Welcome to my RU-vid channel, my son and I started our own business rebuilding cars that we buy and also doing automotive maintenance on the cars we have, doing troubleshooting and how to videos on what we fix. I hope you enjoy the Videos and some of the cars we get for the channel, please subscribe and don't forget the hit that bell so you don't miss anything. if you would like to support our channel we would greatly appreciate it, you can do so with the link below. thank you for your support. https;//patreon/jcmotivegarage.
What’s up! Question, at the light test where it was supposed to flicker mine did not. You mentioned it being the ignition switch inside the distributor? Where exactly is it? Thanks!
It wasn’t bad, I could just see oil leaking by the side of the head and down by the engine stamp on the block, it could also leak inside the distributor causing spark issues.
@JCMotiveGarage I've got a pretty bad leak on my passenger side. I just did all the drivers side seals and oil pan. Rear main is fine because my flexplates dry. So either my distributor o ring is non existent or I missed one of those little brass rings from the old pan gasket
@boosted_donkey check inside your distributor cap, you can also check the pcv box and see if that has oil in it that’s on the passenger side also, that’s the only 2 things I could come up with beside the stuff you have already checked. Message me on facebook or instagram and I will see if I can help you out
@JCMotiveGarage that's a good point. Forgot about the black box on the back. I've rebuilt these engines before so I'm familiar with them I just wasn't sure if the distributor seal would cause a kinda fast leak ( about a quart in 300 miles). I was just baffled that it was leaking that quick after replacing most of the leaking gaskets lol.
You think it’s worth removing the moldings? I was hoping to wrap over them since I’m not trying to gut the interior to take off the quarter panel moldings lol
I just wrapped over them and it turned out good, it will take more time but not as much and taking them off and putting them back on also they will match the car if they are faded.
These god damn jeeps are grounds for fucking divorce. I'd love to meet the half-wit pile of shit who engineered these the way they are everything just stuffed wherever they'll it'll fit. Exhaust on the wrong side, fuel tank on the wrong side. It's fucking never ending 😂 I'm pulling my hair out rn but thank you for this video it was very helpful
I know I have replace my distributor oil seal. Because I see oil leak inside distributor cap on edges. Does this affect my rpm idle being very low at 500rpm and about die out when stopped car while idle?
Could you please be a little more specific on how you started out to tune low fuel table. Did you hit the lightning bolt to tune/ change fuel cells in Real time ? are the red cells signify a lean air fuel? Can't find help Anywhere searched forums, videos etc. Thanks in advance
just changing d16y8 full stock oem 421 headers to 4-1 , i would say it sound more quiet when idling and cruising around , but it does scream slighty louder before fuel cut , and cool thing is , these long tube headers are making rumble tone like uel headers does at low rpm
I have 2001 Saturn SL2. On cold start it is 1.0 - 1.1 kRPM, pretty much what you have after the cleaning. The car drives well, but code P0401 comes, like after 50 mi. The scanner says: clean EGR passages. I replaced EGR, then removed it about 2 times for cleaning, not much there. I also cleaned Throttle Body, replaced TPS sensor. After driving RPM goes down to 800. Sometimes P0401 code comes in combination w/ P0037, and I replaced the Down stream O2 sensor about 2 years ago (OEM). I would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for the great film.
Thanks for the video. I have an 08 escape and the same window is stuck down, and can't pick it up to loosen the window. Cable is off too any suggestions to get the window out of my way?
Have someone hold the window up, or you can get some tape, just make sure it’s not something that leaves residue and don’t leave it on for a long time. Hope this helps
I had the same problem with the jam nut on my wife's Escape. I tried penetrating oil, heat and large pipe wrenches and couldn't get that nut to budge. I just left it. Fortunately, the alignment was OK.
Did you have to ground the camera to the chassis at all? If so, where did you do that? I originally had it grounded on the hatch, and it worked at first but it doesn't anymore, so the camera doesn't get power.
