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Thanks for the follow-up video. I just got my quick jacks and set them up according to the QJ video instructions provided by QJ. I have not lifted a vehicle yet because one quick jack seems to lock in place faster (1 second) before the other one. Is this common or have you had this issue? I bleed the system and will bleed it one more time in the morning. I’m wondering if it is because there is no weight on them and going back to your theory in another video of yours where the quick jack dropped on one side of your Audi. Seems yours did not lift evenly in that video where one side locked and the other did not. Did you bleed them again?
Congrats on picking up a set of QJs! QJ actually recommends that you bled the system without any weight on them so you did do it correctly. It's also common when first starting out that the lifts do not engage at the same time. I would go through the entire process one more time for good measures. I also recommend using jack stands underneath you vehicle just to be safe.
Had mine for 3 years now and they have been working fine with hundreds of lifts. I had ONE mishap (my fault) when I first got them, I didn't seal the quick connects correctly with thread sealer and I had a leak on one side and my care did this very same thing. One side of my car lowered and that same side had a hydraulic fluid on the floor. Since I fixed my error back then these things have been rock solid.
Hi Peter, I wanna do this on my Porsche997.1 but I’m a bit confused on the oicture that u attached. The ine on the left shows a black/grey diode but on the one with your hand in it shows a blue retifier. So which one exactly did you used. Tq.
Oh u didn’t used the diode but opted for the rectifier, any reason. Another thing, how did u managed to pushed through the rectifier legs into those pins(red/yellow & yellow/white) the space is very tight..
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic there’s higher percentage of people who don’t want to drive the Batmobile and want that conventional steering wheel which will obscure that screen unless it’s moved to the perfect position and height.
Thanks for the video. I just purchase a refurbed 5000TL lift direct off their website. I have not yet ran it because: It arrived missing one of the long hoses (as well as the quick release fittings for each end of that), as well as only gave me 2 short blocks (not 4). I have a Porsche Cayman S so I'm almost sure I need those short blocks. The hoses I did receive all had the quick-release ends already attached, I believe the liquid thread sealer was used. So far emailed and sent pics to the company, nothing back yet but it's the first day of a workweek... I saved a little on my lift but hope it will eventually be okay. Any other tips you have would be much appreciated!! Thanks, Madison in Littleton CO. -m
Thanks for stopping by and checking out my video. The 5000TL will have no issues with the Cayman. I would though, recommend that you use riser ramps to get the Cayman up higher. This will allow the QJ to have better lifting power. From a complete horizontal position, the QJ is weak and may have trouble lifting. Make sure you also have all the required parts!
There is no way the closed loop system would allow itself to lower unless it was losing fluid. Same thing happened to me, I had a puddle by the pump from one of the hoses which I didn't place the thread sealer on correctly. Since that day I fixed the leak and have had this jack for over 3 year with hundred of lifts with ZERO problem.
Saw your video just before setting up my 7000TL. Thank YOU. Those jacks are HEAVY. I also have them hanging on a wall, but this idea had me running to HarborFreight to pick up these Ball bearings. Truly a genius hack, thank you!
Hello Peter, Question about using the rubber blocks on pinch welds: do you have any problems with cracking, general durability or safety precautions? Thanks for the information.
Silly question but does anyone have the approximate dimensions needed for the small 5/8" wood block for the 1" caster mount? And if so, do you think Home Depot or Lowe's would have scrap 5/8" plywood lying around? Curious where people have sourced theirs, since I am not at all a woodworker and don't have a table saw, etc. just to cut these small little pieces. Just need to get the rear 1" ball mounted!!
As I understand it, for AC charging, a Tesla EVSE uses the exactly the same SAE J1772 control pilot signaling protocol - the only difference between the two standards is the shape of the plug - that's all! The manufacturers of Tesla (now "NAS") to J-1772 ("J-plug) adapters apparently don't want you to know this - because making an adapter yourself is a very easy DIY job if you can find the parts - a female Tesla receptacle, a male J-plug and a short piece of 5 conductor EVE charging cable!
I am at a crossroad of which type of lift to purchase and hope you can point me in the right direction. I am comparing the QJ 7000 and the Vevor 7000. I have not found a good comparison on each. Can you give any words of wisdom on Vevor?
Thanks for asking my option on both DIY home lifts. I cannot say that I've had experience with the Vevor, but have thoroughly researched that unit. The QJ as you know, has been around for years and I have proven it as a workhorse. It's sturdy, portable, and provides a decent level of safety (as long it it's in the locked position). The Vevor device seems to be a copy of the QJ's design. It does seem to be built with safety in mind and is also robust. What I do like about the Vevor over the QJ, is how flexible it is in accommodating multiple sized vehicle lengths. You can adjust the lifting spread length by up to 11". Had this lift come out years ago, I probably would have purchased it. Having that said, it's a tough call...you might also factor in pricing as the Vevor is much cheaper than the QJ's 7K lift set up. Good luck with your choice; I personally think both lifts are good.
Trust me, I have explored many different avenues for lifts, which include mid-rise and 2 post lifts. However, cost, concrete strength, and space are huge limitations for me.
Thank you for this request...you and several others asked the same thing. I ended up making a follow-up video to show it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B9alEh1dakM.html
After buying it and using it two months, it is looping non stop the introduction video. Anybody else the same problem? What i've tried, i've removed it completly and put it back in. I resetted it.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic I tried shifting the engine, but it doesnt create enough to access the corner 10mm bolt. I got a 10mm wrench in there but not enough to rotate the wrench. You need to unbolt the transmission mount and jack the trans up a little to make space.
I've watched a lot of QJ videos. Without fail the problems always stem from people not reading and following the instructions. Do not double stack the blocks and always make sure the safety locks are engaged. Make sure the correct air pressure is in the canisters. Had mine for over 5 years and never had an issue.
Thank you for your input. In most cases, you're correct. Most owners have not or will not read the user's guide. I personally have used the QJ over 400+ times and know the bleeding process and use very well. It so happened that I discovered a flaw within the system that QJ does not admit to.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic In over 40 years of working in the automotive industry I've never come across a lift system that relies on hydraulic pressure rather than safety locks to hold the vehicle in place. Doesn't matter if hydraulic fluid leaks back or not if the safety locks are in place.
@@ErewhonGB I agree, safety locks are called that for the exact reason. My point was to show users that aside from the safety locks, there are no additional safeguards. QJ should have developed anti-bleed back valves in the hydraulic system to provide this type of issue, SHOULD one side of the lift does not engage.
I'm sorry....you and hundreds of other viewers complained so I made a following up video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B9alEh1dakM.html
I just had this happened to me yesterday. The side lock bar was not releasing to lock, had to use wd40 to loose them up so the metal and the black lock bars release from each other. Freaking scary moment. Thank God bless no damage to the car.
After install the soft closed, does it change the configuration of the jump leads to open the frunk with the 9 volts battery in case when the battery goes bad ?
