You think a bad distributor would cause the engine to break up at higher RPM? I just my ECU swapped out for a standalone MSPNP2 and its breaking up at higher RPM - weirder still is that at WOT around 4800 to 5000RPM, the tachometer pins itself at "7000RPM"
Bro this is a good video but I still can’t get the timing exactly where it needs to be? I used the paper towel remedy and it is firing up but I can still hear a slight ping when I set the timing at 10 degrees? I’m running off the same 5.0 engine as you are in the video. I am setting the distributor in at zero degrees which is top dead center right?
Are you running AC? I was just curious why you didn't cap off the EGR vacuum under the upper intake and just use the AC check valve mounted on the firewall to supply vacuum to that vacuum ball in the fender?
What about changing the condenser too do you have to take the whole heater box out or can you do it like you did the heater core. Great video thank you!
Just get the one off the holden / opel / Vauxhall astra. Theyre like 30 bucks, and they are literally the exact same bosche unit. Genuinely, i put one in a nissan patrol for 120 bucks AUD, including mounts, lines, fittings and wiring. Not really worth paying more for the same product, with a different size reservoir.
Dude Great explanation. Heck, I've had my 1991 5.0 since 1995. Had engine in and out man times and everytime I do distributor, I do exactly that. I always forget. ugh. Thanks bro great video!
Whats the situation with buying a roller out of state? I found a roller with cage with title in texas. Planning buying in cash but my question is the title transfer and paying the taxes for that. If you read this thanks
Cannot thank you enough. After following lots of other videos. I finally found yours thankfully. Yours is by far the best! Super appreciate it. Saved me after 3 days of driving me crazy
My first car, from a dealership, was a Plymouth neon. The car was so fun to drive with the 5-speed manual. That thing seemed to be glued to turns, which made back roads an absolute blast. It was super easy to work on and was a solid winter car in the snow. My neon was super reliable and never let me down. I still have that 00 neon till this day plus upgrades here and there
Nice video. Dealing with the same issue in a Ford f150. My original thought was wiring a potentiometer/rheostat inline which may or may not work correctly. Wondering if I would need two of those meter match boxes though since I have 2 tanks and unfortunately I believe they are different ohm limits top and bottom. Why not just replace the broken stock gauge one might ask. Because I am one of those people who just has to have everything completely custom (including my tattooed skin)down to the climate control knobs which I made out of titanium dice simply because I can. Anyway thanks for the video I’ll be watching more.
Say man great job doin the video thanl you, Ok now ive gotten that far my next issue is the starter engages but will not rotate the engine yet the engine is not locked up and the flexplate is good , What gives she just will not crank
To find TDC I use a small keychain pen whistle inside a piece of 3/8" fuelline that I screw inside the sparkplug hole and when it stops whistling Im at TDC... Heres another tip for you so you dont have to move the distributor to 10* after setting it to TDC... Do you see the rounded indent above the time mark?......The edge that says Time is where 10* is supposed to fall and when it does 0 aligns with the rounded indent...When done right you shouldnt need to move your distributor. Heres another tip.....After you get the distributor set to 10* and the dist locked down take a long flatblade screwdriver with a hammer and on the leftside edge make a dimple mark in the distributor housing using the engine block for easy reference in case you have to remove the dist to change the gear or the halls effect pickup module.
Your video helped remind me how to do these, quick, thorough. Threw a 5.0 front sway bar on & changed my oil while it was in the air. Great job, thank you. My boy Blue rolling like a top again.
You can go 12s in a full stock Foxbody the mods mentioned in this video are great but all you gotta do is take a little weight out of it. skinny upfront Shorty belt 65 mm tbody 80 mm mass air long tubes 2 1/2 inch off-road exhaust 410 Gear drive it like you stole it. That will get you into the 12s on a budget keyword that last statement budget remember weight is free horsepower later
Missing hardware, parts , and poor QC , Stripped housing bolts… They should have replaced everything that was wrong and/or refunded some money. Thanks for the honesty.
I'll give this a shot tomarrow. I been fighting with this on my 1990 5.0 Bronco I feel so stupid I cannot get the damn thing to run if my life depended on it.
Great video i used it and it worked well for me. Only question is what is the reason for the rotor and sensor lining up in the video, I followed what you did and it worked well so no complaints. I just want to know why and where could I find information on that. Thank you.
Thanks man. This is what I needed. Going to find a 06 to 09 ford fusion in the junkyard and get one of these to have my ecu control the fans gradually on my 240sx s14.
