Sorry man but This isn’t a gun comparison this is a nozzle size comparison. You even acknowledge this in the video. I was really interested to see if the HTMR gun was worth it but this comparison is pointless. Get the same size nozzle for each gun then it will be a worthwhile review.
I have an Ingersoll Rand Ss5L5 which is a little over 18 CFM. I’m basically right next to the compressor and the noise is loud but reasonable . I say reasonable because prior to this I had a smaller oill free compressor which made a tremendous racket. Honestly, if the IR was on the other end of my shop, it wouldn’t bother me at all.
6 42 pound weights on the back plus 100 pounds of wheel weights give or take is basically 350 pounds. Add another 50 for the weight rack and I’d call it 400.
I just successfully did this. 1/2” thin wall piece of copper pipe about 3.5” long. Get the seal out, then slip the pipe over the shaft down onto the bearing. Beat down on the pipe with small hammer and the bearing will push down and fall out the bottom. Worked like a charm. Bearing will slide down and be loose on the shaft and then you can work the shaft out at an angle through the bottom.
Bought for my Yamaha Viking side by side. Lasted less than six months and wouldn’t take a charge. Had bike tested and no electrical problems. Put $110 lawn motor battery and everything is good. Very disappointed in the NoCo battery. Waste of money
My Swytch kit is scheduled to arrive next month so I'm watching a lot of install videos. Biking has been my primary transportation mode since the 90s. I do basic maintenance but I've never changed a tire, thanks for taking the time to show the details. I really liked the surprise ending when Sheila rides out of the gray garage into the beautiful green neighborhood.
It’s a Robbins top from Moss Miata. It’s still great, no leaks or issues of any kind. Note that we also have a hard top and don’t drive the car in the winter here in NY.
Dude - you're a life saver! Spent literally weeks trying to get a roll pin out of the shift lever of a 1966 T-Bird. Your method had it out in about 20 seconds!
I have had this a couple of times. I think modern chargers too clever. Simply put on old fashioned charger for a few minutes, or jump with another battery. Then swop back to a lithium charger. I wouldn’t leave them long/or unsupervised though!
For the first step (3:15 mark), what current level was set for the preparing the plating solution? I used a quarter amp just as a starting point, but might that be too low? Thanks!
Going to try this method out. I like KISS! 60 year old hardware from a well weathered Sunbeam Tiger front suspension. I used Klean-Strip (phosphoric acid based) to remove the last bits of rust after wire brushing as you showed. Otherwise my setup is now the same as in the video. I'll drop a comment on the results in a day or so.
little clock would draw uA of power, not the issue. the battery will have a BMS circuit trying to keep the batteries in balance, that takes a small amount of power. over time it will drain the battery. there are smart BMS circuits with auto cutoff at 2.5V/cell to protect the battery but maybe not this one. best to charge the battery to 80% every month while in storage/not in use.
LiPo batteries in that condition require a special "conditioning" charger. I had something similar happen with an electric motorcycle I had. Standard chargers won't work.
The Genius 5 charger in recovery mode is supposed to do that. Obviously no good in this case, or not as effective as something designed to do exactly that. Thanks for watching.
A year later and here i am at this same problem with the clutch cover. I am going to take heat to it tomorrow and try and tap it out. If all else fails the dremmel will prevail
WOW! So disappointing! 90% of this video is great but the last 2 minutes leaves you with a top that's only partially connected to the frame and hr just blanks out like none of that other stuff exists! 👎
