I just ordered a tillotson 212e and a vm22 carb with 90degree intake tube filter and jet kit plan on billet flywheel billet rod. Building a trail bike with mega moto 212. Any cam, coil recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Very nice build
From what it sounds like, a .265 cam like the GPS Hot 265 or the Banzai 265 would work well. They make good power and idle great. Same goes for the Isky Black Mamba or Black Mamba Jr. (smallenginecams.com). They will all work well with 26 pound springs and you won't have coil bind issues, even at the stock installed spring height. You also won't have valve to piston clearance problems and they are easy on the rest of the valvetrain parts. This means you likely won't have to do any modifications or machine work and you'll have a very reliable engine. The stock coil will work just fine. I like to change out the wire and boot but that isn't mandatory.
@@RedG-s4v Absolutely and I highly recommend it. Any aftermarket non-hemi head will bolt right on. You just need new rocker arms and shorter pushrods. I’d start with 5.26” pushrods for most applications then size up or down if you need to.
@@iceyl209 I doubt it. At least not easily. The blocks are completely different. You could probably figure out a way to make it work. Honestly though, I really dislike stock tanks. They don’t flow well.
can you please reccomend a ballpark jetting for a .330 lift 108 lsa small engines cam, 58mm stroker kit and about 27 degrees timing, 27mm intake valve and 28mm pwk carb
@@WalkerSmallEnginePerformance I recently upgraded my piston, rod, cam, springs, and flywheel. Whenever I start it up it’s just over heats, the head and valve cover gets to hot. And exhaust gets smoking hot, idk if it normal or not, I’ve already vented the block but it didn’t help
Makes me kinda glad that I only use my Predator 212 non hemi for my tiller and it's 100% stock. I've got a Ducar 212 on my pressure washer and I was under the impression they where the same. Could you do a video about adding a throttle lever onto a ducar engine? I'd like to add a throttle lever like the predator has stock onto my pressure washer (ducar) that's got a fixed throttle position. I haven't done much work like this to these engines besides swapping carburetors and oil changes.
Hi there, quick question. when upgrading piston, rods, springs, why does it keep overheating blowing head gaskets? What can I do difrent if you don't mind helping me out.
Well, you're making more power and putting more energy into it. This results in more heat, cylinder pressure, etc. The result can more broken stuff. I would look at your compression ratio though. Too much cylinder pressure and you can blow head gaskets. Also, make sure you are using an upgraded fastener for the cylinder head such as ARP bolts, quality studs, etc. Make sure the fasteners are the correct length so that they do not bottom out and that they supply ample clamping force. Torque them to 20-25 ft/pounds. You are also producing a lot more crankcase pressure so proper venting is crucial to avoid blown side cover gaskets, leaking crank seals and blown head gaskets near the oil passage and pushrod areas. You can also o-ring the head or block. This is a groove cut that accepts a stainless steel or copper wire. It locks the head gasket into place really well compared to the stock setup.
@@adanarellano8588 cars and cameras, also try milling your cylinder head 0.005 and block surface 0.005, get a 0.045 fire ring head gasket and then use the knowledge he replied to you
Ty. I had a new 26mm laying around and can't get it running good no matter what. I ordered a 24mm to see what happens. Mild 224, flat top, 265 cam etc.
Yeah, my personal 236 is 12.5ish to 1 and it’s not bad. They are usually fine with the compression release on the cam. Intake valve closing point really makes a difference too. Really changes the dynamic compression.
Great channel I actually have a question I have a duromax 208 in need of a crankshaft which one is best the clone crank or the oem honda and or a pre clearanced one I seen on OMB warehouse for 80 bucks with a rod should I get that orrr?
@WalkerSmallEnginePerformance rcg racing has vids but he don't answer comments if u familiar but I guess from his findings it's a ducar rod flat top piston ect he dosent say nothing about the crank tho nobody really has vids on which crank is compatible I now there's stroker cranks but that's a whole other ballgame
@@SoLoCruizer He has a a huge number of followers and comments. He does respond but he cannot get to them all or he’d have no time to do anything else. I’m fairly certain a standard clone crank for a Ducar/Tillotson would work fine. That way you can use something like an ARC 6279 rod and 6619 flywheel. OMB, NR Racing, EC Carbs, they all have some for a good price.
@WalkerSmallEnginePerformance yeah usually small tubers like myself say that alot I bet I just wanna get this duromax up n going so I don't ruined my ducar been going 3 years strong good engine frfr
Funny you mention this. Yesterday I did a riding trip. Rode very dusty single lane gravel roads. One bike had the stock airbox and filter and the other a VM22 clone with the foam type filter. Hopefully the KN filter oil helped.
I like the torque then mark it thing. I made the mistake of tightening my flywheel down with a ratchet then going to bed. The next day I continued assembly and did not torque the flywheel nut. Ran fine on first start but it spun the flywheel when I turned it off. Didn't ruin the crank and I was able to clean up the flywheel and run it without a key. I shouldn't have used a key in the first place.
I’m one of the guys that bought all the said off the shelf go fast parts and slammed the engine together. The last 212 build sheet: New Predator 212 block New 14cc head (What its advertised at I didn’t check) New .550 flat top piston ARC +20 rod .010 Head gasket 56mm crank (Stock 212) 308 cam I was told my head gasket should be thicker and I was sent a copper gasket (Don’t remember the thickness). The engine I named the Monster 212 ran great and was really too much power for my old butt to ride. 😂 It seemed to pullover nice, it didn’t really kick back. I would love to do the math like you showed to really know if all the parts work in harmony. Fantastic video taught me a lot. Now I want to build another engine and use some of the new found knowledge. Thanks for sharing!!
@@Curt-q4w That one isn’t for sale, I built it for me. Something comparable would be $1800-ish for parts and labor. Everything in that engine is the best available.
@@WalkerSmallEnginePerformance totally understandable bro looking to beat up the competition here in Detroit want to use a outside builder would love to connect with you
@@DIYWilly Dimensions and placement of things. I'd like it taller so I don't have to bend down or sit as much. I have a bar right in the way making it impossible to mount an engine with a stock gas tank. I also have it on 1/2" rubber pads now and it still vibrates around on the concrete. Next time I would make it heavier and maybe use some air filled tires. That would hopefully keep it still and make it easier to move around. If I had room, I'd just get some anchors and bolt it down.
@@WalkerSmallEnginePerformance I was thinking of one that I could slip into my engine stand. The engine stand is heavy and on wheels but only three. It would also be easy to remove when I needed to put a larger engine on the stand. I don’t know just a thought right now.
Maybe somebody there can help me out I’ve got a predator to 12 after bark through the carburetor. I’ve adjusted the lash on how many times the flywheel key is good but I just keep getting that after popping the carburetor cause someone told me what to do.
When does it pop through the carb? All the time? On deceleration? On acceleration? You could have a fuel mixture problem due to jetting or some other problem. Could also be a bad intake valve.
I’ve taken it to 65. That’s plenty for me. I have people who depend on me so I need to remain in one piece. It has a lot more in it. I figure 80 with the current gearing.
@@hugato2002 You’re right. I was thinking of the 240RS complete engine. The short block is still a really good deal and you know all the parts will fit and work together.
I also failed to mention that the camshaft plays a role. I am using a fairly short duration camshaft without much valve overlap in this project since it is intended to be more of a torquey street engine. This impacts the dynamic compression (when the engine is running). What I show in the video is static compression based solely on dimensions without taking into account the camshaft. If this engine had a camshaft with more duration and overlap, it may run just fine on pump gas with the 18cc head. This just further illustrates my point that you can't just go throwing parts together without a thorough understanding of how they actually work in relationship to one another.
