TotalBoat is a brand built on years of experience and knowledge in selling and supporting marine supplies and products. We focus on having the right products, people and technology to ensure our customers get the most out of their boats and their DIY, art, woodworking and home projects. We know that you do not have the time or the money to waste on products that do not work. Our how-to and product demo videos are part of our belief that an educated customer is the most successful. Don't struggle with projects that can prove to be intricate and complex: get expert advice and products here!
That is why we have spent years researching and testing products for the TotalBoat line that are of excellent standards and a great value. We are proud to say the products are our best sellers amongst brands that have been on the market far longer. In a short time we have created customer trust and a dedicated following of TotalBoat users. Join the family of happy TB customers and see for yourself!
❤ I am surprised more people don’t comment on this promo video! I found their paint and coated a blue fiberglass “box” I use to store shoes on the boat and also put non skid on it so I can stand on it occasionally - even for a 70 year old with no prior boat work experience, it came out great!!
If you were going to put gelcoat on the bottom of the hull instead of paint, would you use polyester instead of resin but do all the other steps the same still?
Correct! It's very important to apply multiple coats of TotalProect over the TotalFair before gelcoating. Gelcoat does not adhere to TotalFair so the primer is crucial to ensure the gelcoat adheres well.
Please help?!! I’m using your epoxy for the bar top at my pub. I’ve been working overnight while we are closed to strip, sand and stain the bar. I was planning to pour the epoxy just after midnight when we close and rope the bar off for the next day until happy hour. How long does the tabletop epoxy have to cure before it can be used without damaging it? I’m trying not to close down if at all possible. It says 24-48 hours and fully cured in 5-7 days? I can’t afford to close longer than a lunch shift and neither can my staff. Please advise??
Hi there. Please make sure the stain you are using is water-based. Epoxy does not adhere well to oil-based stains. Letting the stain fully dry before pouring the epoxy is also very important. Unfortunately, you may not be able to complete this project in one night due to this. The TableTop Epoxy is hard to the touch at about the 24 hour mark. If you are letting customers use the bartop before it's fully cured, there is a chance rings from drinks may form or that is scratches more easily. We advise being very careful for the first week after the pour. For more help with this, give our tech support team a call at 1-800-497-0010. Thanks.
Again, the question begs.... when and where or if your products are available in Hawaii. A state surrounded by water and low availability of quality supplies. Please fill the gaping hole!
Thanks Andy! I have a couple questions (I even watched the video at 1/2 speed trying to figure it out)... Did you sand the inside of the console the same way as the outside? It looks like you're using 6 layers of the 1708 biaxial glass - how thick was the console (and how do you decide exactly how many layers to use? I have a pair of 6" speaker holes in my cockpit seat I'd like to glass up. Last question - what is the blue film you are using at 2:53 when you are fin rolling? Many thanks (again) for the outstanding videos!
Getting ready to do the deck on my Bayliner Capri and I know now with watching you and your tutorials I will have a good outcome . Thanks Andy . Keep em coming .
I'm working on such a tight budget everytime I mess up a batch trying to match the color I'm sweating bullets 😂. Also I have a 19' v hull boat with a 8' beam and I don't know how much paint I need to paint the bottom. Right now I have a quart of white non waxed white gelcoat and a quart of waxed. I'm thinking I need at least one more quart of each to put two full coats on using a roller and brush. 1 coat non waxed one coat waxed. Is that even enough coverage? Or do I need two coats minimum non waxed and one coat waxed?
Hi there. The coverage for our gelcoat is as follows: 12.8 sq. ft/gal @ 1/8" 25.7 sq. ft/gal @ 1/16" 51.3 sq. f/gal @ 1/32" We would recommend giving our tech line a call to help determine how many coats you should apply. The number is 1-800-497-0010.
I am absolutely struggling to match the easiest color to match. I have a 1996 Bayliner trophy with a white hull. I have total boat white gelcoat with a bright yellow dye a buck skin brown dye and black dye. I came pretty close but ended up to yellow on one batch and to dark on another when I tried brown. I am using the mixing stick method you showed. Boy you're not kidding about a little dye goes a long way. I'm going to try using a toothpick to add the dye a tiny bit at a time on the mixing stick.
I treated an outdoor cedar table I built with a couple coats of this danish teak sealer and would like to now put a couple coats of Halcyon Marine Varnish over it. Is this advisable? Both TotalBoat.
Got bless ...watching you like crazy because I need (know how) from you... can't get your experience...but I'm sure now I can handle some of it....working on my 84 Cobia on RU-vid you the best
Have you any experience with dry ice blasting for surface prep / to remove old varnish and dirt. Like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kk0AwfPsnC4.htmlsi=UvOJ78ZehIpszFjj and this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mFkBHXBlmPY.htmlsi=03KgYH-bibi-14Dv
Can this be used to thin your table top epoxy? Your table top epoxy is too thick to level itself out and release bubbles. Can the tabletop and penetrating epoxy be mixed 1:1?
Do NOT mix Penetrating and TableTop epoxy together. If you would like, you can use the Penetrating Epoxy first to seal your wood. Then, you can apply your flood coat of TableTop. With the wood sealed, the TableTop will leave a glossy, bubble-free, finish!
@@TotalBoat I've sealed my wood with dewaxed shellac. I don't need a sealer. The issue is bubbles within the mix, not bubbles coming from the wood. The table top epoxy is too thick to spread and too thick to release its bubbles. All the typical recommendations for shop temp, warm water bath, vacuum pot, torch, heat gun, etc are insufficient to loosen the epoxy enough.
@@rfehr613 We have a 100% satisfaction guaranteed. If you are not satisfied, please give our tech team and call at 1-800-497-0010 and they would be happy to assist you with this.
If our TableTop epoxy is stored in cooler temps, we recommend sticking the bottles in hot water first to heat it up. This will help lower the viscosity and help create the self leveling finish!
Tried that. It doesn't help. Still too thick. In fact, I placed the separate parts into a vacuum pot for 2 hours with the pot on a food warmer. The cups were on blocks, so no direct heating. It was still very thick...too thick to use the total boat spreader and almost too thick to use 1 finger to spread. I just can't win with this stuff. I've tried everything suggested to get this epoxy to work. I always end up with microbubbles and/or too thick of a mix. You even sent me 2 new bottles after I contacted support about the bubbles. I still have issues with the new bottles. BTW, my shop is a constant 71-72°F and 35-40% humidity.
Microballoons help to create a lightweight fairing compound that is easy to sand and shape. The silica adds strength and bonding to the mixture. When combined, it creates a great fairing compound! It's hard to provide exact measurements for each product as it depends on your project. Adding fillers to the epoxy will decrease your work time. Typically, we recommend aiming for a peanut butter consistency for this mixture.
hello I have a question I want to apply epoxy resin on the big mirror. Is it possible that the epoxy resin will separate from the mirror after a while? Does it need to be primed before starting work on the mirror surface?
Why epoxy it’s not compatible whit gelcoat ? Why not use product that the boat was build whit !!!! Like fibreglass whit a polymer resin and then finish whit gelcoat specifically under water line …. !
@@TotalBoat it make the repaire more expensive for that kind of work ! I my self do repair boat for a living and cost effective is big in my line of work specially wen everything is more expensive! I will used epoxy for other projects but never on the outside of boat or under water line ! Tip from a professional 😉
I have to ask about the order of patch pieces, as I've seen it done both ways. In the way that you show, the largest was at the top, so the largest touches the boat and the smaller parts just fill in the concave area. The other way that I've seen it is to put the smallest in first, then work to the larger. This second way has every piece making contact to the original fiberglass. My understanding is that if the inner most piece comes loose, the rest are still adhered. In the "largest on first" method, if the inner piece comes loose, they all are loose. Am I overthinking it (not unusual!) or is the smallest first version more for structural repairs? Love the videos!
I'm a retired aerospace engineer and companies do it both ways. I've read reports supporting each method. Due to the greater area the large first ply has lower inter laminar shear. The second method has a nice progressive failure. They both work if done properly.
Armchair Engineer and Handyman here: My usual patching method is to place the smallest fill pieces first, with larger ones progressively over those. This stabilizes the smaller patch edges with ever-larger patches. This also leaves me with just one edge to flatten/sand/fill/fair. The Peel Ply seems to be a bit of a game changer in the opposite layering technique though as it flattens and fairs the topmost surface automatically.
Thank you for the feedback. We have passed it along to our team. If you are having trouble hearing the video, we recommend turning the caption on to help!
We often use a small oven heated with a lightbulb, seed mat, or heat gun on low to post-cure epoxy nicely. It’s just a warmed-up, controlled box. Getting the ambient temperature in your shop, your small box, or oven above 95 will typically speed up cure times and help with post-curing. Do some tests first but the temperature of the curing area greatly affects time, speed, and curing. We do not recommend other post-curing techniques for DIY and recommend doing tests first.
If I have a river pour style serving board that lives outside, do I apply this over the entire board including the portion that is exposed wood and not coated in epoxy or does this only get applied over the epoxy portion. Obviously I’d have a wood finish already applied to the wood portion of the board.
