Welcome to Straight Shooter, Mason here, I’m just a guy from rural Minnesota that likes shoot guns, learn new things, and have fun!
The goal of this channel is to learn new hunting techniques, show how to videos, product reviews. Also hunts we go on, and of course a little humor here and there!
Please subscribe, and join me as we learn new things and have a blast together!
I live in west central MN, I farm full time. Run a small gun store and 5 stand sporting clay range on the side, and am going to try my hand at RU-vid!
Im no longer religious but upvote for the positive and helpful content. Glad you live your truth bravely in a society that doesn't always accept believers
That is why I like mil dot scopes. You can zero the scope at 100yds and then use the mil dots for longer range. Some scope companies have bullet drop for the mil dots or you can figure them out for yourself.
I have the optima V2. 100gr Blackhorn 209 w/Hornady 250g ballistic tips. Dropped a 220lb 11pt buck this month. Ironsights at 65 yards. Fantastic combo. 🎉
If temperature and elevation matter that much, I don't see how it could hold accurate for all the seasonal changes, and hills and valleys. A 15° day at 3500 feet, and a 90° day at 500 feet are nothing close to the same, and I shoot in both
@@straightshooter7354 that’s the plan!! Just not sure what parts of Montana have Turkey? Was thinking of going around whitefish area but not sure if there are any there? Thanks for the reply!!
Not sure specifically, if I was you, I would get on the phone and call a few landowners out there. I have found that if your friendly and curious the ranches are very friendly and willing to chat
Some things to keep in mind, the two things that will affect this the most are muzzle velocity and the ballistic coefficient (BC) of the projectile. I just did the same thing and put in for a dial, but I realized that the ammo that I have has a real low ballistic coefficient of like 0.3, which makes it drop much faster. The really high BC ammo in 300 Win Mag is like five dollars a shot. Took me awhile to find some ammo at a decent price with a decent BC of just over 0.5, $50 for a box of 20 instead of $120 for a box of 20 for the high end stuff (I chose polymer tipped projectiles). Be sure to research your ammo first and get the best ammo you can (and can shoot within your budget) before locking in the dial to it, better yet buy a bunch of that ammo before you submit your dial info so you are sure you can get that ammo. If you can't get it anymore you may have to reload. Keep in mind that the dial is only accurate with that ammo that it is designed around, for all other ammo you'll have to do small manual adjustments or ideally you'd have multiple dials, one for each type of ammo. I didn't use a chronograph, I just took the number from the box, but keep in mind you need to know the muzzle length that they used for that number. In my case they used a 26 inch barrel and that's what I have. If I had a 20 inch barrel then I'd need a chronograph because the muzzle velocity would be much different. If you do use a chronograph be sure to use the exact same ammo that you intend to use with the new dial. Also for the air temperatures, I've heard that it only changes the bullet drop about 2 inches at 1,000 yards, so temp is not that important. At 1,000 yards the bullet drops about 25 feet anyway depending on the bullet, it's a tough shot, temperature adjustment is only for professional long range shooters. Not sure how much elevation would affect things, I'm up here at 9,000 feet. I'd be curious to see how that differs from sea level.
Nice shooting. This is the only staccato i want but i am going to have to wait some time to get it nit in position to afford it at moment. I will say once i get it i eill use as EDC
one thing on using the flag pole....it will not work if your holding the gun. You need to have it mounted and then place on flagpole if you want. But level is best way. Holding the gun you will automatically adjust hairs to level. vertical wise.
JMO I have BCA 10.5" rear charger. I have been thru four extractors in 300 rounds. Bear Creek did not sell them on their website and after two months of no response I bought a new bolt from black rifle arms $100. Because BCA has a different milling depth I had to get their bolt. Black rifle does sell just the extractors for $12. Then I put a h3 buffer to try to fix the over gassing caused by the insane .095 gas port. Still ejected at 1oclock. I finally added a adjustable gas block and have it shooting and ejecting at 3 o'clock and have not broken any extractors since the gas block was changed. About 100 rounds since then. I suggest you do a steel gas block especially in a shorter barrel. I got the one that bents the extra pressure out the front. It was suggested by MRGUNSANDGEAR he has a great video on all the options for adjustable gas blocks. My gun is very accurate that is the only reason I have not scraped this whole build. But I recommend you look at 300 black if you are going cheap. 300 operates way way like light years better in ar then 762 because the parent case is 556. Another option is the 350 or even 300 hamr. It is just to much stress on the bolt when they mill that much material from the bolt face to except the larger rims such as 762 and 6.5 grendel. I just wanted to share my experience I did the research prior to getting into this project and I thought the cost of rounds would make up the difference for replacement parts but 300 has came way down and with PSA making ammo as AAC it will continue to fall off. Hope this information is helpful to someone.
@@straightshooter7354 Thanks for paying attention to your 2 year old video. You certainly seem to be a straight shooter. I want my scope to be as low as practical, so I think I will try the low rings, unless you think that would be too risky.
Make sure the rifle is sighted in exactly right before installing the turret as once the CDS turret is installed you can't adjust downward without loosening the three three screws and moving the turret to a position that allows downward movement relocking the screws turning it down and then returning it to the original position. You can adjust up but then also have to loosen screws and adjust to zero.. No great big deal but somewhat time consuming . Just make sure you sight in first. Hope this made sense.
Great video! I noticed you're left-handed and shoot a right-handed bolt. When a quick follow-up shot is needed, what is your process to work the bolt? I'm also a lefty, but have a left-handed older Tikka, but I'm thinking of getting a new T3x and just getting a right-handed version if I can convince myself I'd get used to it. Thanks!
