ViperSharp was designed to offer you the best in professional precision sharpening systems. Made so you can get a perfect edge whether you are new to knives or a seasoned pro, you are sure to love this system. The system is made in the USA and I will always work to improve it where needed.
You can get yours at ViperSharp.com
This channel will be for proper education and information about sharpening with the ViperSharp and details about knives and abrasives so you can learn more about the sharpening industry.
Das ihr immer alles so extrem Tod reden müsst weniger reden mehr zeigen ! 👎🏽 durch das viele Gerede Gelaber am Anfang ist das Video schon so uninteressant geworden dass man keine Lust hat weiter zu gucken
Not proprietary blade. Standard replacement blade from Olfa. Cat # CKB-2. No need to go to Civivi. They usually have an asymmetrical secondary bevel. Bevelled on the right side, and essentially flat on the left side, like a Japanese kiridashi blade. Easy to sharpen and strop to a crazy edge.
do you know for a fact that fit, as in have you tried them yourself? ive gotten lots of conflicting information with folks saying these do and dont work. seems people who havent tried them say it works and folks who have tried them say it doesnt, but thats just what ive gathered.
If you want the exact same angle from one end to the other then yes. You can use just one clamp but the angle will change slightly with an edge that long.
What do you mean? Do you mean the angle or the consistency? The angle is pretty low but I don't generally look at the actual angle when I sharpen. I can set it up and look at that if that is what you are asking. Let me know.
@@ViperSharp I wanted to know what degree the edge is sharpened to from the factory. Such as 5° or 10° per side. I noticed in the video at such acute angles getting the clamp out of the way was something to consider. My work sharp Precision adjust will probably have issues there, maybe I need your system.
@@Brandon_Neil That is one of the things I considered when creating the ViperSharp. I made the clamp as low profile as I could to keep out of the way when needed. I'll measure that angle and get back to you on it later today.
Looks like it might help to find a little bigger thumbscrew or knob or something for where your left hand was frequently having to tighten/untighten the base clamp there.
I'll take that into consideration. I've got to work within the confines of the other parts to make everything work so in this case there isn't really an option for a bigger thumb screw. This one works quite well though. I have not heard any complaints from customers. Do you have one? I am always listening for suggestions and do all I can to work to improve when possible.
I don’t have one but I’m considering getting one. So yeah I do get that interference might be an issue. It just struck me looking at, say, the 7:43 mark for example. They way the left hand has to grip around the base seems like it might be awkward? If the screw projected out back instead of toward the user, maybe it would interfere less and allow room for an easy to grub knob so you don’t have to do fingertip tightening. If no one else has said anything then yeah it’s probably fine. :-)
@@KernelBill Oh, I see what you are saying. I think that is more the awkwardness of doing a video while sharpening. lol. It's not awkward or hard at all when using the system. I was keeping my finger right there, anticipating the quick swap more than anything.
I bought the aluminum oxide ones 5-1 micron and barely get a mirror edge. Should I use these or the diamond ones to get a better mirror polish? Thank you!
@@ViperSharp I was using them on cpm m4 and its coming through a bit but not a lot. M390 took it better and s30v took it the best, but I'll get some diamond films soon then 👍🏼 look out for an order of diamond stones soon for Jayson Pineda in TX 🤘🏻
@@ViperSharp Can you please make a video more in depth of lapping films and stroping after 250-1200 grit diamond sharpening? I'm still somewhat new in the precision sharpening world; been using a worksharp the last 6 years and got tired of it ruining my edges and nice knives. Thank you!
@@PinedaMMA You Bet. I can do that. I'll put that on for this week. It may be a few weeks before I put it up. I have several already scheduled. I might be able to throw that into the middle of them all though.
@@ViperSharp Thank you so much! I've learned to strop, but not too sure what to use for the polishing compounds and or how to clean and maintain strops; I've seen many ways and methods, but I want some more in depth material. Thank you for listening to the community and alwaya trying to improve the products, it's greatly appreciated!! 👊🏼
Ceramic or Diamond? With Diamond, you need to add oil during sharpening and clean it as you are using it. With Ceramic, soap and water to lubricate and clean. A spray bottle is a good idea for the ceramic. Perhaps use a stiff toothbrush for cleaning it out as well. I only use diamond these days and I've never had any real issues with clogging. I use a rag and oil to keep it lubricated and clean. Which are you using?
That is super awesome. I’m going to be starting my cooking channel back up more that my health is under control, gonna need something like this to maintain my kitchen Knives.
I used diamond here, and that is all I use these days. I definitely recommend using oil with the diamond stones. It helps carry the metal shavings away from the stone and lubricates your blade. I also clean the diamond off periodically with oil and a rag while sharpening.
Why did you decide to do a secondary bevel on what is essentially a razor?? Would really like to see you do a Khukuri style blade. Were you using diamond or a natural stone??
I always use diamond. I did the secondary because I'm lazy. :) If you want to follow the angle on it, it just takes longer because you are removing more metal. It takes longer. I gave my Kukri away last Christmas but I loved it so perhaps I'll get another and show that. I did sharpen it on the ViperSharp when I had it but I don't know if I ever recorded it.
The process seems like it might be a bit easier when you can remove the blade. Nice job! It's extremely helpful when you demonstrate how you use the sharpener and the techniques you use.
@@ViperSharp thanks! I have a difficult time getting rid of the existing burr on one side without creating one on the other, even with the 1200 grit.....
@@mkt45acp I usually see that more with low quality steel but when you are dealing with a really fine edge, there is always that potential on a microscopic level. Sometimes it's as simple as just lightly pulling the edge over a piece of wood, letting the edge bite in a little bit. I picked up that trick somewhere along the line and it does seem to clean up the edge after completing the sharpening process.
Question sir. So correct me if im wrong. We use the lapping film last to get the sharpest edge. But we dont have a stone for that bcuz they r so fine they wudnt last like an aggressive stone which is why the films are disposable?
Ive sharpened with & without oil.. I will always use oil or water, Helps smooth it out no grabbing/sticking & Keeps the metal from sticking to the sharpener.. It is recommended to use diamond Wet with water if not oil works.. & If you have never ever used oil on them then you should use water on diamond.. But i am also into polishing stuff & you cant use sandpaper on like aluminum without water I mean you can but you would be in 20sheets dry to 2 wet, Seeing how much water works with sandpaper its an easy choice for me
No system can tell that accurately without a separate angle finder. I do have angle marks on the back of the inner riser that adjusts the angle but your angle changes based on the knife in the clamp. You can set the angle for a small blade for example and then leave the system at that angle but swap out to a larger chef knife and the angle changes. Keep this in mind when researching. If you want a specific angle, you can use an angle cube to help you get that and my system has a magnetic rod that goes into the stone carriage and will accommodate a magnetic angle cube which is also sold on the site.
Bought mine, good while ago. Love it still. I like the minor updates. The labels for the stone grit is nice, I ended up getting the dremel out and engraved the grit on the carrier plastic plate. The thumb screw for tightening the clamp is a nice update rather then the old (my) Allen head screw. Like the tool holder, I keep my Allen wrenches in the box with all my stones, havent lost them yet. The base seems to be far more refine and footed then my stone base. When I got my base the stone was rather "rough cut" to hold my system but tightened up for zero play. As 1st stated, had mine for about 2 or 3 years ago and simply love it and how well it performs. Last comment, never had I the experience to actually address the Inventer myself, directly. Not true with this product. I wanted to know what was used to attach stones to the stone carrier, he answered my question quickly and personally! That alone speaks volumes to me add that to its performance and I'd agree, this system stands KING in my book!
