Mechanical Engineer by profession, Desktop inventor by Hobby. A channel to document and share fun inventions and projects. Come check out the channel and enjoy new content every week! Leave a comment if you have any ideas for inventions you would like to see!
This is all fine and dandy but let me ask this. Why does it seem my Ender 3 choose a different z axis each time I turn on or try to print a different from SD card. Then when I run bed level it is way off then try to print won't stick. Run bed level again and way off but back the other direction. Then print will stick with a 50/50 chance if needing glue stick.
I think that this gives a realistic view of the typical product development cycle. What's somewhat rare is the apology, walking through how the initial failure happened with full disclosure/methodology behind the fix, and then pushing the info out to the community. The only way to avoid this is to product test for 30+ hours for reliable R&D, but this ain't a large corporation like Gantri or EEVE with large budgets.
The blue one that broke, not only had the weak spot, that print looked weak, I understand it has to be lights, but for those aplications, but it should be thicker and almost solid. At least, that's what I found for my designs
Hi Thanks for the wonderful video and design. I was wondering if I printed this mount out, what material should I use if I wanted to print with PET filament from recycled plastic bottles at 260c?
Hello, excellent work, the CR30 was driving me crazy, I knew I had to change it from Bowden to direct, but as they told you, the video on the web is all very out of date, Thanks again for sharing it, I just have to ask you what length of the new screws you put in?
I used some M5x40 screws, 35mm would also work. FYI I found a weak point in my 3D design, so I updated the models today on Printables and Thingiverse with the new version. I wouldn't recommend using the original version if you printed it out. Mine started to crack after 10+ hours.
Sorry to hear that, it's possible you could be having another issue, maybe check all your cable connections. And hopefully it's not a damaged motherboard.
There is a box with a QR code link in my full length video. That QR code will take you to the model in the Bambu handy slicing software. I’m not sure if there is a model only link out there or not
Awesome build dude! Might have to get this one for my old car loving uncle. Since you have an X1, do you have any opinions on X1 vs P1S? I want to upgrade and I wanna see if I can save myself $500
Yea definitely a good gift for car enthusiasts, but they should understand 3D printing isn’t the same durability and perfection of a store bought kit with molded parts. I don’t have much experience with the P1S but I think it’s still a great printer especially for the value. Just missing some features like super high speed, AI detection of prints, auto Timelapse which I love, and some exotic materials printing options. Depends on your needs/ preferences I think
thinking about buying a cr30 for some production items i need to make.currently have a ender 6 and not sure if the cr30 belt drive is still a good printer most content online is old. would you purchase a cr30 today if you had to make the decision again?
That's a great question. Now with the new ease of use standard of Bambu lab printers: slice it and send it with almost no issues, I would not put the CR-30 in that category. The bed adhesion is really good, so I rarely have headaches due to that, but the slicer is buggy and the print quality is not super great. And the user base of CR-30 users is much smaller, so sometimes it's hard to get community help on issues. If you need one for long prints, swords and things like that, it's a decent printer. But a long sword part is still pretty fragile and has a lot of difficult overhangs. The best practice is still cut the sword in half (the long symmetric way) and glue the 2 halves together to get better strength and avoid poor print quality on overhangs. I hope this helps you!
Hi! first of all, thank you for your coverage of the CR-30. Everything online is stuck to 3 years ago and i cannot believe how quiet this printer went on the internet. I fix most of the flaw of my new Cr-30 with your videos! But i went through your video and coudnt find which slicer you are using. Im not sure if creality belt or ideamaker is the most prefer one. Also, if you really suggest one of them, which profil do you use? Thank you and keep your great content (which deserve more view!)
Thanks Jean, glad to see another CR-30 user out there! I generally use Ideamaker, the Creality slicer 4.8.2 that came with the printer is alright when it works, but often times it fails to slice parts. I just use a generic CR-30 profile and sometimes slow the speed down if I need better quality prints.
FYI I found a weak point in this design. If you printed out this direct drive mount previously I recommend re-printing the new model, now updated in the same link. Apologies for any inconveniences!
Thanks for a very comprehensive presentation.I had already printed a couple of these and the one I did laying down was much worse as you described. I printed it lying down because I did not have the thick frame around the perimeter. I'm gonna try printing at vertical next time
yeah... if i do something like this I'll use rockwool.... it's made of molten rocks and i wouldn't have to worry about off gassing of the foam or it melting when doing an extra hot filament type. i'd just kapton tape it to the bottom of the bed.
