RU-vid has provided me hours of entertainment and useful information over the years. I hope to be able to do the same. The motto here is "We do it right, 'cause we do it twice."
Hi, i have a little Yard King 4 stroke 24.5cc and i realized the valves are all one part with the cylinder SO is there a path for the pressure to go up into the valve area past the rods and out through that hose there as they also have another hose and nipple on side just under piston area which sends out lot of oily goo into the air cleaner then it goes up a tube and gets sucked into the carb and burnt. Makes the carb throat a little dirty perhaps. So 2 hoses going to Air Cleaner. question- If the gases from crankcase cant get up to the top out through that top hose i HAVE to have that oily hose breathing going to A/Cleaner and CANT Block it off? or crankcase gases will explode seals? So other option is maybe connect a fuel filter to end and let it take all the crap and change it but it would also allow backflow back into CC?. so no good? Any ideas.. thanks?
05 yukon. I replaced my digital control box with a junkyard box and it's still only works at 90°. So I'm just going to leave it.. I did the reset like you did and now my front is working fine on the actuators no year later my rear heat only blows cold. Actually I think it's because I unplugged the battery and I'm going to have to do that again. I've got a parasite draw in my door lock switch is supposed to be common in these suburbans and yukons GMc trucks. Last year I replaced my battery that cured the radio clock being at 12 every day. That's what started the whole goose chase. I replace the radio bad idea because junkyard radios don't work unless you pull a tiny little black resistor. I had to find a video about it. Gm suks
Crankcase pressure fluctuation is also normal, and can be caused by the downward stroke of the under side of the piston on both intake and exhaust stroke. The upward stroke (top of [piston) compresses the gas/air mixture, and 2 strokes later pushes out the exhaust gases above the pistons. It is not always due to blow by pressure past the rings during combustion.
Hello I read the other comments. I have the same problem. I was asking if you replaced the entire block of the motor or just the breather cap? I’m a bit confused, it will help me a lot if you can explain to me. Thanks
Did you ever get it back together and operating correctly? Mines working fine it’s just leaking at the seals.. I’m thinking of doing the work myself but everyone is saying how hard it is.. doesn’t look to bad in my opinion. At least not taking it apart. Just don’t k ow how to reassemble. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for posting the video. To get this procedure to work on my 2003 Silverado I had to go a step further. I left the fuse alone. Instead I disconnected the positive and negative battery cables, held the two cable ends together for 30-40 seconds and then waited another 20 minutes or so to reconnect the battery and then follow the process you described. My guess is there was residual voltage stored in various capacitors that needed to be drained. Nothing else worked for me.
Blow by can be caused by a failing head gasket. Did you do a compression check? Its cheap to replace the head gaskets and adjust the valve lash and rebuild the carburetor. That engine sounds like it runs to smooth to be blow by.
Great video. Got a 2002 Suburban that I purchased recently. It's got vent motor problem I now see. Tried the recalibration procedure and I now hear the actuator motor working, but does not get the front vents. Hearing a click as it tries to find the front vent actuator. Will have to work on it when it gets warmer.
Greetings to you. Tell me please. I have the same pump, but it does not have a booster pump. PW pump fitted with a 14cc gear pump. How do I organize the recharge of the axial pump?
You did everything right except you need to install the part not just have it hanging there. The only way it’s going to move the blend door is it has to be installed.
Yep. The blend door actuator needs to go full hot and cold to know where it needs to be. When it receives resistance from the blend door bottoming out it stops and learns the position.
I have 2 push mowers thatll do that. But they still pull a vacuum. My small engine guy says as long as it pulls a vacuum and doesn't read pressure, then its okay. He says the crankcase ventilation system is circumvented when you remove the oil cap. So itll mist some oil out. Bad blowby will cause the oil to smell like fuel and make it flammable. Yours does seem way excessive. You can see combustion gases coming out of the crankcase.
Its definitely excessive. A new crankcase breather got it running better to finish out the season. Its got over 2000 hours on it. Blow By for sure. Its getting rebuilt as soon as the snow flies.
Is this normal? My kohler 26hp ch735 is doing this too.. it keeps blowing the crank seal out ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-p8Y4iLmyGFg.html
Put in a new crankcase breather to get me through the season. Theres plenty of blow by too, probably why it was throwing oil 5 feet out of the cap. As soon as the snow flies its getting rebuilt. Its got well over 2000 hours on it.
Mine is stuck on heat in the middle of a Florida summer. So I need to get this done. I have the same exact suburban and I’m trying to find the right part. Is there any difference between the actual parts? Do you happen to still have the part number?
I don't have the part number. It was from napa. Just make sure you get one for the FRONT. They all look identical outside but apparently are different. One for the rear will not work.
I have the same problem I would just turn off the car and start it back up and worked fine. Some days would do it like 5 times and then some times I would go months with no issues. What part did you get and from where. Tku
-- Hey thanks, same problem up front. Those cams really like to be lubed as well (under the dashed) used silicone. You could save me a crap ton of time answering this: does this recalibration work for the rear HVAC system as well? What I really need to know now before I spend 95 bucks on a rear module.
I'm not sure about the rear. I actually put a rear module in this car as well and it has been working without issue. So I would give it a try. It costs nothing but a few minutes of your time.
@@brettbuiltit7504 -- Yeah tried it a couple times. Nothing happened, so one of three things. Calibration doesn't work for rear HVAC, the actuator, or module back there is gone, or both. When my parts come in and it get it swapped out, I'll come back and let you know if it does work.
@@MarkJacksonGaming problem for me was actually the wrong actuator. That one in this video was actually for the rear. Got one for the front from an actual parts store and not the jungle website and it worked just fine. I did a part 2 video about it. I'm just amazed somebody found my rambling somewhat useful.
@@brettbuiltit7504 -- You're not going to believe this. I was turning the heat/cool dial on the rear HVAC all the way to the hottest setting. Yeah, put on the reading glasses, that's 'AUTO'. Of course this was after I tore it all apart today, looking at it, and the actuator seemed to be working fine. Long story short, I'm a complete idiot, but I did get a look at the module part number, already replaced OEM. What's that saying: the sun shines on a dog's ass every once in a while. 200 bucks saved :) Thanks again for your help.