All work carried out in a smallish garage by myself where I do everything from mechanical to paint and all with only a generator as a power source to show you can achieve good results if you put your mind to it.
Hi Stu, I did this same job on mine. Just fitting a gasket and it leaked oil. So had to remove and smear a bit of sealant around gasket on both faces. Also there's meant to be a metal shim between the input shaft bearing and that cover
Just looked up about the shim and your absolutely right but as you saw mine was no longer there so will have to work out what size I need. Wouldn't advise using any sealant though as that will mess up any figures you work out for the correct size shim 👍
Your video is valuable in that it shows a heater that seems to have most of the original foam and seals in place. I'm sure mine is missing some of that. I did find it a bit hard to understand your comments. I'm in the colonies.
If i remember rightly the wire wheel axle is narrower to allow for the wire wheels. A wire wheel axle had a not considerable value as a lot of people wanted to go from steel wheels to wire wheels. On the front you just fitted a wire wheel hub the king pin is the same. You are bringing back a lot of 30 year ish memory's. This I why I am enjoying this so much. Thanks.
@adrianrigby1933 me being me want to stick with the rostyles and believe it must have had wires at some point in its life hence it having the narrower axle. 👍
Seems like you might have the best of both worlds. I've read that to convert from wires to disk wheels, the studs on the brake hub need to be replaced with longer ones which yours might be. I wonder if there should be a spacer plate to keep the wheel centered in the wheel well? You could then easily switch from one style to another if you get bored with the looks. Personally, I prefer the classic look of wires and put 15 inchers on my 74 GT.
Personally I'm not a fan of wire wheels which I know may be controversial as I know a lot of people do. So will be swapping axles then selling off the shorter wire wheel one.
Top Work Stu. Great overhaul. Pity obout that rubber. You are in a country that supplies new panels and stuff for classic cars and yet you have issues, now imagine how it is here in S.A for parts🤣😢, whether rubbers to suspension components. Never mind panels. 🤣🤣 Top man , the car is coming beautifully together. Take care.
That would make sense. I've read something similar now. Be good if the suppliers could supply something that actually fitted though I shan't be removing it again. 👍
That's looking good. What are you going to use on the exhaust manifold. I need to use something on my P6B manifolds but to paint in situ, as i really don't want to remove them at this time. I never found anything that lasts once the heat gets going. Is it worth wire brushing and using a rust converter or do you think that will cause more problems than it will solve?
@tonypacke6954 when I done my p6 exhaust manifolds I just wire brushed them and the paint just brushed on and didn't burn off instantly. I'll have to look and see if I can find it on ebay. 👍
@@stusoldcars4248 I bought a small tin of Granville Cylinder Black, satin finish but haven't got round to using it yet. I'll be interested to see what you used though.
I've been looking but struggling to find it on my ebay purchases. I'll have a look next Saturday but it might even be the Granville stuff. It was a while ago.
Hiya Stu, im an absolute newcomer to car restoration and i've also got an MGB. Is there any chance you could do a quick video explaining mixing the primer and setting up the spray gun.
Hey Stu, that heater unit seems to be in a great condition.👌 At the rate that that fan blows, maybe you should consider routing some piping from the heater unit to the carburator and call it turbo charge assisted. 🤣🤣 Top video.👍
Hi Stu, you are right, as the saying goes" one don't scratch where it does not itch" and rightfully said as well. The chances of one replacing something that is working with the inferior products that won't last half the lifespan is quite rife in today's times. Only if needed, no choice then. Anyways, great video.👍
@nigeljohnson505 they certainly do. Hopefully get the rest of the little bits in black today then will be able to start putting them back in. Coming along though. 👍
Hi stuart, I left a comment about shimming the steering rack from memory. This video by John Twist the american mg man explains it all better than i can. I hope this helps. We used to find this and lack of kingpin end float made a lot of mgb steering very heavy. The customer was always pleased with the differance. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gIenGzrU02M.html
Sorry mate, pretty unwatchable video because of the camera movement. It would give me a headache to watch it end to end instead of skipping through it. But love the content however. Keep at it!
Hi Stu, great job, it certainly looks the part now, well done 👌. I was amazed at all the nooks and crannies in that engine bay. The green paint highlighted it for me as i could not see them beforehand. Plenty of detail as well. Anyways, you take care.👍
@skik6313 I would think with it being a 1970 car that more than likely it would of been cellulose. So no lacquer. I've used a single stage 2k paint though as it's a bit tougher. Thanks for watching. 👍👍
Having fitted a lot of steering racks to these cars many years ago you can get tight steering when fitting a new/re-built rack. The solution is to put shims, 20 thou shim steel was good i seem to remember. Fit the shims and have some one keep turning the steering wheel to see if it gets tight. On some racks they were shimmed up at the factory when built.If i remember rightly you often only had to shim one side. Lack of kingpin end float was the other reason for tight steering.
@adrianrigby1933 I did read that this was the case hence my slight suprise as was expecting shims to drop out when I unbolted the rack. I will be sure to check it's not tight when refitting and will definitely be refitting before putting the engine back in to make things easier. 👍👍
Hi Stu. Yeah, pulling the engine as inevetible was it not. It just gives one more space and makes sense. It is actually quite tidy in there. You have a gem there. Great video. Take care. 👍
This brought back many memories! Please remember to check the clutch release arm pin. I once fitted a clutch to my current mgb, put it all back together and about 3 days late the clutch stopped working. The engine had to come out again. The pin on the clutch release arm had seized.
@adrianrigby1933 I'll be sure to check all the clutch components before re installing the engine. Already noticed the clutch hose rubber feels soft so that'll have to be changed at the very least. It will get whatever it needs. Thanks for watching. 👍
On my 74 GT which I owned since 1980, the front leading edges of the wings were leaded in at the factory to match the bonnet. I also observed that the two front leading edges are not symmetrical. Maybe it was because they were leaded in by hand at the factory. Also, on mine, there were only 2 (maybe 3) square washers on each wing near the windscreen. The remainder of the wing used round washers. Enjoyed your video, thanks.
@David-wy9jl thanks for the info. They probably used whatever they had to hand back then. Thinking about it a couple of the larger oval washers had green paint on so they were probably on there but from what I can make out there for the horrible ones under the dashboard. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching. 👍
Hi Stu. She is looking good, seems like this ones body will be done relatively quickly, i don't know if i missed anything but she seems to be quite solid, hardly any rust. Anyways, you take care. 👍
You didn't miss anything. There was literally no rust just welding to rectify so bad previous repairs. Like you say should come together fairly quickly.
You have a nice rust free solid car. Good look with it. Having had two of these many years ago. I am enjoying this. It brings back memories of lots of welding.
@adrianrigby1933 I'm very lucky with how rust free it is and to be honest that's part of the reason I took it on after the many hours welding the rover.
@markallen8256 cheers. It's been a real mission to get it this far and still have the wings, doors, bonnet and tailgate to strip and epoxy yet but it's getting there and is a good base now. Thanks for watching. 👍👍
Great job, Stu. Progressing swiftly. Getting the epoxy on whilst the weather is dry is a good move. It will allow you to get on with the 101 other jobs in the winter. See you next weekend, hopefully. ❤❤
Hi Stu. Man, that's a mission that you are on, i know that my time will be coming with my projects, so thank you for giving me an in sight 😁😁. Thanks for the video and take care. 👍
@mpe6678 it was a long horrible dusty day getting it all stripped. Especially the roof. Glad it's out the way though. Only other big ish panel to strip will be the bonnet. The doors have been replaced so should be less coats of paint hopefully. Thanks for watching and take it easy. 👍👍
