One thing I've noticed when these direct drive washers work correctly is that sometimes at the end of neutral drain, the spin clutch engages either loudly or softly. But other times, it doesn't occur at the end of neutral drain at all until the very beginning of spin, which is when you hear that very loud clunk. Either time is fine, but the part when the spin clutch engages at the beginning of spin rather than at the end of neutral drain leads me to believe that the machine is working at its very best.
@tristangardner3889 I fully agree with all you've said. My 1986 Kenmore 60 series was a PRIME example of a machine that you couldn't _possibly_ cause to go into spin prematurely. Even sitting out in the cold shed for 2 years not being touched, first run-up on the suds-return portion of the timer--only needed about 5 seconds of agitation to reset the mechanism for neutral drain, and it wasn't going anywhere by that point, not a chance. That machine must have NEVER been in a cold environment. Once I even got it to neutral drain on low speed! And now that the neutral drain has been replaced in my 92 machine, it works correctly even being ran for only 6 minute washes on low speed to start out with, which is usually what my dad always does his loads on. I think that's partially why it wore out before.
I need the upper rack wheels LOL --- they don't make them anymore -- it still runs - but the wheels are broken if you start selling parts -- please let me know
@TeamBrooksx6 So for the wheels, go to searspartsdirectdotcom and input the model number of your dishwasher. They'll have schematics of all the parts for these machines which are numbered, so you can easily find the corresponding part to that number. I just put mine in and it showed the wheels for it in stock. Otherwise if no luck there, try ebay if you haven't already. Hope you're able to find what you need!
I never knew about breaks on a washing machine until I found interest in these machines. No matter how hard I tried I would not move. Old washing machines are awesome
@billyisthegamemaster6880 They really broke the mold when they got rid of _brakes._ That's how you could get away with not putting a stupid lid lock to do nothing except waste material, space, time, money, etc.
@JoshuaAndMom Yeah this is definitely an early one. This one was made a few years after it's model year and actually updated to have neutral drain in it. You couldn't possibly get this one to slip into spin--it would even neutral drain on low speed!
You are a really good drummer. My mom’s husband (Not Dad) is a good drummer too My family is kinda wired my mom has a husband my dad has a wife my mom and dad have been divorced since 2018 my mom found a boyfriend my dad found a girl from Vietnam 🇻🇳 not important
@billyisthegamemaster6880 If she's still living, what's unnecessary about that? Kidding of course. This is my next-door neighbor's machine. As far as I know, they still use it, and it still works perfectly to this day.
@maureennancoo4304 Sometimes I've heard them sound like that when they spin-drain. One thing I know I've seen while it picks up, as it goes around, the weight of the tub & spin tube puts weight on the clutch, so as it's slowly picking up, the band lining in the clutch may be scraping "in time" so that it sounds rhythmic like that.
I hope one day (relatively soon) I can find a refurbished belt drive like this one. My only concern is rust and lack of available parts these days. I can't wait to see this up and running.
@@MatthewJames-st5wv You'll find one soon enough. Depending on what it needs, you should have other collectors who sell parts to source from for a long time.
@@MatthewJames-st5wv the only parts you’ll need is a bearing & seal kit, a spare pump, wig wag assembly & plungers, tub seal, a few other odds and ends. Belt drives actually are more reliable since there isn’t the pesky neutral drain pack that can fail.
All the best 👍! If you think the DD made cool drain pump sounds, you will REALLY enjoy a belt drive's drain out and cavitation sounds. Probably the most mechanically musical washing machines the USA ever produced.
So far, everything sounds healthy even though it hasn’t been used in awhile. The pump that’s on this is a 3 port pump, just the third port for the lint filter has been blocked off since this doesn’t have the manual clean filter on it I believe.
@@lizboz believe it also has the comb type of lint filter under the inner tub. Unfortunately, self cleaning lint filters don’t work all that well, seems like a manual clean filter works better since it filters out everything.
@seana806 Those self-cleaning filters seem to be good for only one thing; rust promoters. Depending on how you use the machine, if you only ever wash in cold, only liquid detergent, maybe even RIDONCULOUS amounts of fabric softener per load, and never run cleaner through it, you'll get more of that buildup over time.
@@lizboz despite the marketing, detergents don’t work that well in cold water. Doesn’t allow them to work at their fullest potential, will lead to dissatisfactory results. This is why I usually wash mainly with warm water, usually rinse in warm but since the ambient temperature of the cold water has been warmer with the heat waves, been rinsing in cold. Not very often I rinse or wash in cold, but usually is done in the warmer months. As soon as it cools down in the fall and winter, will either be a hot or warm wash, followed by a warm rinse. As for fabric softener, don’t really use very much especially with towels since it will not allow them to be very absorbent. If you get a tub ring from a donor machine with the manual clean lint filter, just have to remove the rubber plug from the third port, run a vinyl hose to the lint filter and you’ll be in business.
@seana806 That's why machines had warm rinses back in the days. They actually cared about you keeping your washer running for as long as was possible. Not today. I hear it squawked time and again from these washing machine warriors that you shouldn't use fabric softener because it will gunk up your machine. For crying out loud, do what you want and be done with it. Run the occasional maintenance cleaner cycles through it (once a month is best) and you'll be fine. That's good to know that the waterfall is easy to source and install on these. That might be a future modification for this machine that I'll put in the cards.
@vincenguyen1 Won't be buying anymore to collect for a while now. Just taking in whatever free machines I come across, fixing them up and reselling them. Basically flipping older washers, like xjoe81x is trying to do.
Very nice. I am seeking the same machine. I thought I remembered you posting something about this on AW. If I recall correctly you mentioned something about a leak? Did that get fixed?
@MatthewJames-st5wv Hope you find yours! Yes, stay tuned for later videos on this where that is addressed. Haven't done anything to fix it as of yet, however when I get the time to focus on that, videos on that will be recorded.
Congratulations and welcome to the belt drive Kenmore/Whirlpool owners club. Your machine appears to have been manufactured in March of 1983. I'll be interested to see how the wash cycle compares to my 1968 Kenmore. I already suspect that the number of spray rinses will have been cut back from the five for each spin cycle my machine does.
@tallboyyyy Thanks man! I'm VERY happy to now own one. And the first one I've ever actually seen in person at that! Yes, 1983 would be the correct year, although it's an 82 model year. I've ran some cycles through it just to see it go. I believe it does still do the five sprays for each spin. My only wish is that it had the "waterfall" circulating feature while it's washing, but otherwise, it's absolutely awesome through and through. Definitely stay tubed for cycle videos on this one.
@@tallboyyyy the later Whirlpool/Kenmores did about 3 spray rinses on the first and final spin. My Whirlpool from 1963 would do 4 spray rinses on each spin (delicate and wash n wear would only do 4 spray rinses, not the 8 in total). The Whirlpool/Kenmore belt drives would do 4 spray rinses in the first spin, 2 on the final spin, why they did that I don’t really know, but I suspect they added more spray rinses on the later models to help rinse things away a little better. The later belt drives only did a total of 6 spray rinses, probably reduced the spray rinses to either cut back on water, or to make sure the pump could pump out all the water in time.
Now, that’s a real Whirlpool/Kenmore washer! Will for sure rinse better then any machine you have ever owned. Btw, I highly suggest to not use detergents with phosphates and you may have seen my posts about how my friend Tyler in NC who had a friend who put a razor blade in a jar one with phosphate detergent and the other with non-phosphate detergent, the phosphate detergent began to attack and pit the razor blade. Also not good for any of the rubber seals or hoses. This is why I’ll only be using Tide powdered detergent in my Whirlpool for now on. Another thing too, these belt drives literally use the same center post seals and tub seal as the direct drives, even the center post bearings as the same as the direct drives as well.
@seana806 That's good to know that the seals are the same. Makes it a little easier to keep these going. The next thing is the mounts for the tub to the baseplate.
Unfortunately this is a very common problem with these machines, however it's not very likely to affect either the motor or the transmission as the spin clutch is what slips as the basket picks up speed. The machine certainly will go through clutches like crazy if it's not neutral draining. I always recommend replacing the oil during this process because it can thicken with age which will hinder operation. The spin gear is a crucial component of the mechanism, with the latch grabbing the cam underneath to prevent the spin pawl from engaging. If the button on the gear is worn out, preventing the reset, then it will slip into spin guaranteed.
The transmissions in the belt drives almost never needed to be opened up, only time they would need to be cracked open is if the spring broke which puts pressure on the shifter fork assembly, basically that drops down and meshes with the agitator shaft which is what engages agitation. Believe I explained this 3 years ago explaining on how the Whirlpool belt drive transmission works. Not many parts inside the belt drive transmissions since there’s a total of 7 to 9 parts inside total.
These didn't need it much either. They do now because parts have cheapened up since the discontinuation of them. The belt drives never really had transmission issues to speak of, it usually is the wig-wag that goes first, but that's on top where you can actually get to it right then and there.
@@lizboz the older style of wig wag aka control magnet assembly as quite a bit more substantial than the ones used after 1965/1966. In the one repair manual I have from 1962, it shows you can rebuild those older control magnet assemblies. Even the older 4 port pumps can be disassembled and rebuilt as well.
@@lizboz before consumerism and planned obsolescence began to run amok. This may be slightly off the tracks, but there are some current production vehicles which literally have headlights that cost over $1000+ a piece, it seems as though everything I predicted 10 years ago is slowly but surely coming true. It seems as though people don’t realize until it’s too late.
Very nicely detailed…For oil I used a 90 weight synthetic gear oil made for marine outboard lower drive units. Cheaper and better than the Whirlpool branded oil.
Thanks! Yeah the _RIGHT way_ to do it would be OEM, but when you're like me, you'll always find other alternatives that work just as well, if not even better than the original factory spec stuff. Luckily I did end up finding a different brand oil that works as well AND doesn't stink anymore when you run it! So that's what's in there now. And yes, this is the 92 Kenmore.
Very informative video! It is however important to note that if you have a direct drive with a perforated ring around the rim, it is designed to spin during pump-out. These units were manufactured between 1981-1985
