I'm sorry everybody. I'm retired from stained glass in 2018. I was basically self-taught, then visited the studio of Gabriel Loire in Chartre to learn some more techniques
Thank you for this informative video! I'm finding for myself, that even with a 1/2" bed of sand, my epoxy is seeping a bit beneath my dalles, sometimes a small film is making it under the glass, sometimes a bit more. Is this because I'm pouring too soon, and the epoxy is too runny? Should I be waiting another 30 minutes for it to cure, thereby making it a bit thicker and not penetrating as deep into the sane? Thank you!
I'm not sure what you mean. The Romans used wood to hold pieces of glass together. Later using lead because it was more flexible. This dalle method was developed in the early part of the 20th century to work with very thick pieces of glass.
@@angelasanders5532 so did Gabriel Loire in the 1950s and 60s but the mortar he used had a different coefficient of expansion from the embedded glass. Over time the windows leak as the glass separates from the mortar. The epoxy doesn't have this problem. It has the same COE as the glass.
Your work is really amazing, I would like to ask you how to solve the epoxy resin penetrate the bottom of the sand, stick to the glass smooth to the back, this is too difficult to clear the
DD V panels are usually installed in aluminum frames because they are an inch thick. we have used storefront aluminum and frames made especially for stained glass. I've also seen it installed Instone frames. the panels are heavy. usually 10 to 12 pounds per square foot
Just came across this video.seem like a very complex way to fabricate we still use the 2 pour system which we developed in the late 50th In New York City in collaboration with Jean Barillet in Paris France. Saw cut edges is a fast way to cut but creates a dull effect the edges should be hand faceted for the light to reflect into the interior. Top faceting should only be used for highlights to much of it looks like an over exposed photo destroys the character of the design. www.duvalstudio.com
Dear shaju, I've never added anything other than the "granules." They come in at least two sizes, one like sand and the other like crushed pebbles. But when I was in Spain I saw ddv panels made with beach sand and small shells. And I've never used anything but 116. I've done panels in 3 different colors, "charcoal," "concrete," and "limestone." Didn't notice any difference among them. You know the problems with trying to use portland cement. Don't. The only way we've been able to get a flat rear face is with the "two-pour" method. The surface of the dalles is too uneven to try to rest the glass on a smooth surface and make a single-pour of it. If you want a perfectly smooth face, (ie no texture or granules on one side) you could put a very thin coating of sculpey on each piece of glass and "stick" it down on a piece of lexan or glass, but BE SURE to paint release agent on the lexan. If you don't your lexan will become a permanent part of your panel :) We tried pouring granules between the pieces of glass 1/8" deep before doing a single pour. That worked pretty well, but in some places the epoxy seeped though the granules and the panel had a "sometimes-smooth, sometimes-rough" final appearance that I didn't like. Went back to a double pour. When you flip the panel over for the second pour, remember that you need to have good dams: The epoxy is will find its way into ANY tiny crevice. It is is much more liquid than portland cement. Your dam needs to be very tight. We often use caulk to make sure. I've not had any problem with heat production but you do need to keep the studio warm enough for the panels to cure 48 hours at least. Don't stand them up on end before that time or you will find that they bow just enough to make them very hard to install :) We color the sculpey because it isn't possible to "completely" remove it from the tiny crevices. But if you don't use something like sculpey (clay didn't work well--not sticky enough) you will certainly have the epoxy there--and it is even harder to remove. :) Hope this helps. --zig
+zigzeigler thank you very much indeed. Re flat rear face - I notice in the cross section of the old resin that I have here there is much more 'aggregate' in the resin, he's done two pours, one on top of the other though - I'm thinking this might have enabled the flat surface at the rear as it is likely to have been much less fluid. I see lots of testing coming up!
zigzeigler thank you Monsieur Duvall. I agree with everything you say. we saw the dalles because the glass is so expensive and we'd lose so much to wastage. we do the single poor method because we have a small studio and it's difficult to turn the windows over for a second pour. Once you get used to it a single pour method is not too complex.
Thanks for this, its an excellent video! I have a few queries - have you worked with other epoxies and added your own fillers? Is the Key resin #116 the go to resin for dimensional stability, UV inhibition etc. With bed of sand at 7/16th deep, you mention the resin seeps in approximately 1/8th inch in - does this result in the resin being proud of the glass at the rear? I am after a flat rear face. Also is heat production upon curing ever an issue, particularly if the glass has suffered in the past and exhibits blind cracks. Lastly, you mention you add oil paint to the Sculpey, can I ask why? Can the Sculpey be totally removed from a 'sanded' front face or are there fine residues remaining caught in the fine crevices. Thank you so much in advance
Thanks Carlo! We have added a refinement. We used to put "rubber cement" on the faceted glass BEFORE we covered it with the sculpey, thinking that would help prevent epoxy from getting on the surface of the glass. We found that it doesn't make any difference, and so we are now saving cleaning time by not using the rubber cement at all.
Do you have to apply sculpy to the new side of glass once the frame is turned over to fill with epoxy? Or, do you just have to pour the epoxy carefully so as to not get it on the glass face?
You need to put sand between the pieces of glass too or else the epoxy will ooze UNDER the glass and ruin the piece. LET IT HARDEN AT LEAST 24 HOURS! Then turn the panel over and pour the other side. When you turn it over you are pouring epoxy into the spaces where the sand used to be. If the glass is 1" thick then the sand comes about half way up the piece of glass. When you turn it over that first time the sand falls out and you need to replace it with epoxy.
