Couple tips next time you do this, get a Milwaukee 3/8 drive cordless ratchet, you can get to 90% of your bolts with it, saves a lot of wrench time. Also, you didn’t need to take your throttle body off, just remove the rubber hose under the throttle body to get the water pump on and off. Seems like you made great time just using hand tools and taking your time. Did you tune the car before you started it?
I had these tyres on my Holden ss v8 ute. These are literally the most dangerous tyres I have used. With normal driving... very unstable at 100km No traction in the dry and just stupid dangerous in the wet.. Best tyres for me are the Bridgestone RE 003 265/45/17
@6:32-6:33 .. What are they for ? Cause I'm changing out the cam and heads putting in new lifters.. pushrods and springs.. gonna replace the 853s with 243s
Brando Vansant you buy a compression tester take the needle valve out screw that end into the spark plug hole and other end with air compressor it fills the cylinders with air so the valves stay in place there is also the raise the piston to tdc of every cylinder so they won’t drop as much I used the first method in my gto getting ready to do a fbody and I’m wondering how much fun getting that hose into the plugs is going to be
First off to really get the full effective power when changing a cam you should buy the whole set value springs& lifters with cam to get 100% power & it will allow you to set the timing on the motor with ease & you'll have all the power from the cam.With out the whole set its really just no point, hard to set timing not enough low end torque or top end falls hard & no good mph.THE REALEST ANSWER YOULL GET, FRFR (RAW HORSEPOWER MOTOR CITY 313)STAND UP
Those may be things he will do later... And valve springs aren't going to effect his ability to set the timing because the ECU will do it after you enter the "new cam" parameters. The valve springs not being changed will only present a problem if they are run past their RPM limit, or the installed height makes them bind, they wont effect low rpm operation or alter the cams inherent specs.
I used 3/8" wooden dowel rods from Home Depot... definitely good insurance! However, I've done several cam swaps and I have never had a lifter drop. I know this because after every cam I've replaced, I've had to push the lifters back out of their trays with the pushrods.
Hey John - Just make sure the valves are closed first. If you have the correct length pushrod, then you can torque the rockers to 22lb ft. Dont torque them while the valves are open.
No sound! What the hell does the engine sound like!!! Dumb shit! How many complaints have you had because of no sound? Did you not check the video first before publication???
so did you have to tune your cam after you put it in or did you have to time it I have a 98 v8 Ls1 with a ms3 cam and I'm confused on what I should do with it
To answer question yes to start you want it at TDC, then follow this procedure, taken from 97blackz28 on ls1tech: Tighten exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1, 2, 7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft). Tighten intake valve rocker arm bolts 1, 3, 4, and 5 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft). Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees. Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts: Tighten Tighten exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3, 4, 5, and 6 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft). Tighten intake valve rocker arm bolts 2, 6, 7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
