Diamondback Archery is a family owned and opened business. We are committed to excellence and use only the finest quality materials available. Each bow is custom made, one at a time and designed for ultimate performance at affordable prices. Beauty, speed, accuracy. Customers can choose everything so they are truly one of a kind.
I have been designing and building bows since 1994. I have had a lifelong passion for hunting and archery, and have won several local tournaments and competitions with Diamondback bows. As I continue to pursue my love for archery, I am strongly committed to quality conscious, detail oriented, handcrafted bows.
Feel free to call or email with any questions. We look forward to making your next bow. www.diamondbackarchery.com james@diamondbackarchery.com (417) 628-3276
Greetings from Aotearoa, New Zealand, I am finding your video very helpful, I've been making my own bows for a while now but have always had the strings made for me, I feel could have a go at making my own string if I follow your vid! Do you think there is much advantage in a three bundle string over a two bundle, thanks..
great video, my question is, why do you make both loops the same size, I have always seen strings with the top loop a little bigger than the bottom. Top loop slides over the limb when bracing and unbracing.
A very misleading video when talking about arrow spine....this dude is a left handed archer and so the "arrow left/right" would be reversed for the more common right handed archer. Also it is not so much about whether the bare shaft is left or right but rather if the nock is left or right.
I noticed you didn't put any counter-twist in the separate bundles before making the second loop, like I see people do in most tutorials. How does the bundles end up when the string is finished? I'm going to try this method next time I need a new string. Do you have any tips on why and how to fix uneven bundle length after the first loop? I always seem to have that problem. Probably something to do with uneven twisting of the bundles? Cheers from Norway!
Hello! I'm not sure what you are referring to. I make both loops the same way - twist to the right and go over the left. Maybe you can point me to a time frame in the video so I can help.
It's just something I've seen in many flemish twist tutorials. Before they start the second loop, they put counter-twist into both bundles, so that when the string is finished, the bundles join together into one string, and not two separate strings twisted together. English is not my first language, so it's easier to show you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9iTI--H5FdE.htmlm46s for example. :)
Great vids. I like this version a lot better than the one I'm using now ( with a hundred nails ). That and I'm always looking for an excuse to go to that big orange home improvement store.
Thanks for the wonderful information but i want to know how i have to treat my old long recurve bow, if i have to oil it or anything that i can applied to, thanks for any help.
Glad you like the video. As far as care for your old bow, if it has a finish on it, it should be fine. If you want to refinish it, I recommend fuller plast varnish. Avoid using lacquer because it tends to crack...it doesn't bend well. Hope this helps.
Wow, this took the mysticism out of the whole tuning thing. Got me a Sammick Sage and it came freshly packed with no earthly idea of how to tune it. I didn't even have the brace height figured in or the string twisted (shows how much I know). The recurves I've shot have always been pre-tuned already, like my Dad's Bear from the 1970's. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video!
Good video! For a left hand bow, if the spine is too weak the bare shaft will strike to the right of the fletched arrows? - and too stiff the fletched to the right of the bare?
And another one: it's been told that first correct spine problem (that is horizontal mismatch), but you started with vertical adjustment. Comments pls.
