Would a worn cam cause a dead spot at lower throttle. I have a 97 Scrambler 500 and ive replaced everything but the engine internals and i still have this issue. I tried 2 brand new carbs and the boot isnt cracked. Air box is good. Everything else is brand new. I dont know the symptoms of a worn cam.
@@robertholsopple9451 no typically a worn out cam will idle and have fairly good throttle response at low RPM. It just won’t rev up it just because of valves aren’t opening to give it enough airflow but typically no , a flat cam or a compromised cam will function pretty good up till about three or 4000 RPM and will backfire a lot too but , won’t have a dead spot off idle. What kind of carburetors are you putting on there OEM because the original OEM carb usually never needs replacing just change out the wearable parts and then you tune it for your elevation
@@robertholsopple9451 well, the engines running do you have black smoke that comes out the tailpipe when you punched the throttle or is it clean or does it backfire there’s more to just a dead spot usually you have too much fuel or not enough fuel, just have to determine which it is and adjust accordingly
Hi there, yeah so the front axle nut torque is 75 foot pounds, and that axle spline and thread protector. Is actually an old Ford seal driver it’s made out of aluminum so really you could go down to your machine shop and you can have one made out of aluminum but that’s actually just an old Ford spindle seal driver
No not exactly, the ecu stored the hours, and the new instrument cluster shows that , but not the miles. Luckily I didn’t have that many miles on it before it failed so it’s still pretty close.
Usually, it’s about $50-$60 per boot and usually costs $75-$100 to have a repair shop change it. Depends on how long the boots have been torn whether the axle is worth replacing or not.
@@allwegottadois okay thanks for the reply wish I had someone like you around me who worked on four wheelers all I have are big name shops that want an arm and a leg just to look at it
@@javiercuevas2697 you can go to Polaris parts browser online and look them up yourself or you can call the nearest Polaris dealership and have your Vin ready and they can look up the shims for you.
What about that little ring you had to spread? You didn’t put it back or it’s wrapped around before you popped it in? I’m a greenhorn here trying to do my own work
If you are referring to the ring in the cv joint it lives and is retained in the joint and you are just releasing it from the groove in the end of the axle.
I had to use a come along on both sides hooked to a T post I pushed deep into the ground with the skid loader, then when it was super tight I hit the fence post with a sledge and got one side out. Then I just hammered the other out from the other side
If you have any trouble with axles not coming out, soak and turn them & repeat with Blaster (some brand of penetrating oil ) May even for a day or so .. so you don’t ruin your bearings or your case of your seals. A good soaking will make them come out way easier.
The overhead speaker amplifier has a AV jacks for extra speakers, and also the head unit ride command has extra plugs for speakers too, I ran extra speaker wires when I had the roof off when installed the steel roof, I ran extra power wires and just deadheaded some extra light wires to for adding Stuff on later.
Today, following a ride I noticed oil leaking from underneath my 2019 NorthStar. After lifting the bed I noticed the front oil line on the back of the AC compressor leaking pretty good, apparently the nut had become loose. I tightened the hose fitting at the compressor and it stopped leaking but now the AC is blowing hot.. Any ideas? I’ve been looking all over RU-vid and the internet and I’m not coming up with anything.. when I noticed the leak, I also hears a “hissing” sound like aire escaping from something, must have been the compressor..
Sounds like the ac hvac lines have a leak, you have to get the lines or leak fixed, have dye added to the system to make sure it’s fixed & then have the system evacuated & recharged
@@allwegottadois see thing is iv done cleaned the carb 2 times thinkin that was the issue before this happened bc it was bogging terrible but it wasnt.
Great video! Makes thing so easy. I can only hope mine go so easy. A couple of questions. I have a 2002 Sportsman 700 that has the gear side boot ripped open. Since these are the original boots, I am looking to replace both boots while the axle is off. Can I just slide the gear side boot off the wheel side while I have it disassembled or do I need to remove the inboard joint? Also, where did you get the “parrot” pliers and tube of grease? TIA
Thank you for taking the time and sharing your expertise. This is exactly what I needed to see before I start replacing rear boots and bushings on my son's 2004 late Polaris Sportsman 700 EFI Twin. Have you made other videos pertaining the 2004 Polaris Sportsman 700 EFI ? For instance replacing fuel pump; servicing and flushing radiator; changing all the fluids (transmission, front and rear gearcase, engine oil). Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment, those are great ideas for videos though. I should , I have similar Atvs here to cover those topics, thanks for the feedback. Have him help you so he knows how, or if you supervise that’s always better lol
@@allwegottadois I have a 2015 570 fullsize and I hook maybe a 5x10 stock trailer to the back. When towing it, it feels sluggish. Not sure if I'm suppose to step on it
@ovoxo5793 look at Gilomen industries on the web, put in your make and model and see what they offer for your ranger as in clutch kits and upgrade, but the best thing you could do for yours is put a duraclutch system in it. That’s what I had in that 900 XP for towing and it makes your ranger a whole new animal.
PSN engines / www.Powersportsnation.com is where I got mine, or you may have to send your engine in if they don’t have a core, and they’ll rebuild yours , or rev6engines out of Utah
You made that look too easy😅. Thanks for the information. I'm currently resurrecting a 2002 sportsman 400 and finding out the fun of working on a 20 year old machine which was so far maintenance free 😆
Thank you for the positive feedback. I hope it helped. Yeah I’ve just been working on these things for so dang long. I don’t want to miss it but sometimes I rebuild them in my sleep. Lol
It is a Polaris system, and you just need to go to a Polaris dealer and look at prices & availability. They make several different versions. One is light duty system that you use a winch and manual tilt. Or this version, which is the heavy duty pro which you can purchase as a system, but I think the controller and relay kit is a separate purchase.
No , & I had to clean up the oil, I should of drained it before because I ended up draining & changing the oil & oil filter anyway. It was filthy when it arrived, & looked like it hadn’t been changed in a long time.
Look up tour model in a parts diagram, & that will give you a layout, I just purchased an online service manual, not an owners manual service manual for about 30 bucks and their step-by-step on how to work on your model
Sorry I don’t know, I’m a Polaris Technician, I do work on all brands, but not as familiar with that model and I don’t have a manual on that one. You can purchase online service manuals for about 30 bucks. That’s what I do every time I get something different that I don’t have. I just purchased a service manual and they usually walk you through things step-by-step.
Sorry I don’t have a link, but I know they were purchased on Amazon. get the length and width you want and that should be easier to search by description.
Because they are a sealed bearing, and you can damage the seal if you try. Once you hurt the seal it won’t last long….There are tools that you can grease them with, but usually you do more harm than good, (just replace the bearing)rather than trying to grease it because more than likely if it needs grease it’s too late to save it anyway.
One other reason is if you get too much grease in the cavity where the bearing assembly goes remember you sandwich the bearing in the carrier with the axle and torque it to a certain specifications & there is nowhere for the extra grease to go and you can hydraulically break the housing/ carrier or whatever when you torque it down.
Do it before moisture and dirt gets in there or you’re gonna be replacing the whole axle, although you can replace the whole axle for not much more, 🤷♂️
Great video. I’ve been struggling with a 2017 Ranger XP 1000. Same issue (one time was after the dealership serviced it). I like your fix and I will also share what worked for me. I used a gum sealing slug and rolled it into about a quarter inch bead on the top and bottom of the foam gasket of the filter. It worked great - just takes a little more time to change the filter.
Thank you for putting up these videos. I'm doing the same thing. fun fun fun. Lol. Can you tell me what thickness of the foam? Look like 1 inch? Thank you.
I did sound deadening throughout the complete cab. Roof, back panel, tunnel, storage trays, firewall. Even went so far to loosen the power steering motor. It took around 50 hrs to do it all.
I have not played with the plow mode yet, I only recently got the plow control feature when I updated my ride command software ,which was way after the snow season last year.
They’re actually all just really cheap Amazon lights, but I tell what they are nice and bright. I love them. 44 / 45 inch combination roof flight, and Slim, narrow side lights, and then some pot lights for the rear. The front 13 inch light bar on the bumper is a combination flood spot amber light.
Well, just like anything if it’s not loud enough to your liking, and you’re a techie, you can always put in a bigger, amplifier. I personally love it but I have terrible hearing and the first thing that your doctor said if you don’t put a bunch of money into a good stereo system because I wouldn’t be able to hear it but I can hear this one just fine even when I’m trying in fact most time on I run it on 2 to 4 on my loudness setting so there you go.
@mossman381 well I don’t think that’s true because seven or eight and it’s obnoxiously loud. I see what I’ll try to make a video of it and send it to you but it’s not like the greatest Soundsystem but it’s not bad.
@@allwegottadois Those reviews are a year old and older. Maybe Polaris changed something. I am not looking for a great sound system. Just wanted a little more sound when going down the road with engine noise. And get some more switch blanks at the same time. I just didn't want to spend that kind of money and be disappointed with Polaris again.
@@allwegottadois So I was out playing with the radio in my ride command, and it needs to be at 7 just to hear good using the factory lower front speakers and the heater fan on one. That is just idling and not running down the road at speed. Not sure how you can hear it at 2-3 unless you are just sitting there with everything off?
They are sealed bearings so you can’t grease them but I did put some copper anti-seize on the axle stub shaft where it goes through the bearing to help keep corrosion down and disassembly later.
