This is Chanel about electronics, 3d printing and Innovation. Love tinkering , fixing and prototyping. Too many ideas brewing in my head, not much time in the day!
next time pull the wires through the hole and then solder them to the socket. Then place the whole contraption back in the whole. Makes the soldering a lot easier.
Another trick, When disconnect the carriage from the frame, You still have to remove the Front panel But first remove the inside bolts, all you have to do is to remove them is to put unit vertical and w the front panel removed the PB rods which are flexible now than by using a screwdriver they will move out of the way enough to remove the screws and without removing anything like the PB's So I will not break any of the PB' to the plastic Rods which like to break. Now the carriage is free from the frame than you can put unit back carefully down and than remove the left screws/Bolts Now its free from the frame and you can move the carriage (make sure the motor does not short anything out, Tape Board ) and now you can run it and also put it on it side and can remove the motor plate (screw are glued down use Acetone (Nail Polish remover) to help remove Glue, be careful it melts plastic) and you than can replace the belts (I removed the plugs to the front panel and re-hooked them up and laid it on top of the unit) I had to unhook a lot of the hold down wire wraps and that way I could pull the wires to the front and get more lack to the carriage and than I had more room to move or flip the carriage to work on it without stretching out any wires/cables , I hope this makes sense. Gook Luck
Bought a HF400xm from ebay and it worked for about a couple minutes, which was a good because I than wiggled the CN55 connector (for motor ,brake and head up/down sol) and while wigging it would work would stop working so I glue the loose connect Socket to the board and also found some open Traces which had fine line cracks after fixing about 3 it worked But than the Brake sol would not work but unit would still play and FF and rewind LOL which is not good and it had a lot of drag and would Slow everything down ,,,, Ended up having to fix another bad traces from socket pin to component. Just to let other people know about this problem. Good luck
Technically its a variable auto transformer, VARIAC is a trademarked brand name by ISC Inc for a variable auto transformer in the same way many people call a vacuum cleaner a "Hoover" because its is or was a extremely popular brand or the one that started that product line.
Good morning, I have a FLUKE 87 controller. Yesterday I measured a voltage at the output of a ballast. On the "AC voltmeter" gauge first, then on the "Ohmeter" gauge, forgetting to discharge the circuit before! The FLUKE 87 didn't like it! I now have, in the voltmeter position, 1.8VAC when I measure 230VAC and in the ohmeter the display flashes quickly and gives no value! Do you think I can repair my device? Can you tell me where to find the electronic diagram and spare parts for the FLUKE 87? Thank you for your response and for your help. Sincerely.
@@InsideOutElectronics always check with these because sometimes they allow solid core or stranded wise but maybe that wire needs something like a ferrule if not it is always recommended to have smart switches rated much higher than needed
So nice to see the comments 😂. I thought I was the only one who bought just a single unit of Mittled. I’m going to trash it because the stuff you are supposed to buy to fix it is too expensive. It will be cheaper to get an electrician to fix some fancy lights instead!!
I clicked on this video specifically because I knew how tricky they can be. It's just a basic cassette deck, but somehow Pioneer came up with the most difficult disassembly process for changing belts. Easily the hardest to work on of any Pioneer cassette deck I've come across.
