@@buckdashe2571 races don’t want people reversing on the track. One to not cause more wrecks. 2 the safety of the marshals coming out on the track to get cars
that 10 car heat race at RJs was one of the best, cleanest races Ive seen with a traxxas car. I think the new MWM is a great car. I wont by one, but its a great car to bring in new people.
Is this over at trains and lanes hobby store ? Cause they have races on weekends on 2nd floor and this place look pretty similar to it cool beans i love RC cars
Since you posted it, I've been watching this video regularly. After a 30-year break from racing, the Traxxas Mudboss (modified) reignited my passion for racing and the RC hobby. I finally took the plunge and purchased one yesterday. Luckily, there's a race for newcomers at my local track this July 4th holiday weekend. Your helpful tips have been invaluable, as getting back into the hobby after such a long absence can be daunting. Thank you for this, and please keep these videos coming.
@@TXLonghorn_24 I had the same thing. Raced from 85-91. Then didn’t race again until ‘22. A lot has changed. But this is a great car to start with. One advice, drive this car hard! You’ll do better by running in deep and on the throttle, then backing off. Finally raced mine yesterday and after a few years of having to drive smooth with a loose car, it’s tough getting back into the hammer it mentality. Did alright but one of our locals really has the driving style figured out
@@BloodlineRC: I just completed the differential rebuild. Inside the diff itself with the spider gears - after cleaning, should I use silicone diff fluid (40,000) or white lithium grease? What would you recommend?
@@TXLonghorn_24 I don’t like a trans with diff fluid. I run it open. I’ve tried it. But I found it adds drag and slows me down. I just run the diff nut all the way down. For lubrication. Just light weight sewing machine oil. Or some 0/20 synthetic oil. These things barely wear. I’ve run the same parts for a year or two and didn’t have any wear issues. White lithium is fine. But it does defeat the purpose of cutting back on the drag caused by heavy grease. Typically we also clean out the bearings. Removing the heavy factory oil and putting in light oil made for rc bearings.
@@BloodlineRC Aaron or Kyle: Is there someone I can reach out to ask for a set-up sheet? I have a few more questions to ask as well. Can I reach out on Social Media or Email?
@@TXLonghorn_24 yeah. I’m working out some of the kinks. I took it for its second night of racing and it did pretty well. Hit us up on Facebook. Bloodlinerc and I’ll share my notes
Definitely not a Midwest modified you could call it a sport mod or a ump modified or A modified but it’s definitely not a Midwest modified because those are completely different style all together
The chassis and suspension are nothing like a real Midwest mod looks like a regular car chassis a arms in the rear real mods have a link suspension and bars
I use the exact oil but I add a zinc grease for bearings high friction an all metal to metal contact. I rub it on an get rid of any excess. Very small amount. It actually rolls better. I never add more after a rebuild... the grease penetrates the metal an coats it.
Heading to the store today. Should I get 2 TRX4 High Trails or 2 Mud Boss 2wd bl2s? We will eventually race short track if/when they allow the MudBoss. I don't see going bask to a Slash brushed motor..... The K10 and Ford should be good for Crawling AND Trails? Thoughts?
Off eBay. I’d recommend the foam buster from LCRC. That might cost more. But it’s going to last forever. These 3D printed ones don’t take a ton of abuse. A year of use and it’s ready to be replaced
❤ I was Lucky 🎉 I got my GREEN MudBoss, I told my Cuzzin, a week before, I want a Green car. I was Lucky I seen the Post two hours after it was posted , they are In. Dropped everything, half dressed, my sneakers Not tied, I ran out the door. 😂😊
These initial rule sets coming out calling for the stock radio to remain I think is a good idea. As this is generally geared more to a hobbies, as opposed to a hardened expert, think about how much spec classes, regardless of racing style get killed. Flourishes when the hobbyists get into it and then it gets killed when the experts come in and do what experts do. Crush. -U10
That’s what is going to happen unfortunately. Maybe in a month or two we will see new competitors come out. Guys without race experience. Right now, the only people I see running this class are veterans from the Mudboss class. The stock controller rule is great. But it does impose a limitation to left handed drivers. That’s a manufacturer problem though. Manufacturers need to consider the lefties.
@@BloodlineRC thank you for thinking of us ha! I’m a lefty and since 1987 driven with a right handed radio. There wasn’t much love back then either. -U10
@@Ultegra10SPD I’m a right handed guy, and I’ve seen plenty of left handers at the wheel. I don’t know how they manage to be as good as they are with how they have to hold the controller. It’s ridiculous traxxas doesn’t have a solution.
Apples and oranges, tune the midwest modified and dial it in, it will turn better with rx and servo upgrades/shock setup. It doesnt look bad out of the box to me.
I’ve run into serious issues with my new racer pushing into and out of corners.. almost seems like they need heavier springs. Have you run into the same issues?
@@user-zd5lv7jv2w yep. The car does push on entry and exit. I tried pushing the rear shocks to the outer holes on the a arm and the LF to the inner hole and the RF to the outer hole. That helped. Crank down on the RR shock collar and if that’s not enough, crank down on the left front. That should help make the push more manageable. The next thing we will try is heavier oil in the RR
