So I've been working on a total bathroom remodel. I had to bust up the foundation, plumb, fill in sink holes, re-pour foundation, redo all topside plumbing, electrical, build a tile shower, install sheetrock, tile the floor. I've done everything myself and i'm at mudding the sheetrock. (i'm on the 3rd coat and god I wish I could get the mud consistency he does.)I was told by a sheetrock professional I needed special mold resistant sheetrock after installing it all. After investigating, this is only true if you haven't installed a proper way to remove moisture. I installed a hardcore ceiling vent to pull the moisture out during showers and after almost a year of bare sheetrock and using the shower I haven't had one tiny speck of mold, just bare exposed normal sheetrock. I left it like this to make sure my DIY shower didn't leak and also to test the mold theory. Even after this they still swear that my sheetrock is going to mold and fall off, but i'm confident that removing moisture from hot showers is the number one priority for bathrooms. Trying to protect the bathroom from it helps, but isn't going to be enough without dealing with the moisture itself.
Thanks for the great video. Just made a sliding door for a walk in wardrobe with integrated TV and soundbar. I think I will go with the vinyl corner. That way if it gets scuffed with the walls being white it wont show though so much and paper is just not strong enough.
That's the wrong way to mud drywall trims! You're supposed to use mesh tape or paper joint tape over all drywall trims, this to prevent drywall trims from cracking. 😊
I have a 1953 home with this construction. The big problem I have had to deal with is the top skim coat delaminating. Some of the repairs I used ready mix mud only to find it to completely delaminate a few years later. The latest room I used the powder mud and sealed the edges of the skim coat with watered down glue (thanks to one of your videos) . So far it seems to hold. I would love to see more on how to repair this era, especially matching up the texture. Mine seems to have a sand in it with light swirls. If anyone has any tips please respond. Thanks in advance.
24 yo drywaller here. If you don’t have that tool and want another way, remember how you do screws. Apply that to corners and it goes by really quick👍🏻 obviously don’t take the mud away after you’ve spread it. I’ll smooth it out a little bit. Put the tape in and scrape away. I’ve found this way so so much faster than the first clip shown
Another fake cutting video you cant see because tbe paint is the same colour as the wall. You are not a painter. Dont do paint videos, bud. I get it. Your youtube channel needs content. But stay in your lane.
Hmmm. I don't hate California. I was born and raised here. But I certainly hate the politicians that are absolutely Hell-bent on destroying our lives and country.
It’s not just a California patch as it is done in PA, NJ, NYC, DE & SC. So, it’s just a patch. And to make it invisible you’re going to have to feather it out no less than 12” from center of the patch in all directions.
Great video, thanks! A question, if I may. Ceiling of my bathroom is dry wall and the walls are ceramic tiles. Problem is between dry wall and the wall there is a gap (in the ceiling) that I can't putty/mud in since it will fall off. I think I have to use tape in 45 degrees on both surfaces but I don't want to paint the ceramic tile wall.
I have always used the plastic corners with glue and staples. How do they compare with what you use? Painter by trade but do a fair amount of filling especially repairs
Thanks dog :) I was learning 360 kick flips back in 92 ... seriously - I'm learning from your various techniques similar to that of learning new skateboard tricks - I stopped/started skateboarding a lot over the years and worked my way up to handrails (what I consider the pinnacle of all my street moves - since they are the most dangerous)... but nothing too fancy just going on and off... ✌🏻
What I find helpful is if you're painting over drywall mud, make sure to remove all the dust and thin down your paint a lot as the first coat, more water will help the paint to soak into the mud, thus creating a stronger bond.
I was looking at those darby tools and they're pricey! If you're doing a large job it seems worth it, but I only had to finish a garage so I opted for a 10" knife and a piece of wood which I made into a darby.
Thanks for the info. Gotta ask: Is it slightly convex to help keep the paper’s edge from digging in? I tried another sander about the same size but round and I found it useless because it left so many gouges.
@@vancouvercarpenter Thanks so much for the speedy reply. 👍 I’ll give it a try. BTW, sure wish you worked in Ottawa. No one I’ve found is willing to spend the time to do anything close to your work (even model and lottery show homes look like crap) so I’d rather do it myself. Many thanks for all your help!
I'm gonna try it right now. Not red tape, though. UPDATE: it passed the test with flying colors. But it also reminded me never to forget my knife. Thanks for the tip.
While you are at it show California ceiling,plumbing,electrical,hvac, framing ,and flooring trim, prime paint, siding ,asphalt or concrete driveway,masonry