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Maybe so, but I couldn't know until I did it and the drains I put in are on every other type of boat so I felt good about them not leaking. Thanks for watching!
You could place that boat in the middle of Hell and it wouldn't dry out. ONLY ONLY ONLY way to dry out a wet boat or wet foam is to open it up and remove the damage. To clarify this.. I just cut a stringer out of a 69 mako that I have had the floor out for 5 years and the stringer was still wet with the 600 lbs of wet foam removed 5 years ago. I left the water melon like foam in a trailer covered in NC for the Summer and decided to check it months later,., Well it was still like a juicy water melon. I do give you an A+ for effort,. but Your headway did not match your efforts. These old boats rot like this because the water CAN NOT be extracted except by a total renovation. and most just won't do that. Even putting the boat in a Kiln will not pull that trapped water out of the foam,. And any state that has freezing weather just breaks more closed cells and the Cancer grows until you STOP it. I'm not going to put a percentage out but about all boats that sit out more than 1-2 years has water damage, add 15-20 years to that and you can probably do your own math as to how many boats are water logged to some degree. if not severely,.. The few boats kept under cover are the only survivors. I have tore 2 boats down, my neighbor had a NC Skiff, and after helping me on mine, when he got water from screws holding his transducer at transom,.,. he got rid of his boat. Cheers everyone.
yep...I agree with you..I was really just confirming my fears that the hull had water in it...there is no way to get all that water out without tearing it apart, but the boat wasn't worth it for me to consider that. Thanks for watching!
Capt. MacGyver you got my thumbs up. Thanks for doing something many of us would not attempt. The threaded brass fittings are a brilliant idea for future inquiry. I wonder if any attempt setting up a blower of sorts ( from a ducted fan to maybe hair dryer) to provide air flow over an extended period of time during off season may do some "drying" of the saturated foam. I also wondered about using some kind of low temp heat pads to help vaporize the water. Excellent video, I'm definitely doing this to my 21 DLX.
Here’s an idea. We all understand why a boats foam core should always stay dry, which is the same principle as a fiberglass surfboard. Years ago, my son had a used Lost Surfboard were you actually pumped in air through a recessed valve which pressurized the whole board for controlled riding stiffness. So I gave it a try and watched the pressure gauge leak down to zero very quickly. The surfboard didn’t have any open holes or cracks, so I shot some more air pressure in and sprayed some soap and water(like finding leaks on a tire) all around the board which produced several leaks from the various cracks. I made the appropriate repairs with no further leaks. I plan on trying this method on my son’s new/used 1968 Boston Whaler 13 and see what show up.
That's a brilliant idea. Getting the water out is a daring task on this 21 DLX , actually identifying the source of intrusion is priceless. Thanks for posting.
I stayed here on a company two night get away..the barn style think is in need of repairs first leve floors is soft very soft like fall thru soft.. everywhere..there is a book shelf or head board cut up and put under bed frame feet i get so it dont go thru floor toilet had a hack job floor repair.. the shower by stair case is nasty moldy lookin..roaches on the kitchen wall..other than that nice lay out im sure it was real nice 20 years ago or so there is a pop up camper there she rents out a regular tow behind camper set up..and a get together building..and a mobles home she rents out..but i would have left the night i seen the roaches..but i didnt have my own ride there..we car pooled there..
that is not a good move. you have to look up specs. you might have exposed wood now? only get worse now. you cant fill those holes in the transom like it was! deck inspection plates would have been a better solution on the cheap! or cut the floor out get rid of the foam. put a pad on the bottom. put new floor in. [ lots of options. ] go faster for free! . self drain too!
Is the boat in brackish or salt water? Stainless steel screws on a brass garboard will cause galvanic corrosion when immersed in salt water, which will corrode your drain.
Is this an issue I'd have to worry about on say a 2018 Carolina skiff 16 JVX? Never owned a skiff before and just want to be fully informed. Thanks in advance!
Economy polyester resins used in some boats are not impermeable to water. They absorb water from the bottom and top surfaces, particularly if the boat is left in the water or if the boat is outside and gets wet with rain. If you attempt to remove the water from the saturated foam the problem will continue unless you make the hull waterproof. Epoxy based bottom paint and epoxy topside paint will help seal the surfaces. Best bet is to buy a hull made with isophthalic polyester resin which is more waterproof than the cheaper orthophthalic polyester resin. You get what you pay for.
It worked out just fine...I am sure there was still some waterlogged foam, as it would have taken forever to dry completely, but I definitely feel like it was an improvement.
According to people I know, it is a problem with all Carolina Skiffs built back then. They were built like a surfboard but as soon as we start screwing into the floor to mount t-tops, consoles, casting platforms, leaning posts, there are tons of little places for infiltration and no way for it to get out.
Way better than RE...Himalayan has a top speed of 70 ish and this bike will easily top 90. Not that you need to go 90, but it's nice to not be running at max speed for a long period of time.
Hey whats the name of those brass drain plugs? And where can I find them? ...i have a 95 218...and im just gonna cut out the floor between the FG ribs and strip out the foam and reform and reglass the floor...but wanna install those brass drain plugs
I did mine the same way I got close to 5 gallons by letting it sit overnight then in the front floor I drilled and sealed air compressor hose I’ve been in the back I sealed the vacuum and I got another 12 gallons and four hours out
I got it from my dealer who cross referenced it with a Ninja 300. I don't remember how much it was but I had them install it and it was less than $100 installed.
Thanks for a fun video. We have a place near Section 2 and I’m fixin' to do Section 3 tomorrow so it’s good to have a preview. (We also have a place in Pittsboro, not too far from you.) Thanks again.
Hey Mike , you got a great looking versys 300x. quick question, are tire and tubes on this versys strong enough ? how often do you get any punctured tube ? do you have to take extra tire care stuff with you on long tours ? I am thinking to upgrade to versys 300x but kind of sceptic on having tubed tires
I rode the MABDR and there were a lot of sharp rocks that concerned me, but I never had an issue with the tubes or the Shinko 804/805s. I did carry an extra setup of tubes and some tools but never needed them. You can search RU-vid for several people who converted their rims to run tubeless with some 3M 5200 on the inside but I was leary to try that.
