Copper pipe, never happens. Only with drywall screws and nails. I have never called a plumber, electrician, carpenter, etc in my life. My wife called a tile man and the idiot thief required that I redo 50% over again myself. It's too bad I have to work and this happened.🤣🤣 Tell you one thing like any profession, doctor, engineer, scientist, physicist, etc many bad ONLY a few good. 🤣🤣🤣
It's pretty obvious what the problem is. Hot moist air is exiting the bathroom, entering a chilled pipe run in the basement and condensing out. It's basically how a storm cloud works. We have the exact same problem in our upstairs bathroom vents as they pass up through out uninsulated attic. The mystery is not the cause, it's finding the solution.
Thanks for the video. I have 6 inch gutters and gutter guards, plus the splash guards on the joints and still getting overflow. Is there a way to put diverters further up the roof or another solution? Thanks!
Do you guys work up in Oxford, NY? I would like to get an estimate. I would like to get two decks removed and have steps come down to two cement patios. The one in the front, I would like covered. The thing is, this is a mobile home, and the decks are shot. I would like to have less maintenance so I am figuring the cement patios will outlast me. 😅
Hi Jan, thank you for the question! No, we only serve southern chester county PA, and New Castle County DE... but we are in the process of developing our Home Field Advantage video coaching program for homeowners to help level the playing field for you against the crooked con-artists who call themselves contractors. Some details are posted now, but we should have the new website setup in the next week or two... www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro
Hi John! Thank you for the question! No, we only presently serve southern chester county PA, and New Castle County DE... but we are in the process of developing our Home Field Advantage video coaching program for homeowners to help level the playing field for you against the crooked con-artists who call themselves contractors. Some details are posted now, but we should have the new website setup in the next week or two... www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro and yes... one of those services will be an open to fly us out to meet with you and discuss your project. :-)
You need to check your fastener schedule. 3 or 4 screws on each side seems awfully sparse. Repaired structure and trusses for more than a few years. Engineers would spec boxes of screws for 3/4 " plywood splice plates.
Everything is not always as it seems. Give the construction adhesive some credit. Also, no indication this has actually been moving, pretty good chance. It's been like this for 3 decades or more... Purely belt & suspenders
Customer hired a "Window Replacement Company" to come "replace their windows" with "replacement windows." And then they leaked... I don't remember if the installation company went out of business or changed names (which they typically do every 18 to 24 months) or was simply not responsive, but the customer wanted to protect their Forever Home, and paid us a diagnostic fee to take it apart, figure out what the problem was, try to resolve it if we can, and make a recommendation for a path forward... which we did. We have a full article with other videos on our website about the dangers of using "replacement windows" when "new construction windows" are called for in the given application. www.copebuilt.com/general-contractor/kennett-square-pa/blog.aspx?ID=1064&Title=Replacement+vs+New+Construction+Windows%3A+The+Essential+Guide
Glad to hear it helped! We will soon be offering our Home Field Advantage program for clients who live outside of our service area. Learn more about that at www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro - and stay tuned for our new website coming soon to that domain in a few weeks.
We HATE the games insurance companies play to try to deny claims... In fact, we have written two articles on the topic with some videos... Check those out here to discover more dirty little secrets... www.copebuilt.com/general-contractor/kennett-square-pa/blog.aspx?CategoryID=1023&CategoryName=Insurance:%20Is%20this%20Covered?
Hey Ryan... Thank you! And He has... in many ways... While we only presently serve southern chester county PA, and New Castle County DE... but we are in the process of developing our Home Field Advantage video coaching program for homeowners to help level the playing field for you against the crooked con-artists who call themselves contractors. Some details are posted now, but we should have the new website setup in the next week or two... www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro - perhaps we can provide you more personalized guidance on your next project.
Our storm door frames attach to outside so makes a wide 4-5” opening between door and screen door.. looking for gap filler..when I look up threshold sweep,etc it’s not what I need
I'm having a hard time visualizing the problem you are experiencing... Maybe bottom Door Sweep ? we are in the process of developing our Home Field Advantage video coaching program for homeowners to help level the playing field for you against the crooked con-artists who call themselves contractors. Some details are posted now, but we should have the new website setup in the next week or two... www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro - once we go live, perhaps you'd like to purchase a zoom session and we can work on it with you together, so that you can get your questions answered and solve this once and for all.
Guess he didn't care, as we passed the framing inspection and the final with no issues... and he really liked the way we anchored the butterfly brackets to the interior of the house. Looks like you haven't uploaded a new video in about 3 years... maybe this would make a good subject matter for your next upload.
when my door is locked in the open position with the closer, the bottom of the door on the hinge side pulls away from the frame about 1/2 inch, since the door is capped with aluminum should I just try putting a large wood screw in through the aluminum frame I know it won’t look great but better than removing the cap correct?
Sounds like a reasonable plan to me... Often times, when wood is water damaged, rather than replace it, some con-artists calling themselves contractors will just hide the damage by capping over it... and by the time their taillight warranty is expired (when the taillights leave the driveway) you start to experience problems like this and are left holding the bag when you can't find them, and failed to get a COI (certificate of insurance). YES... Try the long screw. If that works, GREAT! If it doesn't, you are no worse off than you were before because you still have to pull the storm door, and the capping in order to fix it. Stay tuned to www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro - once we go live with the new website in a week or two, you'll be able to purchase a zoom session and we can work on it with you together, so that you can get your questions answered and solve this once and for all.
Thank you! We have an old wood storm door. The trim around the window/ screen seems to be plastic. It is coming apart in one area. What is the best way to reattach that? My partner used screws and now I have an ugly studded look going on in one area of my door. Please help me!
Can you apply woodputty over the screws? In direct response to all the questions we get like this on RU-vid, we are working on a new website at www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro which should be ready in the next week or two - once we go live, you'll be able to to purchase a zoom session and we can work on it with you together, so that you can get your questions answered and solve this once and for all.
Great question!! I don't specifically remember. I believe at the 16:00 mark, you can kinda see that the side of the ladder closest to the house is hitting the next roof section... AND.. there may be "wings" that hang off that ladder section, where the fly section was once attached... and those wings may be opposite the ridge. YES... we use 6 inch foam couch cushions on almost every roof I'm on that is over a 5/12 pitch. Makes working more comfortable... helps protect your knees, and gives great grip and traction to sit and work on a repair. They are also useful for protecting a shingle roof from damage from the ladders. Alternatively, we've used 3 foot wide rolls of old carpet. I prefer carpet side down to the roof... gives good traction to walk on... AND protects the roof while working on the siding, or wall, or window above. Thanks for your question!
@3:22 the new Tyvek was installed over the existing. I’m assuming you will tape the top of the new piece to the old? If so, won’t that tape degrade over the yrs and start to delaminate and allow water in over time? Wouldn’t the better procedure be to loosen the original Tyvek and tuck this new piece underneath so water can shed to the outside correctly over the layers? I think You only really needed say a 12” high strip of Tyvek tucked up under the bottom of the existing Tyvek run along that whole bottom extending over that step flashing onto the roof. Then there’s no need for tape or putting such a big piece of Tyvek over the existing Tyvek. Maybe I’m wrong? I’m curious on your thoughts on why it’s done the way you did it and supposed to what I think should’ve been done. Very informative videos though thank you.
I wasn't shown in the video, but we overlayed the entire wall with new tyvek. No "half-measures" here... but yes... we probably could have gotten away with lapping under the old tyvek... and NO, given the choice, I will never rely on Tape alone, when I have the option to put the mechanical layers in the correct shingle lapped sequence to shed water.
We would be happy to help if we can! Please reach out to our team by sending us a messege through our Facebook page: facebook.com/CopeBUILT or call our team at 484-748-7708 and our office staff will be able to help you!
I think you explained in the video already but did u say no need rafter ties since there already a wall build in lower 3rd and tie into the floor? Thanks
To my knowledge, this building has been standing in this condition for 3 decades... We added the gussets as belt and suspenders... My gut says that those knee walls are doing their job, since virtually all of the original cross bracing and diagonals were previously cut out. Ideally, if you have questions on these lines... hire a structural engineer to come out and take a look before you start making modifications, or cutting things out.
YES! We preemptively add z-bar turnbuckles whenever a customer will allow it. If a new storm door is going in, we recommend a safety chain, AND a z-bar to prevent sagging. About 50% of our clients turn us down. I put one on the new storm door I added to my own house in 2005... and that "crappy aluminum storm door" is still holding up. It has other problems now, but sagging isn't one of them. By the same token, I have client who refused the z-bar, and I have put 2 or 3 storm doors in for them in the same time period. Place your bets, Pay your money, make your choices.
I might have the same issue only for me its with a front door of the house. I replaced the door and the siding but I still have water coming in the basement ( under the front door). Any idea what to do? I thought installing a portico as I only get water in when the rain comes with an angle that hits the siding/door (Rain directly and not with an angle - the water does not enter)
There are too many variables to try to cover in a chat reply... I would encourage you to review our "exterior water leaks" playlist, as well as our "Door" playlist... Or give us another week or two to get the new website up, and you'll soon be able to visit www.HomeFieldAdvantage.pro and purchase a zoom video session and we can work on it with you together, so that you can get your questions answered and solve this once and for all.
Thank you for your kind complement! We strive to put accessible information out there for homeowners and contractors so that everyone is more educated about the trades.
In a basement, it could be condensation from ductwork if you aren't running a dehumidifier depending on which climate zone you are in. We've also seen bees build a nest in a joist bay, which causes staining on the drywall Sometimes its a plumbing leak.... But 9 times out of 10... its an exterior water leak either in a roof, a vent, a pipe collar, a window, a siding or stucco issue, etc...
I'm always interested in how other "real" pros like you do the water mitigation work. Everything you did was perfect..... except ..... And correct me if I'm wrong: where the wall meets the roof on the right side of the window, the step flashing should be behind the new 'up leg' of your drip cap flashing. Possibly even a mini or modified kickout flashing could/ should have been installed at the roof - wall connection where the azek - belly band is going to be installed. Either way, this video gets an A+.
This project was a while ago, but if I remember correctly, we were fairly happy with the look of the step flashing as it was and did not have any qualms about allowing the water to run below our PVC board, on down to where it would meet the next roof. Technically, yes, we probably could have kicked out around the PVC board... And I suspect the next set of people who roof this will do that because they aren't going to be able to access what's behind the PVC freeze board... But at the end of the day, either way, I'm very confident that we have this watertight. Thanks for jumping into the conversation. We love having other pros on our channel!
where is it dripping from? Ceiling drywall? Ceiling exhaust fan? Light fixture? Top of a window? Could be the shingles... could be a pipe collar... could be an exhaust vent...
i haven't seen the larger, commercially, but any roofer or siding company who has a sheet metal brake can bend one from aluminum coil stock. Our local ACE hardware has a rental division, and I suspect if you bought a roll of metal from their flashing asile, they'd probably allow you to bend it on the brake for free there in the store.
Hello, Soooo.... since I cannot hear that well. I am going to take a guess of what was causing the problem from what I could tell. There was two layer of step flashing that was not done correctly? Why would there be two layers? My mother in law is having a leaking problem but her shingles looks fine. She said it was leaking on the side of the side of the house. My immediate guess was the Step Flashing must have not been done correctly. Do all of the flashing under the stucco need to come out? Or can you do roofing and leave the flashing on but to make sure the step flashing is done right as I work my way up. Granted, I will make sure the flashings are in good conditions.
The step flashing from the roof to wall interface had slipped... probably when the roof was replaced, and at least one of the pieces was overlapped in the wrong sequence... in front, when it should have been behind... acting as a funnel and directing water into the home. We diagnosed this with a garden hose.... and someone inside watching for leaks... we started at the bottom and SLOWLY... 2 to 4 minutes per foot, worked our way up the roof until the person inside cried "I have water!" then you can start tearing it apart at that point. Obviously vinyl siding is easier than stucco... but it can be done.
Yes. Hello Neighbor! Welcome to our channel. We are licensed in DE and NCC as GC5534. How can we help? Note: We don't serve city of newark and city of wilmington due to separate licensing requirements, and simply not enough demand for our services in those areas to justify that added paperwork, red-tape, and expense. Same for Maryland. Generally speaking, we consider Kirkwood highway to be the southern limit of our service area.
The Trex Rain Escape system has funnels... they call them "downspouts" here's a link to the "downspout" install video from their channel ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m_S1EwIUDrc.html and they have a second video for when you have to modify a downspout to fit around an obstruction like a railing post. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mpE171-0dpo.html Or if you have to put it in on an angle. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XopgKHoMcCI.html And if you have 2nd story downspouts that need to drain through your deck, they offer two suggestions for how to handle that here... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--ilYjn57XUo.html Thanks for watching... If you found this helpful, please subscribe to our channel, and give this video a LIKE so that RU-vid knows we're producing helpful content and will share it with other viewers like you :-)
I have a similar problem above a glass sliding door. The house has a brick facade. The water only comes in when the east wind blows the rain against that side of the house. It leaks in the wall under the trim above the door. It does not leak if there is no wind. The house was build in 1992. It leaked for many years, so we had the glass door replaced with a new one in 2018. The replacement door installation did not solve the leaking problem, although we did not notice the leak again until 2020. We had all of the window sills replaces with new stone ones in 2021, including the sill on the 2nd story widnow above the door. The previous sills needed replacing, as there were made of brick and were disintegrating. Do you have any advice on the type of contractor I need to help fix this problem?
Step one is to educate yourself on the process of getting the flashing layers correct, and specifically the head flashing of the windows... & doors... Brick is a porous material and water is going to get behind it. Hopefully it was installed with an air gap behind it to allow for drainage and drying and when the doors and windows are installed, that air gap needs to be maintained to give the water a path to daylight. This playlist will give you a little bit of a master class on that concept... And I will include a second follow-up comment to Joe lestebrik's class, specifically an area on brick. ru-vid.com/group/PLHM_Hinmgh2In7R4suJcYVCk3xD4Sugj-
Here another conversation specifically about brick, queued up to the portion of the video where he explains what happens if you get too much mortar between the brick and the sheathing on the wall. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rem5WhFiiwU.html
Here are some raw unedited videos of a customer who had Stone in the front of their house that we applied a masonry penetrating sealer to in order to stop her water leak. I consider this to be a bit of a last resort... But short of removing her windows and some of the stone in the front of her house, I didn't have another way to fix this. So the penetrating sealer was cheaper and less risky than taking down the stone. (May not play on an Apple, iPad or iPhone device due to animosity between Apple and Google). photos.app.goo.gl/A7UQoi7EhX8mYdpq8
That would explain why all the gaps were open at the bottom... but I have no idea how they would have gotten it out... I'm thinking, built in the 1950s with 1x12 barn boards for the roof deck... there wasn't a ridge board in the initial install... the beams are full size 2" x 6" - none of this nominal stuff 1.5x5.5 that we use today.
I’m with you. Aside from the unlikelihood, there would be signs of nail removal had the ridge board been removed. Maybe the rafter separation is from the removal of the supports. Are the joists fastened to the rafters? Makes me wonder if the walls are spreading out. Peace.
It's a cinderblock building... no evidence that the walls are moving. Possible that it sagged when whoever cut out the diagonals and whatever collar ties may have originally existed when they added the knee walls... but I don't know enough about the history of the building to know for sure. We'll add some more collar ties in the future before a new roof goes on. Def don't want the roofers dropping full bundles on the ridge, loading it up with several tons of new asphalt.
Like you said, the joists are taking care of the walls. The lack of a ridge board is fascinating to me. Good luck with your project. Thanks for posting.
What about doors with the roll down windows. Mine has a roll down screen window in the door but the lock won't hold the window open is there a way to fix it?
I have purchased new screens on a replacement roller system from the manufacturers and installed them in the past... NOTE... the directions they supplied were not clear... You can probably buy a new latch if the clip has broken off... but you have to determine if its the latch that broke... or the ledge which the latch clips on-to.
Larson handles are often sold separately ($50), and generally have a square metal bar going through the door as the "axle" and each handle connects the the square bar by slipping on the end, and is fastened in place with a hex drive set screw. Grab your allen keys, look for the hex screw head in the round part of the shaft handle and see if you can loosen it... push the handle further onto the square metal axle, and then tighten it again. You may have to repeat on the opposite handle as well. These handle kits sometimes come with a plastic or nylon shoulder washer... if that breaks and falls out, it will create slopp in the action of the handle. if this helps, please like our video, like this comment, and subscribe to our channel. thanks :-)
I don't like them in living spaces... I'd rather have the full room height, rather than a tiny reading nook. They aren't bad in attics for allowing in natural light and they help break up a large sloped roof visually so its not just one giant wall... but a reverse gable in the middle could do the same thing.
Is it normal on a new home to have the inside of the garage jam to have exposed wood? Please help similar to you project I feel that the wood should be covered and sealed. Please help . Thank you
great question... when the garage door is shut and viewed from the exterior, you should only be able to see finished products.... be that painted wood trim boards, or PVC trim, or aluminum capping with a weather strip against the door. When viewed from the inside, it is not uncommon to see the edge of the 2x8 jamb framing, maybe the jack stud or the trimmer... or in some cases, there is no drywall at all on the inside walls, and all of the framing is exposed. In some cases, the garage door tracks are secured directly to the 2x8 or 2x6 framing studs just inside the door. If you were custom building your home, you'll need to review the contract specifications regarding the garage to see what was agreed upon prior to construction. Hopefully, details like this were clearly articulated, and not just left up to assumption. If you purchased this home after it was build, then you are at the mercy of whatever the builder / prior owners agreed to. You can always hire a contractor to come add drywall, or aluminum capping, or PVC trim boards as appropriate. The biggest issue we see in garages, is the builders add a Tape Coat to the 5/8" drywall for "fire rating" but they never paint it. 3 years later, moisture and humidity breaks down the glue, and the tape starts falling off the ceiling. We would recommend painting the garage with a semi-gloss or gloss paint to protect the drywall and tape from moisture. Alternatively, you can add 1x3 or 1x4 wood strips to cover all the joints, to prevent the tape from failing. Its still a good idea to paint and seal the drywall. Please subscribe for more great content!
That's a great question. For the most part, clients have not asked us to go tearing apart interior trim looking for problems.... And if they are lucky, these were one time events that suddenly leaked and they called us to fix it promptly. However, it's possible a little bit of water was leaking in during every rain storm and only showed up during the heaviest of rain. In that situation, mold is a possibility. My understanding is that mold requires a couple of things to grow. A substrate to grow on, water, and a dark warm place. Once we take away the water, I don't think it's going to grow or spread that much. And it's contained behind the wall, which means there's nothing to spread the mold spores around until such time as someone doesn't renovation. So I typically don't stress out about it unless a client has has asthma or severe allergies. I typically ask these questions and if they respond in the negative, we don't take it any further. I do have two clients who are very sensitive and we absolutely always go overboard for them when it comes to these types of concerns. I am far more concerned about whether the OSB or plywood sheathing on the exterior of the house still has the rigidity to do its job... Then I will do about whether or not it's turned a little black on the outside or whether there might be some small amount of mold hidden within the walls. There are several companies out there who make an awful lot of money scaring people about the potential health hazards. I personally have a friend who is misdiagnosed with having Crohn's disease, which later turned out to be the result of living in a heavily contaminated mold-filled house.... So I'm not cavalier about this concern, but I also try to address it in moderation helping a client to weigh the risk reward ratio of doing a lot of exploratory demolition to look for what may or may not be there. One client was very concerned about the possibility of mold in the water is upstairs bedroom where they experience the water leak in the window below, and we drilled two 5-in holes through the bedroom wall to do an inspection and then we patched the drywall and painted it When we found nothing. Every homeowner has a different risk tolerance and a different budget and we try to work with each accordingly
