs to be primed become pliant and get past the air that sits within it at it's resting state. You're supposed to put good forward tension on it three times before putting hard pressure on it to release the belt. Not knowing these two procedures is probably what causes most stripped 19mm bolts on this tensioner.
Any chance you could give me some front apron measurement for me replacing all on 69 mach 1 that was pretty bent up before. Just trying to get it right.
I got total knowledge and total entertainment definitely will be watching you respect understood Manhattan stick together these days love it only in America.❤
And for the record how to change the water pump assembly do you have a video on it myself I may add it to what you doing has a Plus on how minds think alike😊
Yes yes yes yes yes yes as I'm listening to you that's what I discovered too I could have done the same thing again I love the way you think brother respect and understood😂❤
Yes my brother I'm putting mine back together I already took it out I was looking at what you was doing and I love the way you think cuz that's what I had to figure out on my own recognizance respect and understood to us OG Brothers out here doing it!😊
