Orange County Reloading Supply. Whether you are new to reloading or experienced, there is plenty for everyone to learn. In most retail shops, employees are coached to efficiently get the customer what they need and hurry them to the cash register and get on with the next customer.
At RELOAD we slow down. We take the time to find out what your needs are, based on your shooting habits.
This is the basis used to give you custom service specific to your specific needs.
Reloading is a safe and rewarding skill you will be proud to know and eventually pass on to others. It is one of the uniquely American traditions we are blessed to continue down through the generations.
If you are new to reloading, we will take as much time, care and attention you need to get you off to a successful start making your own ammo.
If you are an experienced hand loader, you will find all the familiar brands in equipment and components you have come to know and trust.
Got it! Set pin over crash site, no more crash at site. Yes, I get pins in multiples, my bent pins are mostly Mojave Desert or spent 22 in my brass, and me failing to do a good job cleaning, or looking first. Never knew of Carbide and lube relation as a metal worker. I will still be giving lite lube, as life tells me dry brass or copper is not happy or relaxed. Thanks! I will do a straight wall Soon.
Or? "Crud" in a Primer Pockets, primer O.D. sealing wall or flash hole? then "I build" a system off basics. Sounds like you. THANK! YOU! Sir! May w e have Another? Teach to "learn" and Understand with observation, not memorize info. "I cast" my own ram rod tips, per projo shape, with sized empty casings filled epoxy or lead.
Talking about 9mm short, I just got finished loading 500 rounds of (9x18) 9mm Makarov. I had new Starline brass, HP-38 powder, 93gn. Acme Hi-Tek bullets & ZSR small pistol primers.
Had a tube of the RCBS classic sticky lube just like you. When the tube cracked, I transferred it to an old Kodak 35mm film container, the black plastic container with the gray cap (1980s vintage). Still have it in that container after many years, and it still works fine. Now I mostly use wax when I can, but nothing smells more like "Reloading" than the old RCBS lube.
My charging routine is to use a Redding Competition 10X powder measurer to drop a slightly light charge and then trickle to weight with a Lyman brass Smith trickler on an Ohaus 5-0-5 beam scale, then I double check the charges on a Hornady G3-1500 digital scale to make sure the charges are accurate. If there is any variations between scales I re tear the digital scale and visually check the poses on the beam scale. Usually it will be the digital scale has drifted, but once I had accidently bumped a pose on the beam scale. Once I load up 50 cases I shine a light into he cases for a visual check of the powder levels. So I am making sure that all my loads weigh exactly the same between two different scales and then apply a third safety check by eye to make absolutely sure that every case has powder in them and that there are no double charger. Better to be safe than sorry. Speed loading is like speeding down the highway. Somebody sooner or later is going to get hurt or even die. Or at the very least look like an idiot on the shooting range, when their gun blows up, for having made a bad round. One thing to watch out for is static electricity building up in the plastic hoppers of the powder measurers of which will cause the powder to bridge in the drop down tube causing a light charge in one case and then a near double charge in the next case. DRAMWORXS makes Pyrex hoppers for all major reloading company's powder measures that stop the static from being able to build up in the first place. So if one wants to drop powder charges directly into cases from the powder measurer they really should get a DRAMWOXS hopper for safety reason mentioned above. And then do a visual check of each case to boot. Because if others get killed because someone neglected to assure that they are indeed making safe rounds then it will not be considered an accident but rather negatable homicide! And no one wants to be that guy!
I have collected around 90 reloading manuals dating back to the early 1900s to the present, and have gain a plethora of knowledge from them. I also have watched just about every RU-vid video on the subject as well. I agree that one should go slow when reloading and incorporate as many safety checks into their reloading process as possible to insure that they do not hurt or even kill the bystanders when they shoot off their rounds. People that do not double and triple check each case for the powder charges have literally hurt and killed innocent bystanders. This is akin to speeding down the highway putting others at risk. They may get away with it for some time, but sooner or later some one will get hurt. And it is no accident but rather negligible homicide when one does get killed from another's reckless conduct just because they lack patients. It is always better to be safe than sorry!
Not ever using rice. Not ever using pins. I do like a sonic cleaner followed by a corncob polish. If it's just a handful of rounds, a Sinclair case holder chucked in my benchtop drill press or my Show Me case spinner allows for easy Flitz polishing. No need to complicate things. Save the rice for drying out your wet phone. Be sure to label it so someone doesn't cook it and eat it.😊
Rice doesn't aggressively clean as does cob and walnut shells. It does polish the carbon in the neck, giving a more consistent neck tension, bullet release. This is rice alone, without any added abrasive or polishes. Buckwheat is similar, with the bonus of being away too large to get into a flash hole. Tip on pins, one, try a batch without them, soap and water. Most brass is just soot. In fact a soak in soapy water will usually be enough. And, the case mouths won't be beat up. Two, remove the pins Before the rinse, the soap helps the little dudes slide right out.
I wet tumble with stainless steel pins and I always check the flash holes AND cases cuz if you’re not careful, a couple pins left in the cases will decrease case capacity and I assume raise pressures
I load a dozen different calibers and the best way to go for that is with a turret press. I have 6 turrets set up with the dies, two sets in each so I can easily swap them out.
The CCI 350 large pistol magnum primer was developed just for H110 powder, which is akin to igniting charcoal, so, ya it prefers magnum caps, even small ones. That's a terrible way to treat that Rockchucker press. 😏 Thanks for the vid!
So why didn't the decapping pin punch out the old primer? Not enough protrusion from the die? If the spent primer is preventing case removal from the shellholder, you can always re-seat it and find out the problem. I have my T7 set up for large primer seating on-press and my RCBS Partner set up for small primer seating. In case I just want to seat one primer. Or 2 or 3. Thanks!
The beauty for a reloader in introducing and including your grandkids to shooting is you've got instant "brass police", if you train 'em up right!!! We take the family shooting, expend a ton of rounds, and the kids AUTOMATICALLY know to grab a bag or bucket and start to scavenging!! We've ALWAYS come home with more brass than we used. Yes, the little ones 5-6 yr olds will still pick up the occasional steel case, but we sort it out. I've got the 8-10 yr olds on the turret press now, and every time they visit Grammy and Papa's house, they ask if we can reload!!! I love it!!!
Just preparing to make custom loads for 20 Gauge I can't find or are REALLY expensive. Even though not shotshells, appreciate your presentation! Of course, I just got a 556 bolt gun, so maybe. Thanks.
I used the kinetic pullers.. have two of them. Never ceases to amaze me that I can pound something plastic on the concrete floor and it does not break.
I use both inertia and collet pullers. Sometimes you just can't get a grip on the bullet because there isn't enough shank to get a purchase. Although if the caliber gap isn't too big, you can try the next smaller size collet. I have the full set of collets in the puller die box. My puller is semi-permanently mounted in a Lee C-type press. I would add, to all reloaders, do not leave rounds lying around your bench that you think could be potentially dangerous to fire. Because if something happens to you, your family will clean out your gunroom and those rounds will end up in a box and probably sold at auction. Someone else may fire them. Thanks!
I have recently got back into reloading after being away from it for over twenty years. I've also recently found your chanel and wanted to say I've enjoyed watching your videos. Even through your working on things I'm not doing, they have been very informative to me. Looking forward to viewing more in the future. Thanks for the help. Mike
You do an excellent job. It’s great how you’re sharing the tools and their attributes. Good infor for those who haven’t tried various products. Keep it up!
I also have a junk ammo box but most of mine is range pickups that I will not shoot because I have no idea what of how they are loaded. Might be factory or might be somebody’s crazy homemade mistake.
