Very kind you to say. I agree. It’s great stuff 💪🏼👍🏼

Thanks. It doesn’t happen very often. But Im really enjoying being able to stand up in this one 😁

If you were building a new house or extension you would need a u value of at least 0.18 W/m2k for walls (eg:130mm thick foil backed insulation). However this doesn’t apply when working on older properties existing walls 👍🏼

@@DanLee40 oh wow, does that go for my 1950’s cavity wall semi detached? Was thinking of adding EWI, but didn’t think I could as low as 50mm.

I’m not an expert on building regulations so if you have genuine concerns I’d contact a local building surveyor or architect. Certainly in my experience you could add any thickness of External Wall Insulation to your property. If possible 100 mm over your existing walls will likely give you the u value of current new build standards. It’s worth noting that any thickness of external insulation would also help massively to protecting your properties walls and keeping them damp free for much longer than traditional rendering. So they are more benefits than just increasing the u value 😁 I hope that helps.

@@DanLee40 definitely, thanks mate.

Thanks 👍

I appreciate that. Thank you 👍🏼

It’s a specialist damp proof render for areas below damp course or exposed to extreme moisture. Very expensive stuff but very good stuff too 👍🏼

Thank you. We use a lot of Orange Render Tape. The cheapest I’ve found it is from CES Hire ces-hire.com/product/blue-dolphin-rough-surface-masking-tape-orange-48mm-x-50m/ EWI Store sells it too. Selco also sells it but both are more expensive.

@@DanLee40 Many thanks

Nice work!

Thank you, that’s very kind of you to say. You are quite right, using bonding coat on the curves does work really well. For me on this occasion I wanted to keep the curves as sharp as possible so I chose to use multi finish to highlight the curves more. I hope that helps 👍🏼

@@DanLee40 Ok Daniel, thanks for the feedback. Happy spreading ! 😄

The main benefit of the spray machine is the overall ease on the body. Im sure you could apply the lime render by hand as quick, at least on small areas. But your body will tire much quicker when applying by hand.

However when spraying on the thin coat renders it’s definitely much easier and quicker, for me at least.

7:55 minutes in the video is a full description of the lime render we used 👍🏼

@@DanLee40 👌

Thank you very much.

You certainly can top coat the next day if you prefer. It works pretty much the same as traditional sand and cement render. Just a higher quality product, in my humble opinion 👍🏼

Thanks 😊

Thanks. The working time is around 90 minutes. As with most external renders the weather has a huge influence on how it drys. It’s quite similar to traditional sand and cement render. A bit stickier perhaps. I recommend giving it a go. Easy to mix, lovely to apply. You still want to apply 2 passes (scratch coat and top coat). The scratch coat should harden in 1 - 2 hours then you can get the top coat on straight away. Great for small jobs 👍🏼

We used a string line to make sure the line matched up both sides then used a spirt level and a margin trowel the exact size of the line. I hope that helps 👍🏼

Thank you for your great comment 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼

Wetherby / k render / stow. Defo issue samples mate. Like yer style all the same 👍💯🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Thanks for the info Dan👍

I certainly think so. It should work really well 👍🏼.

@@DanLee40 Cheers, and by the way Dan do you just use one size chisel for the complete removal or change over for different parts of the wall ? asking on behalf of a novice😁

It’s a type of exterior finish in the Uk. Primarily a sand and cement based product that protects the walls of the house from the external elements.

@@DanLee40 isn't that called stucco

@@DanLee40 isn't that called stucco

What spray machine are you using mate ?

@@larryravago4304not in England. But I believe it is basically the same thing, yes. 😂

We were called in to finish the job for a customer as they weren’t happy with the renders that started the job. The scratch coat was really poorly applied. It was very lumpy and it took a lot of extra render to straighten the walls . They also rendered passed the damp course with out putting in a break in the render. Effectively bypassing the damp course and making it useless. This render had to be removed and a new beads with a full strip of sealant applied to maintain the damp course and allow us to render to the floor .

Thanks!

Thank you, I will do my best 😇

It’s a great product, very user friendly. Below is a link to the product. ewistore.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/EWI-747-Lime-Render-3.5.pdf

@@DanLee40 oh it's an NHL. I tend to stick to hot lime although have used NHL 2.

😁💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼

Good video bud. What did you use to block the self levelling running onto those pipes in the corner?

@@MarcusT86 Thank you. I actually used a thick bead of rapid set mastic glue. It’s works a treat and is easy enough to peel off after the leveling compound has hardened. www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwixxMaw2-iFAxX-lFAGHZkxA2cYABAcGgJkZw&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIscTGsNvohQMV_pRQBh2ZMQNnEAQYDCABEgIFofD_BwE&sph=&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASJuRoR8zsFITULwgg7OF_Gwq7n1GbyzeVV3uQCfe9T9FknNWxvbA_&sig=AOD64_2G-Vvt2E_K1X77XNiiv1rD5HvXqQ&ctype=46&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjpuL-w2-iFAxXfRUEAHZIsA9kQzzkoAHoECAMQVw&adurl=

@@DanLee40 thanks buddy. Could this be used as a stop between rooms, and then remove it later to carry on levelling the next room? I want to get all my downstairs one even level.

It definitely works. You could also use a bit of wood (roofing battens or something similar) if you prefer.

Thank you very much. It’s a relatively new product from EWI . They sell a base coat / adhesive lime render, NHL 5. Then the NHL 3.5 traditional Lime render. Cheak out their website. Link below. ewistore.co.uk/shop/external-wall-insulation/lime-basecoat-nhl-5-ewi-748-21kg/

Thank you very much