I found one at a flea market today. Pat apl'd for, no serial #. I grabbed it for $5.00. it has a bent tooth on one corner but the plate is nice . Mine has no case or blade bank
@@kcb5150 It has 3 teeth slightly bent, 2 on a corner and on the other side, it has a little bendon a center, tooth. BUT it has all its teeth. :) I will be posting some pictures on collectors weekly. I will link it here. You might have to sign up but its free
If they aren't overly bent I have successfully straightened teeth with a mix of annealing the brass and very gentle persuading with flat slats of wood. Not something to learn on a no serial old type but on something common a good skill to learn. I actually fixed a NEW last week. Took a little while but they are all straight now
I was given a santoku victorianox for free at a local garage sale. Logo isn't as great as yours. The softer steal is better for stones. Way better for kitchen stuff. Those super hard knives require diamonds stones. Great knife. Mine is mirror polished edge and mineral oiled down handle. Looking for a practice knife to do a handle char.
Yeah, I really prefer knives with steel like this in the kitchen. It's nothing to top off a knife that isn't overly hard and it's more forgiving if I hit some bone or whatever. I can put this on an old washita and get it sharp as hell for the kitchen no problem.
I got one similar; mine is really brown, very fine. Not worth a hoot for one stone honing but a fine finisher. I will be watching for your listing. Good stuff
I have lots of really fine brown ones but this one isn't in that boat. A badger member in UK has one almost identical that he found idk where that behaves in a pretty similar manner
Hi. Probably not. Waffling between listing a few different high cost ones rn you know where as I just bought another boxed barber's delight this afternoon and would rather cancel out the spend partially. I have another one I am going to put a video up for later that I bought from Period Woodworker's legendary stash he cashed out on from years ago. Only issue is I have $300 in that one. A 4x2 coti is going up for sure tomorrow along with an 1800s pike translucent with the green sperm oil label.
Afternoon. Share your interest in stones and recently came upon an identical HM8. Was confused why the stone didn't easily slip from the box. Realize now, it's been glued... Have you had any success in perhaps destroying the box but getting some solvent down there that might let the stone release from the wood without doing all the damage/tear out? A second similar stone was recently brought home; would love to lap. Any suggestions? The usual silicon carbide from Lee Valley on a glass plate and some time? Last question! Do you have a sense of the grit rating of these translucent stones? The equal of a black or translucent from Dan's these days? I have only begun to shapen with them but have been underwhelmed with the results. Perhaps my progression isn't sufficient (Norton India fine to this) or I'm just not quite hitting the apex...regardless, I'm delighted to have picked them up and add them to the mix. Appreciate your channel and enthusiasm for this (very!) niche interest. ;)
Unfortunately, a lot of the time the glue they used was some sort of synthetic glue that is brutally strong and if you force it it can and will tear out horrible amounts of material sometimes more than 1/4". Some rare times you luck out and it is hide glue which gels back up with heat and moisture. Usually there is some slack around the perimeter of these and you should know quickly if warm water (and if you go that route warm it up slowly) is loosening things. If that fails and you just want rid of the box I would knock the sides off of it and just grind through the bottom of the box till I hit the adhesive and stone. These old Norton and pike translucent stones can have a specific gravity that only the surgical black Dan sells can approach. As for performance, they are lap and surface prep sensitive. If you want more cut out of it you will need to keep a surface roughed to a more matte surface in between uses otherwise it will burnish. What I like to do with all Arkansas stones is keep one side more matte for cut and let the other side wear in for polish. There's a pretty large gap in fine was between a fine India and a trans ark. A fine India is like 600? It's hard to equate the ark to his grit because all Arkansas are the same particle size, it's just how tightly packed in they are that determines grade hence specific gravity is the measure. They obviously shed some grit when they wear in but they almost cut more like a file.
@@kcb5150 Thanks for the reply. I don't typically look that closely...I realize the removal of the previous stones marks is considered gospel but, I typically don't fuss it too much; often finishing (and happy with 1K grit or so)...I've also gone from an old Smith's Washita; knives come off that with an edge I like MORE than what I'm getting off the translucent. The India is a nominal 600 grit but finishes better than that. I have a bit of a gap in stone options hence the question of if you thought the Norton was a 4000...6....8000? I'm intrigued by what the potential is with a stone like this but perhaps I'm rushing things and making too big a jump. As you alluded to in your other comment if this is in fact comparable to a Dan's Black....well I'm delighted. I don't know how I found these at all, let alone two in < a month! Treasured. :)
@@kcb5150 Magnificent comment. Thank-you for the expertise. The one that is as new in the box is TIGHT in there. I was so confused that the friction fit was holding it that well...I'll assume the worse and that this is the industrial strength glue. I'm still attached of the "as new, in box" look but should the time come, noted on your suggestion. Don't want to do deep damage the surface. Appreciate the suggestion of matte vs polish. I see these as polish stones vs one stone options, perhaps like a soft ark that might flex into double duty. Are you doing this as a hobby or a re-seller?I have the sense that you catch and release these vs. keep them on a shelf. Wanted to re-up the question of lapping. The more used stone has some wear though the middle. I fear this is going to be some sort of 10 hour marathon to resolve and would be better off just using as is.
Oh I have a tremendous number of stones I keep but I don't keep them all. I probably have somewhere between 2 and 300 rocks and a lot of that represents many years of comparative use and culling so what I have is really top end stuff. I tend to recondition and sell a lot of arkansas stones though as I have more than I will ever get through.
I am sure you can find one. This really needs the key as the key is needed to change the hour and minute hands as well from the front. I'm just very key poor when it comes to pocket watches rn unless I come across some in storage.
I have had a coupe of shaves with it since I shot that video. One with a Vokshod, One with an old red Personna. It's a very mild razor as super speeds tend to be but this one definitely has superior drainage to the typical solid guard bar imo going by how it reacted to two days of growth and rinsing vs how a solid bar would for me. It has a bit more audible feedback than a regular flare tip and a bit more blade feel as well. I actually prefer it to the standard flare tip but if I were in charge of them at the time I can understand why they didn't sell it given the gain is so marginal for a design radically different to everything else they were producing back then.
Like the coins and watches and things? Helping liquidate some stuff for family. If you're into de razors at all I will post something really cool to see either tonight or tomorrow.
Just make sure you move to fixed grit after the silicon carbide as it will leave the stone slightly humped with the corners low. That or stop at intervals and hit it in between on fixed grits to limit how bad the convexity from the powder gets.
Yes, shortsighted people only see some antiques for the value of the components not the whole. The value of these fully intact would far exceed that of the scrap value. I'd like to think it happened long ago, at least as some solace.
Gilette came out with a Heritage run a few years ago of the 1929. Came in a leather case similar to that one. No metal bank sadly. I happened to scoop one up one night and have yet to ever see them restock. Would love to get another. The old ones have shot up in value so much lately.
Yeah it was nice they made a DE for our market again but that head had more in common with merkur or Edwin Jagger than Gillette. You can get a vintage long comb new for a song if the gold wash isn't great.
Those are both great razors, very tiny handles though. They corrected those horrible blade stops that stood up like fence posts and raked the skin. A type I would probably be preferable if you had bigger hands as the handle is quite grippy and slightly meatier albeit with similar ergonomics. The pick of the litter for me on injectors is the M dial adjustable.
If you can find one on there the Shumate curved tungsteel is one of the most undervalued straight razors relative to performance. It's hollow ground with a big smile for an American straight razor and extremely effective.
You should be able to get one for 20ish. It's like a poor man's sk3. The absolute best american straight imo is the Cattaraugus Green Lizard 131 model. Has to specifically be the smiling 131. 131 will be on the tail somewhere and the lizard etch on the blade. People have gotten wise to this fact unfortunately and they have gotten spendy
