Your Guide to Alaska culture,places and things to do. Covering the North Slope and soon to come just about every city, village and community here in Alaska
I have done this project for an old gal on a limited budget. Sharkbite fittings were what she had. The entire back of the shower has a removable panel.. I would never use sharkbite bite fittings behind an enclosed wall.
Thanks for this video. My bro-in-law was flummoxed when a professional electrician installed one of these to control an outdoor fountain. After the guy left he discovered what he thought was the switch to control the fountain did not shut off the fountain. He still had the packing and instructions so he opened the box and spent at least an hour trying to figure out how to make the switch control the fountain. Then I found this. He watched it a couple of times and I finally convinced him that it was demonstrating that the switch is entirely separate from the plug wiring and needs to be wired as if it was just a separate switch, which is what this video shows, but not what most people would expect from that sort of unit.
The Magnesium rod I believe comes standard with all water heaters, Do a google search about Aluminum/Zinc anode rods as they don't interact with the Hydrogen Sulfide in the water
@YourAlaskaGuide Thank you for the info. Never looked into it but here in Maine we see this happen a lot and most don't realize how a simple yearly drain/flush will help the life of the heater👍🏼
why did you change the resistive electric heater they tend not to go bad compared to other components. Did you check the resistance with a multimeter or if it was drawing any amp draw when the unit was running? Was both of the fusible links good or melted? If they were melted you may have air flow problems. Your filter may be dirty. If so you may run into the same problem of no heat sooner or later. The way you have your two heat sequencers on the left not secured properly is unsafe. With the blower motor running it will create some vibrations is unlikely but with time the heat sequencers may move and start rubbing on the wall and grounding out your conductors. Same with the transformer not being screw mounted is unsafe. Did you check the run cap mfd on the blower motor? I have seen in the field run caps that fail and the blower motor would run but at a slower speed.
It was 23 years old. There were several fried jumper wires on the side of the heater base along with high limit switches. It cost me under $200 in parts for piece of mind . The thing is basically a giant toaster with a blower motor running air through the coils. I just installed a new wood burning stove which will be the primary heat source. The house is only 900 Square feet.
For the electrical side, this tub calls for one 20amp GFCI and one 15amp GFCI to be installed. The 15amp circuit is for the actual tub motor, and the 20amp is for the heater. In your video it appears as though you ran 2 15amp circuits (looking at the wire) as both cables are white (15amp 14/2 Romex).
I’m actually looking into getting this tub so i have the installation instructions pulled up. I dunno if they updated the model or something but as far as I can tell a dedicated 15A circuit is sufficient for each. Not a 20 for the heater as you are saying.
@@SuperGalacticus I’m quoting the manual that came with my tub (same exact model) that I purchased on 11/24/23. While I agree that for a 12amp heating element a 15amp circuit should be fine, at initial startup it may draw some extra current hence their manual stating to use a 20amp circuit.
If you go to the model American Standard 2425 at Home Depots website, they give the instructions. Page 12 of 17 says 15 amp dedicated GFCI for the whirlpool and Optional heater requires a separate 15 amp maximum GFCI circuit
@@YourAlaskaGuide interesting. My paper version that came with the tub calls for a 20amp circuit for the heater and a 15amp circuit for the tub motor. I just purchased mine last week…
Hi - I bought this GFCI a few days ago and had the EXACT same problem as alot of people on this string are commenting. I have rewired 2 houses in my life, I am not an electrician, but the houses haven't burned down yet..... I had them blessed afterwards by an electrician who did the panel replacement and he asked me if I was interested in working for him... So I kinda know what I am doing. Our Alaska Guide friend is spot on, the instructions SUCK. If you are not an electrician, and I am not, they are confusing. So I went and purchased a Leviton GFSW1-W off of Amazon. I do NOT work for Leviton. Got it in a day and what do ya know, the instructions actually detail AND with schematics that tell you EXACTLY where to run the switch wires to. If you are having problems with the SGFS15-M model, dump it and get the one from Leviton. I did it in about 15 minutes....the other one I was at hour 2 and then saif "F - it"......
@@YourAlaskaGuide Thanks for your reply! Do you mind sharing how much they charged you round trip ? Also Did you hike or Kayak from the cabin to get to the fish weir/ladder to see the bears there ? How far/tough was it ? Thanks again!
@@happy1wandering Price will depend on the size of the plane. The size of the plane depends on the weight you fly in with. I believe I paid 2k for 1200lbs as I was on a 2 week bear hunt. I took a raft, motor, fuel, food and gear for 2 people. Keep in mind this is about a 1 hour flight out of Kodiak. The pilot must fly you in and fly back and then when your ready to be picked up of course fly out and fly you back. You will need a Satellite phone. Weather can change quickly and your scheduled pick up and even fly out times can be delayed. You can walk to the fish ladder. Bears however can be anywhere and you MUST take protection. This is an ADVANCED trip. I suggest doing ALOT of research and planning. I have been here 3 times. Weather can play a huge part. It is a wonderful place however if your prepared.
@@happy1wandering I can not stress safety and doing your research. I saw bears each time I went and never visited the ladder. I went both Spring and Fall. I was after only the giant 10 foot plus bears of which I never took one as I could not get close enough. Other smaller bears( 9' and under) I got within 50 foot. The bears I was after were the non hibernating cub killers. They are the number 1 killer of Cubs as they will dig up a den of a hibernating sow to kill and eat the Cubs. I am a very experienced outdoorsman and would never venture out here without a firearm. Again I can not stress safety and research for flying into this area. If you have never camped remote in the wilderness, have basic survival skills, I would look into a guided trip .
@@YourAlaskaGuide Thanks a million for such valuable tips! Subscribed!! I didn't find much info online about the cabins at Kodiak. Do you have a blog or something where you share your trip experiences ? Any other non-touristy cabins you recommend in Kodiak / Alaska in general for seclusion, nice scenery/photography and close to prime bear watching areas ? Lastly, regarding south frazier lake cabin, on recreation.gov, they mentioned "Accessing Dog Salmon: it is advisable to have a small inflatable raft or kayaks to access the lake outlet from the cabin. The alternative requires a 2 mile walk around the lake's shore and wading across Dog Salmon Creek in order to access the walking trail at the outlet". Did you think it's worth getting an inflatable Kayak ? How tough you think the hike is (given ill be carrying tripod/filming gear) ? Thanks again!
Thanks, I have a similar unit from a different company and I've read the instructions 3x over and they never explain what those two wires are for. was so confused. I assume if you don't use those wires, you can have the switch turn off the outlet with the lights in that case?
Thanks for this video. And thanks Eaton, IKEA furniture has better instructions. My interpretation was that the switched load went black and white to either switch wires on the GFCI. I couldn’t figure out why the switch wouldn’t run the lights. I piggybacked one black “switch output” wire to my black LINE; then my switched loads white to the white LINE and the black of my switched load to the second “switch output” wire. Now it works.
Let’s start from the top… So you have the hot/black wire, neutral/white and ground. You piggy backed the black/hot wire to create 2 hot leads, where did you tie these into? You have the remaining neutral/white where did you tie that into on the unit? Lastly did you ground the receptacle?
Spent 10 years working for oil well services. We did jobs on drilling rigs, fracking, Nitrogen oil well stimulation, cement casing and I was lucky to work on a platform, Glomar Marine and Exxon on a cement base to storage that held a million gallons of diesel February 1984. Oh yeah, Prudhoe Bay General Store and it seems they have moved over the last 30 years. General Store was originally named Childs trading post which was the postal service, roustabouts, equipment from toilet plunger to oil well tools. As being the only to buy personal ideas (blow up doll, I kid you not, pornography, candy, chip and sodas. I brought Native crafts.
Thank you. I read the directions, went to the manufacturers website, and spent over an hour trying to figure it out. Your 1 minute video solved my issue almost immediately
That is indeed one cool job, sorry to hear age is taking its toll on you. If I had to give some advice that I got from my dear grandfather, is that to not stop being active even when you retire, that's what will age you even faster, and cause numerous health issues down the line. I met this one fellow about a week or so ago that was in his 80's, and he was still able to work, like putting up fences on his farm, digging holes for the posts, ect. Genetics will have a bit to do with it, but still, keep active, that's one of the most important parts of it.
Thanks man! Spent 2 hours trying to figure this out then watched your video and got it in 2 minutes. For the people commenting they still don’t know what to do, here’s what I did: note that I’m note an electrician and not suggesting you do the same thing. Just stating what I did.... split the black power in like he did so you have 2 wires. Connect one to the outlet like you normally would, to the brass screw. Then connect the other wire that’s split from the black power in to one of those switch wires. I connected it to the one on the same side as the brass. Then take the white wire coming in with the hot black power wire and connect that to the light fixture white wire and from that connection connect to the outlet on the silver screw. Finally connect the black wire of the figure to the other switch wire. Out meet works even when switch is off, switch works! Hope this helps. Thanks again man!
Thanks, your description worked for me. I think I still put 3 man-hours into the project. 🙄 Where is your Master Electrician daughter when you need her? Not here. 😀
Many thanks for sharing! Do you have a second? I shared a new song of mine on my channel. As a fellow music fan, I'd love if you would take a listen. I hope you enjoy :)
I used the switch to power a bath fan. One of the switch wires got pigtailed to the hot (line) terminal of gfi. The other switch wire connected to black wire of the fan line. The white of the fan also was pigtailed to the common of gfi (line) terminal. Load terminals of gfi were not used. And of course the grounds were all connected.
Sorry for the confusion,being a lineman for over 40 years, I guess I did not explain it for the novice properly. The easiest way to look at this is 2 different devices. One is a wall switch the other is an electrical outlet, the exception being the switch has the wires to pigtail already installed.
Hello how are you? I have 3 wires 1 control de light fixture and 1 hot and 1 neutral how can I make it work I tried so many times I could not get it to work thanks in advanced
I need to use the load part of this device also. I am using the switch for the bathroom fan. The white wire of the fan connects to neutral load side and black wire of fan connects to one of black switch wires and hot to other black switch wire coming out of device?
