A guy and his son making videos to help educate people in reloading and casting. I am not an expert nor do I claim to be. The info that I share on this channel is for educational purposes only. Before engaging in any activity that is promoted on this channel you the individual should weigh the pro's and con's and decide if the actions you choose to take are safe for you. I am not responsible for anything that you do. Please subscribe and leave comments!
It's 2024 and STILL LEE has not fixed this issue, have a brand new load master for 9mm.. and having almost all of my primers on the side. i have rebuilt all the dies, re positions and calibrated the heights , re did the primmer feeder bolt , spent like 5 hours to only still have side feeds .. absolute JUNK, buy a Dillon square b instead
I use the rcbs case deburring tool to cut the crimps out of my 223 cases. The the chuck on my drill press can grip tail on the end of the deburring tool. This makes quick work of cutting out the crimp and ive never had an issue because of it. The dillon super swage looks like a great tool.
Ironically I have the same problem, but was using a Router, I was so upset that night I stop everything and put the project on hold to stop and think. I thought of using lead to repair like was done on Auto Bodies before Bondo, then thought of JB Weld. I plan to resume the project in the Spring with warmer weather in my Garage. I will use you idea of the thin strip on Aluminum. Unlike your Lower mine was engraved to resemble a late 1960's GM Hydramatic......I was sick when the Mill Bit started to cut through the bottom. I plan to finish with Brownells Aluma-Hyde Grey Parkerizing. This shade of Aluma-Hyde is pretty close to real Parkerizing in color. Hopefully the Aluma-Hyde will hide any uneven surfaces after lite sanding
I'm new to reloading myself and I was wondering how I was going to attach my press to the bench cuz I don't want to leave it where I'm reloading it I want to be able to take it away thanks for the idea
I know this is an old video, but it seems like you are struggling. Get the fine strainers from Frankford, they fit under the caps and rinse a couple of times in the sink, then use a dry media tumbler separator. Instead of separating the corn or walnut media, I use it to separate the pins from the brass. Put the pins on a tray and let them air dry and the brass how ever you choose.
My issue with the jig set up is nasty. The jig doesn't fit (mill out) for all of the drop in Triggers on the market. Rise Armament Triggers don't fit as I have three of them and tried them all. 80% customer service was quick to respond but did NOT have any resolution or quick fix. They advertise on their web site for CMC and the trouble shooting tech recommends Trigger Tech Diamond. I'll be trying Trigger Tech Duty as it's the only one that fits my budget. Not happy about the fitment. Also my WOT trigger won't fit for the same reason. Anyone who needs more info or pictures of the issues I found let me know.
Im replying to your comment. RU-vid deleted my account for rasist comments on the video about Eminem with Tony Yayo. Thats why i turn off the comments fyi
I like the lee reloading stand. I put tripod casters on all three legs and essentially I move my reloading station anywhere and still reload shotshell and metallic.
Does it make your day to be a jerk to a 9 year old? If you don’t like seeing my daughters page, stay off RU-vid. You’re the one watching every single video she’s posted. Seems like predator behavior to me.
If a person wants to reload ammo but doesn't have attention to detail and likes to rush through steps, this can lead to disaster. You Can have, good, fast, and cheap but you only get to choose 2. You do know that some russian ammo is steel jacketed with a copper electroplating wash? What does that steel jacket do to the bore of a gun?
@@doghousedon1 Another question for you. If someone was using a vibratory tumbler with walnut or corn cob, what would happen to a gun if the reloaded cartridge had the media left in the cartridge? Over pressure? Under pressure? Squib? Some gun powder can cause over pressure issues at reduced amounts. I bring this up because it seems that you are trying to weigh the pros vs cons using SS pins. Think about your question. IF and a big IF, a SS pin is shot down a barrel how much acctual contact time will it have in the bore? With that time being a fraction of a second how much wear/tear do you think can occur? How would the "damage" occur? From friction correct? Now take into account a steel jacketed or a copper jacketed bullet. How much contact time and contact surface area? Which will cause excessive wear and degrade the barrel faster? So then compare if you have 2 identical barrels and one is used to shoot exclusively jacketed rounds, a and the other is used to shoot exclusively lead bullets, which one will wear out faster? Also the #1 casuse for barrel degradation especially in high pressure loads is the rapidly expanding gasses from the powder ignition. Again if you are concerned about a pin left in the brass, that means you are not diligent during your reloading process and you view the brass cleaning and processing as a hindrance and a time waster. If this is the case I reccomend you just purchase previously cleaned or new brass to eliminate YOU not ensuring every cartridge is free of foreign objects before that cartridge is reloaded and subsequently fired. A pin left in a cartridge is the fault of the reloader not the SS Pin.
@Springfield 0612 I don't understand why you get so bent out of shape over a legitimate question. Of course, I'm weighing the pros and cons, and instead of shedding light on the subject, you go ballistic. Would you get equally pissed if I asked about a walnut shell stuck in the flash hole? I understand that leaving such objects in a case is sloppy work, but accidents do happen, and you have no right to act this way. I'm done with you, your vids are now blocked. Good day.
When you describe the spring loaded table as you position the brass on the Dillon Super Swage, please note that there is a small allen screw on the right side that you can lock to hold the position of the “table” so that you can quickly position the brass to the correct height to swage.
This is old but you can mill the whole bottom out. You can no longer use a milspec trigger but you CAN still use a drop in trigger. Just have a big ol hole in the bottom!!!
I got the same issue but in 9mm from Win,,,3/4 had the crimps compared to the rest having the actual stamp with 0 crimps,,its a headache using the drill bit
Great explanation but there is one major error. At 9:05 you explain that the smaller step down is for 9mm. This is wrong. There is a separate adapter for 9mm. Dillon part number 62168. If you use the tool and put a 9mm on the adapter you show, it is not long enough to bottom out on the case. It will only flare the case mouth out as the swager pushes against the case. The case to be swaged must fit all the way to the bottom of the backing rod.
Happened to me twice in a row on 2 lowers, I put some jb steel stick in there and they work like charms. But I ordered more lowers and figured out a better way to prevent this from happening.
Yeah it should, I’d try anti walking pins first as they’re much cheaper and should accomplish the same solution you’re looking for. I wanna say I’ve fixed an uneven trigger pocket floor using anti walk pins
...I like your adaptation of the Lee case feeder and collator...I had two Lee Pro 1000s that used it...it's the simplest, cheapest and best (IMHO)...I also use plywood bases for all of my presses - including my Dillon 550B. That way I can move them anywwere I want - at any time
I had to re drill some trigger pin holes, finally fixed them, do you know of any good hardening spray paint I could go over it with to make sure they don't woller out?
Nice video. Just bought the Dillon 600 and the Hornady swager system(for my lock-n-load). Planning on the Hornady for military 308 brass and Dillon for everything else. Your tool for cutting crimps is crude and has a mile of run out in it... Not here to poke fun of that but if I can suggest a zero flute countersink & deburring tool 90° I bet you will find it to be the perfect tool for the job.
i had as similar event except i was using a 1/8 th bit for pilot holes where did the drill bit break right smack dab in the middle of trigger hole area. so i tried to drill around the broken bit & the rescue bit deflected of to the side now i have a hole where it should not be. i tried jb weld last night but added some aluminum millings to the mix strong but not strong enough. tonight i was almost done when the whole repair came apart. this is where i hope your fix will help. P.S. you can use a drill press trick is not to be in a hurry DO NOT PUSH IT also with drill off press down on the bit this helps keep everything aligned & keep the bit as close to the work area cuts down on torque which causes the chuck to quickly exit the press. Ask me how i know. anyway i'm going to give your method a shot. Hopefully the third time will be the charm.
Man, I'm so glad to see this. I just finished my 1st gun and I did the same thing except I took off a smidgen too much metal on the side. So I wound up busting a pea sized hole in the righthand side of my lower. I was thinking the same thing I just got some more JB Weld and some filler also. Never thought of aluminum tape! Great 💡 So now I'm going back in and do final mods. It shoots well, I just f'd it up with all that drilling and grinding. I enjoyed the hell out of it though and will be more careful on my next one. This was awesome man, thanks again!!
There is another swager for the Dillon too. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0GSdlsKHwsc.html Super Fast as its on the press + Case feeder no faster way to swage.
All that for a bad job why not do one right.jbweld is not Right just start over do it right.put the time in to do the job right that you tried to fix a wrong