I have a KTM 390 Duke with a non-adjustable cartridge fork. Can I simply remove the cap at the top of each tube and take out a little oil with your level tool, without disassembling the tubes from the triple clamps, etc.?
The KTM workshop manual recommends removing the forks before any maintenance. The problem you would have to solve not disassembling the forks is to control the spring compression. If you remove both fork caps the forks will collapse and oil will spill out. If you only remove one cap at a time you will need to prop up the bike and compress the closed fork to be able to unscrew the fork cap from the compression rod from the open fork.
so I cant find a measure down for oil height on my WP Apex shocks do you have any tricks for coming up with one? Worst case Im going to measure the one that's not leaking then refill by volume and measure it again then.
QUESTION- Using this tool on an Inline 4 bank, I find it extremely difficult to feel WHEN the flat screwdriver bit is actually seated in the screw slot. This can cause problems because you can't really tell if your moving the screw or not. I usually have to remove the casrbs just to set the screws. Any hints?
You use wrong backing plate to rivet the pin... you must use small round plate. It is special plate it does not press to chain although pin itself... the plate you use it just for pressing chain by two sides as you showed before
You taught me something. I’ll Be tackling a fork seal replacement on my BMW R1200RT (no springs in these forks). I did order a fork level and was wondering how it’s used (no one ever explained we it to me). Now I understand. Thank you
I'm in the process of designing a turbo setup for my 94 magna and I was wondering "If I put a boost gauge on it with vacuum will the needle shake too much?" literally this video was the first one that came up and answered my exact question.
please tell me where I can get some those little regular valve that is used to reduce flutter/fluctuations in the vacuum gauge. I can’t find them on line. I’ve use so many different word variation in the search but no luck. What are they called?
Hi Thanks for a very nice video. Is there any chance of only doing two carbs at a time? We order the tool for four carbs but we missed there was two m5 and two m6 bolts and the m5 do not fit.
Thank you, Sir for the great tutorial. One question: Do we have to have to motorcycle warmed up at operating temperature before we start synchronizing the carbs?
is the internal diameter of the adapters important? I have 4 adapeters of the same type, but due to manufacturing imperfections, its internal diameter is not the same in all 4. I can appreciate this fact by blowing inside with mouth; some are more "free" than the others.. thanks.
Such a simple concept. Basically insert a straw of the length of fork tube you want air to occupy and suck until the straw can't reach fluid anymore. Thanks so much going to use this on Saturday for a street bike fork service.
Got sealed bearings I set up the puller and I'm sure everything is correct but once I try to turn the big bolt at the bottom while other wrench is holding the shaft so it wont turn as soon as everything is tight, and I try to pull bearing the wrench will not move!!! It feels like the bearing is welded in. I sprayed the bearings with WD40 hoping that would help. ha-ha right!! funny thing the bearings turn without any resistance, from WD??? Or are my bearings still good? But it definitely feels like the bearing is galled in the hub. since the big nut touches the big extractor thing with the big brass spacer on top, well the nut touches that and will NOT turn. probably just bring it to an Indy Shop. Afraid to warp the rotor or hub with a torch, so the shop could do it!! Can't afford a new rim ATM.
