Just an ordinary guy trying to share with people the various things I have learned over the course of my life. Some of it may be relevant, some of it won't be. Some pointers may apply, some won't. However my hope is to always provide some insight.
Thanks for the video...I have a 98 and everything you mentioned is intermittent and just stopped working...I am going after the Battery Saver Relay ( its easier to get to )... first...then your module after that....again thanks your video was very heplful....
Well i do mention in the video how a battery can go bad suddenly and literally overnight. So with that in mind- How old is your battery? Do you have it on a trickle charger?
I don't see why you had to remove the crank pulley and the cam seals to do a timing belt. All of those parts have to be in place before you install the new belt, and that means they never had to come off in the first place. Once you jack the motor up and remove the motor mount and front cover, you should be pretty close to being able to swap the belt out. Unless its a unique design. To be honest, I don't work on a lot of Chrysler products, but the ones I have, weren't too bad. For someone who's doing DIY work, Chrysler is not a bad choice. On some brands, everything you do is an absolute nightmare.
Obviously, you didn't watch the video. You don't have to pull the cam seals to do a belt, but you do have to pull the belt to do the cam seals, which is what this video is about. You by your own words haven't worked on a "lot of Chrysler products. Since you haven't worked on a Chrysler 2.5 I will enlighten you: In order to pull the belt, you have to release tension on the belt. To do such you have to get to the idler wheels which are under the lower portion of the timing belt cover. That cover is captured by...wait for it...the harmonic balancer. So, you have to pull the balancer to remove the cover to get to the tension idler to then remove the tension from the belt to remove the belt so you can then pull the cam sprockets to replace the cam seals. End of story.
Well at least you got 5 more years out of it but in my case and given my luck, I decided to just replace it. Shame I didn't do such on the cam seals the 1st time around!🤣😂
You said the DMM will "click". I think you meant the RELAY will click when you remove that front seat belt fuse, in the Power Distribution Center...under the hood. My 1997 Chrysler Sebring had the back window smashed out. So the car flooded in the rain...like 8" deep. I used an umbrella with bungee cords during the rainy days. On sunny days, I would drive it. The seat belts are a prime suspect. When you pull out the sear belt fuse under the hood, you said: "your DMM will click"...no. Your RELAY will click. I wish more You Tube broadcasters would write a script. Practice 3-5 videos, before you "send" it out to us. Now I have to go back and watch your video again, to figure out what to do with that "bracket" you hooked onto that negative terminal. I understood it makes it easy to get alligator clips to bite onto it. But I still don't understand what to do with that thing. I can make one, once the nuts & bolts in my tiny little pinhead sort themselves out. Everybody in Television has a script...otherwise, we get anxious, and hope we went over that important part of the training video. I have selected "all videos" from you...not just occasional ones. You've done a great job, here. Good luck, read your Bible.
Steven, the bracket allowed me to hook my DMM in parallel with the ground lead so that I could take the negative lead off the post but not kill the power to the car. Why? Because the Belt module was intermittent. Sometimes, it worked properly, and the car would pull 15ma. Other times, it was misbehaving to the tune of it pulling over an amp (1.2 if memory serves me correctly) for HOURS and thereby killing the battery in about 2 days. Breaking the circuit would allow that module to 'reset' and work as it should...for a spell. So, I had to find a way to easily hook my meter up and not break the circuit. Hence the bracket. Now, unlike you, I had no reason to suspect said module. My car hasn't flooded. However, unlike you, I had nothing to go on other than the usual b.s. trash that the internet had offered up such as "check your dome light, check your trunk light". So, with that being said you don't have to watch the video any further for you have the cliff note version at hand. As for your wishes- This is the 2nd week in a row where you've complained, commented and otherwise pointed out my gaffs yet your questions show me that you didn't watch the complete video. Now you don't need to watch as I told you all I did but remember something- this sh*t is free and this isn't a professional production. I don't have a crew nor the time to 'write a script' and practice with 3 to 5 videos. This is a one-man operation of a busy guy. Animals, wife, life, they all take their time. If I got paid, I'd LOVE to do T.V. worthy shows but I don't and YT is free. So, I try my best. If you think you can do better, than by all means please do. Your channel shows you've posted nothing other than comments (nothing like the luxury of criticism, eh?) so it may be an eye-opening experience for you to film, edit and post content. That being said, if you don't like something I said, or my delivery makes you "anxious" then just move on. Hate the sound of my voice? Move on. I said X instead of Y, move on...especially when it involves a video I made 2 years ago! Think you can do better? Please do. Let's see your results. However, until I get paid for this to where I can get script writers, a teleprompter, editing crew, etc., you get what you get with warts and all and sadly I am an incredibly flawed human.
Just to add to the wiki, when I bought my 95 used several years ago, the 4-hi and 4-low lights would flash whenever I rolled my window down, seemingly alternating the power, (if that makes sense). Did only that for a few years until some very strange things began happening! The alarm would chirp randomly, then the dome lights would flash, wipers coming on, and more chirping. Very disconcerting to say the least! I took it to the shop and they diagnosed it with a bad GEM. They said there were only two new ones available and they were $600+! I dug around on an Explorer forum and eventually figured out that used ones were available and ordered one, having the shop replace it. Fast forward another couple years to the present and it's acting up again. Periodically the 4wd lights start flashing and then the windows won't roll down. Not waiting for it to go out completely this time, but will replace it myself. Thanks for the tutorial! Edit to add that mine came from a 96 also, and works fine. 👍
Wow! That's crazy!! Had to laugh when you wrote: " Did only that for a few years until some very strange things began happening!" As if that wasn't strange enough?? *ROFL* Thanks for the update though about your experience.
I have a 2 wheel drive and could not find a bcm used so I tried a used 4 wheel drive and it worked your video helped me tremendously got back my "Creature Comforts"
Some of the worst people in the world are automotive engineers who come up with his garbage as a way to over complicate something that should be simple.
Thanks a lot for this detailed video, my 1993 fat boy been dead for three months and not starting at all, i cleaned up the copper on the plunger and boom , my bike started right away. really appreciate you putting this video up and helping us out with this issue , that saved me ton of money.
Well, this video is about the sealing of headers. As such I didn't cover the minutia of headers installation or maintenance. Plus in this day and age, I would hope most know about locking header bolts! And if not, then you just informed them.😜
I got an 01 mustang, I cannot figure out my intermittent wipers. They work on high and low, but will not return home when switched off, no int. settings work at all. Also I have no map lights, but the center dome comes on when doors are opened and with the light switch. I've narrowed wipers down to either a broken wire somewhere in the harness, or something wrong in the gem.
Can it be repaired.... Pat answer is - yes. Can it be repaired by someone such as yourself, or even me, who worked as an electronics technician is my past? No or incredibly doubtful. It's a circuit board with a slew of surface mounted components upon it and without a schematic, you'll be hard press to know what does what. I believe there are places that do repairs commercially but I think your best bet is junkyard or fleabay.
Thank You!! I have been searching for a concise description of how to install the dreaded T Clips! Your video is the only one of dozens that properly explains what to do. The directions that come with the webbing kit are wrong, imagine that! After fumbling with the clips I decided to go with the screws on the chair back. I didn't have a screw so I went to Ace Hardware and bought expensive screws that would fit the diameter hole-about 9/64's. I am using a Grommet kit for the webbing on the length wise. Later I realized that the screws won't work in my smaller diameter screws with those grommets! Now Im back to the clips and will make another attempt following your valuable advice! Thanks again!
motorcycles used to be more simple to work on but now they're getting more complicated like cars, it's almost to the point where you can't fix anything by yourself anymore because for some damn reason they got a program something into something on a printed circuit board once you get something fixed on and that could cost you a couple hundred dollars just so they can program whatever it is
2007 FLSTN Deluxe - loud starter clicking - replaced battery (was on its way out) - no fix - replaced starter relay - no fix - next step check connections to starter but a prick to do as the oil tank needs to be removed. Instead I may pull out the Jack plunger and dump electrical cleaner in the starter.
I've found low battery voltage can also cause the click of dread. My battery dies after a year or two and produces the click of dread. It has nothing to do with the solenoid.
Kits are less than 25 bucks online including plunger and side contacts, so given the effort involved and the high cost of primary cover gasket and seal kits I would only sand contacts in some dire emergency. Much love for the outstanding design of those very popular starter motors. I install pushbutton end covers on mine as a rule, but ya can drill the center of the cover and use a screwdriver (round shank preferred) to start the bike until you get a pushbutton.
I gota a o3 softtail duece .started clicking ..circuit breaker corroded. Replaced .replaced relay .cleaned selinoid contacts .still clicking .good battery.pulled off primary cover .the damn bolt in jackshaft .had backed out shaft was sitting loose put back in tightened bolt no damage to flywheel teeth or jackshaft .started right up..got b lucky
I have a 91 fxrs-sp, I've replaced all components, cleaned commutator and brushes, put new contacts in solenoid. Replaced relay. I even hooked my truck battery directly to the system.. And my starter still will not trun over the bike.. i don't knowmwhatbelse to do. I have bench tested the starter and it engages great..I'm at a lose. Any more suggestions??
it was nickel copper tubing. tried everything I could think of. about twenty times. It puts a little thread almost on the flare. I went with braided stainless lines. I might try it on steel tubing. thanks for the video.@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner
Well mate, I'm sorry to hear that. In theory nickle/copper line is softer than steel so this tool should flare the line with no problem. Only things I can think of to cause this problem would be either the clamping block is worn out (would require a ton of prior use to do that), the O.D. of the line is smaller than the specified size and is too small for the clamp block or perhaps there wasn't enough lube on the flaring die. All I can say is that I used this tool on my 3/16th steel line and it flared perfectly and the block itself did help straighten out a bent up line.
I had the click of dread for one whole summer before it got diagnosed and treated correctly. Plus my magneto and the stater were wonky. Got the whole system replaced by a good outfit.
Man, wish I found this first. Fantastic overview and now I feel totally comfortable tracing my click down after having replaced the battery (was old), regulator, and relay. My issue was intermittent then just stopped altogether so I need to dig in to the solenoid. THANK YOU!
That I have had the click of dread when i was 30 minutes from home. Yes I will be putting a manual starter button on after watching this. Great advice!
Just experienced this on my very first Harley. I have driven it exactly once lol! It is a 1991 Electra. I ordered the push button cap, be here Sunday! Thankfully it happened at home!
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner I ordered a repair kit for the solenoid. While installing it I discovered the solder on one of the leads to the windings had let go. That was my no start problem. Oh well, the new contacts are installed and the bike starts once again.
@@SilverPaladinthanks for this info. I have a “no start” as well. No click no nothing. Just keeps sounding like the fuel pump primes when I hit the start button. I ordered my repair kit this morning, and can’t wait to start plugging away.
@@joeykahng6219 when I installed my kit, it turns out one of the leads had de-soldered and was flapping in the wind. I soldered it back down and problem solved! Then I had to use the push button cause the starter button stopped working, and that turned out to be a bad ground wire.
I can't speak too much about the 48 as I believe they uses the Sporty engine. While similar in troubleshooting principle, the starter location makes it a bit of a bear to work on.
