Bro you have no idea how much this video helped out lmao , I just got my UDR preowned and it needs some work and I was going to replace the driveshaft and I stripped the bolt towards the output shaft on the drive shaft and I was getting ready to tear down the whole transmission to get to that thing, I didn’t realize that it was one of those slip in gears things thanks man !
I dyed my mini revo chassis black and want to dye the e-revo chassis as well but can't find a pot big enough for it ;o]] that was the only reason I came to watch to see what you put it into ;o]
I use a wood burning iron, they are a little hotter that a soldering iron and you won't damage your plastic. It takes a couple of minutes but works really well.
you spend so much money on you 5t and look very much stock yet u cant by a lil servo extender to secure ur servo u need to adjust the end point on you controler so the servo stop that noice an see if can find a switchblade kill switch there better than that u using
I know this is an old video, but I just used it to pull out the front diff on my new Infraction 6s and change the fluid weight. The Infraction is so much harder to get to the diffs than a Kraton, and this video was a great help. Thanks for the detailed video.
good video but the link you keep calling a "drag link" is in reality the "panhard bar" ... the drag link is the long link that connects both front tires together.
Hay Alex can you use the old Battery Contactors off the Stock Traxxis ESC with and solder them to the Hobbywing ESC so you can still use Traxxis Batteries ???
I would recommend removing the center driveline cover off and make sure that the driveline is not damaged if it looks OK I would definitely check out the rear differential
What do you think about the factory assembly of this car? Mine was terrible. I disassembled everything, lots of screws were ridiculously stuck with thread locker, whereas others were completely loose. The rear axle pin was almost falling, like half thread out. Diffs almost empty too.
we know they hit, if you read the email or instructions for them you will know that you have to swap one of the shims from the rear to the front on the upper pin and place the strut at its highest position. it clears and you ONLY use these arms if you are going for extreme terrain and you need BOTH the height at maximum and also a bit more caster. OTHERWISE the OEM arms are fine. I had the same WTF moment but i contacted them and this is covered on or was covered at once time somewhere on there website in a FAQ or in a description. BUT they do work with just a tiny bit of changing things.
Thanks for the info when u say running at the highest point suspension, you think the stronger springs from Hot racing would be okay at a decent setting when running rpm arms too?
@@yaboi5686 Its fairly well known that spring upgrades are pointless. Good fluid and seals are all that is necessary, you can go a bit more on spring stiffeness but there is really no point but the bling factor and stance, if you want to go fast, you want the most travel
Why is 20 million not a good idea just put 20 mil in my front diff and if I can get this damn stripped screw out I was planning on putting 20mil in the center as well
