If you buy a new ignition do you have to get the ignition key and the door keys re-keyed? The new ignition set is $219 if you order from Toyota online and $314 if you go into the dealer. I just had this happen 2 days in a row. I've never had this issue with any of my other vehicles. I was able get it free but I now know it's just a matter of time. I put some graphite in the key hole and it's much smoother but of course it always work in my driveway. I'm ok buying a new ignition set, however, I will call a lock smith to see what they charge. Now days they have jacked the prices up on everything.
Thanks! I did this fuel pump replacement today and it was such a pain in the ass. I really wouldn't recommend people to do this job as this car has one of the more difficult fuel pump replacement. I would also recommend that you use a socket wrench and one of those longer extended sockets to get to the bolt that holds the gas tank. You can reach the bolt from under the car as there's a hole through the metal frame that would allow you go get to it. Doing it with a regular wrench is much harder for sure. The pump on amazon is 60 bucks but I would recommend getting the Delphi or another trusted fuel pump which for me was 500. I don't think this is one of those parts you want to cheap out for a lower quality chinese version and also if you're doing all this work, might as well get one that will last you a long time.
I recently had to get a new cylinder. It came with a set of keys but now I can’t start vehicle as theft system is preventing it from starting. Do I get a locksmith to recode or re craft my new cylinder to fit my original keys or what!?
was the evap hose thats IN the tank, was it attached to the tank inside? Or was the hose and valave inside just lose and sittting in tank? Mines was just laying in a cavity and seems like it would be bouncing around in there?
Just bought a 2005 F150 5.4 and it is throwing P0059 and P2197. It has a rough idle and some acceleration issues. The guy I bought it from claimed it has a remanufactured transmission and he's replaced the timing chain. Listened to the motor with a stethoscope. It has very little valve train noise. Hope it's something simple. Paid $2,900. It has 282k miles on it.
I did this fuel pump replacement on a kia optima 2013 and he's absolutely right. I wouldn't have been able to do the job without his video so I don't know what you're yapping about...
Just note that sensor 1 is the HO2 sensor, so it's the heat one. The one that sticks out from your cat is your downstream O2 sensor. I just realized they are different
Thank you! I'm doing this on Friday! With my 2013 kia optima lx. You should consider getting an affiliate link for Amazon to make money on the part that you ordered.
This was helpful, I called the lock locksmith and they told me they will come out make a new key instead of replacing the ignition. They came out gave me two keys and it worked perfectly. Awesome job, keep posting. Thanks
I have P0430 but it’s the result of an after market Cat put on because of a previous theft with the prior owner. I need to swap out the O2 sensor bank 2. Wasn’t sure where it was. Thanks for showing
p0430 is bank 2 but you need to know which sensor, sensor 1 or sensor 2. sensor 1 is the sensor closest to the engine sensor 2 is the one farther down the exhaust pipe.if you are working on a ford f-150 2004 to 2008 with a 5.4L Engine.bank 2 should be on the drivers side usa built truck. how ever those after market cats don't last that long. but definitely try the 02 sensor first because a 02 sensor is cheaper then a cat.
After replacing the ignition lock and with new keys that comes with the new ignition lock, do you need to program it ? I saw videos of how to program new keys, but what about if you replace the ignition, how do you make the computer recognize the new key and ignition lock ?
Hey just wanted to say thanks for the video man I’m at work and we got a 2013 bug I had the same code as you did and luckily mine was bank 1 as well so your video did all the work besides the wrenching part thanks for sharing brother it saved me a bunch more time and hassle.
I love this video. I got all the way to getting it out, it will go to acc but the pin seems stuck and won't got in so I can slide it out. Any suggestions??? Thank you in advance!
I highly recommend anyone that experiences these symptoms to replace asap. Because if you don't, and you wait till the last minute like me, the cylinder will lock so bad that you can't even turn your key to "Acc" mode to depress the button and remove the cylinder. So a 5 minute job turns into a much longer one. I had to drill mine out.
Thanks for the video! I'm going to try that. I have a 2006 F150 5.4L, about a month ago it's thru a P0345 camshaft positioning sensor. Just last week the truck stopped running. I had a crank no start . I've been working on it for over a week because not only did the truck die, but the battery drained and I lost any new codes. Not only did I change both camshaft sensors I checked for spark, I checked for a fuel, I checked every single relay and fuse, my ignition switch, my safety neutral switch, and on and on and on to no avail. So just today I seen a video of a guy " holding in" his km/mile reset button, then turn the key forward to the on position. Then it let's you run through a whole bunch of stuff.(Codes etc.). Considering my battery died and I had no codes I took a picture of every single one thinking I could pull up a new code. But before I checked them I thought I'd give it one more crank, sure enough it started up and runs after a whole week, ( But runs like a bag of cats), now I'm able to pull codes again!. So now I'm getting O2 sensor codes, saying they're plugged! I'm going to give this a try, Other than the timing chain jumped time, I can't think of anything else that It could be. Fingers crossed.
