I feel somewhat responsible for the making of this video, and Adam hasn’t even touched my bolts yet. Time will tell, but first, the front bumper and winch…then we update the suspension.
Freaking Toyotas, lol. I have a 13 4runner that I'm planning on lifting 2", I figured this would be the case so I snagged a set of Superpros during their Black Friday sale. Do you recommend the gusseted cam tabs as well?
if your doing anything beyond mild overlanding or running 285+ tires . yes i would recomend it. i think im going to do a separate video on the taco tabs and the benefits of that. also important info lol.
@@BUILTEAST thanks for the info. I think I may end up falling into that range, so better safe than sorry I guess, haha. I'm semi-local to you, I'll have to eventually reach out for the install.
Hey do you guys do reagearing on Jeeps.. I have a Gladiator and Im going with either 35s or 37s. What gear company do you use ? I have M210 and M220 dana 44s axels. If you do, can you give me an estimate ?
yo! absolutely we do. we like Yukon / standard for most applications. nitro is pretty good to work with as well. give me a ring or shoot me a text and ill build up a quote for you! 413-204-7956
You aren't kidding about how difficult the hydronic heater fasteners on can be to remove. I've serviced mine three times now and each time had to allow lots of time for PB Blaster to do its work before some of the bolts would come out. I've seen some boxed versions of the Espar hydronic heaters which better protects the heater itself from the elements, but that isn't a common item. As bad as the heater enclosure hardware can be, the worst is removing the screen around the glow pin, especially if the screen has been choked with carbon. Removing the glow pin itself makes it easier to push the screen out, but the glow pin can be impossible to remove unless you have a tool for releasing the pins from the wire connector block. Nice upgrades on that original year Revel.
For those who don't have the spacer conversion kit (by AO or others) to convert their hubs from lug bolts to studs and lug nuts, I highly recommend getting a set of wheel hanger stud pilot pins. It makes changing a wheel so much easier as it gives you something to hang your wheel on while you thread your lug bolts to your hub. They come in different sizes/threads so just ensure you get what you need for your vehicle. I keep mine with my tire changing kit so I always have them with me.
Great video enjoyed. I'm pretty sure I met you at the show. I definitely might have gotten your rig in my video as well. Take care we'll see you next year
I’ll be curious to hear how the addition of the power control impacts your fuel mileage. I was looking at the offerings by DTE to eek out a bit more performance for when I’m pushing my heavy van over higher altitude passes. Not sure I’d be willing to trade much fuel economy away to get the extra hp though as I’m not towing and typically only wish I had more power in the steeper climbs.
I'm glad you mentioned how critical it is to go over your off road vehicle periodically to check your fasteners for tightness. It was one of those good habits I learned in the military when we'd PMCS our trucks, especially following a trip to the field. We'd almost always find loose lug nuts. When I check my van I almost always find something that needs tightening. Make sure you bring a torque wrench with you so you can tighten nuts to spec for those that have a torque specification. (helps to keep a list of torque specs on your phone) Don't forget the hardware inside your van holding your cabinets and other interior parts together. They are getting rattled loose too. I'm a big fan of Loctite 290 which is a medium strength wicking threadlocker to help keep nuts where they are supposed to be. Easy to go around your van applying it to the threads of all your fasteners; it's a thin material and it's wicking nature lets it get inside the nut without having to disassemble the fastener first for application. While I'm going around checking fasteners I am also looking for rust and I touch up any spots I find with some Corroseal rust converter/encapsulator. It certainly has done wonders for keeping my hitch receivers looking good.
So I am thinking that what has to happen that is different from a standard install is: 1. remove battery boxes and all the brackets holding the tanks/running boards 2. modify the middle brackets by adding a flat bar and install rivnuts in the right places to bolt the bar up 3. weld some eyes on, 2 on passenger side, 1 on driver side, to hold the tanks Is that it? Sounds doable. (I do not have a ladder on the side, and I have already removed the AGM batteries).
Update to my previous comment: Looks pretty good and really similar to the Falken Wildpeak AT3W. I have the falkens on my F150 and they have been absolutely amazing grip wise and noise wise. I need to check the tread depth as they seem to be wearing a little faster than I would have expected but it is probably because I tow my boat a good bit and didn't choose the LT tire. I put the 275/70/18 size on my truck. It cleans out mud surprisingly well though... I was able to pull my buddy around 1/4 mile out of a soupy, muddy road. We went hunting in his old suburban while the ground was frozen. Well by the afternoon it thawed and you we were literally slipping and falling just trying to walk and my truck pulled that huge, heavy suburban a long way. I just knew I better not stop or we would be getting into trouble. Not to mention the trees were spaced out just as wide as my truck so I was the only option for getting him out. This was the only time I have ever needed 4x4 with these tires. I was surprised to see I could mostly navigate in 2wd, except when I tried to reverse sharply once. As soon as I went in 4 high it locked right up and had virtually no slippage. I will definitely be putting these on my TJ soon since it desperately needs tires. I'm hoping I can find a D44 and D30 with 4:10 gears first so I can step up to a 33 though. My current 3:07 gears suck even with 31s
I just switched to Wildpeak from Goodyear Adventure kevlar a/t, and even went up a size to 17" wheels, and they ride smoother, feel lighter, and look badass. $510, in May 2020. I'm a fan.
Very nice TJ! I am getting these tires on my F150 this coming Tuesday. I ordered them last Friday and have been itching to get them on. Hopefully they are much better than my hankook dynapro ATMs. They treated me well the first half of their lifetime (first 25,000 miles), but now I do a burnout at every stoplight going up any size incline whenever it rains.
I keep reading how AT3W’s are less costly than other major brands. Perhaps that’s true in P-metric tires, 16” sizes and so on, but I found them to be the same or more than BFG’s in 275/65R20.
This year the team is all switching over to falken MTs. I have ran the at3 in a 33 but when going up in size went to Goodyear mtr. Loved my falkens more! Great company great prices and GREAT tire!
