I had the same part, it was pretty tight even I installed it outside of the car. Btw did you forgot to lube up the contact surfaces? might wear out faster than usually.
I have a 2003 325i and my dash backlighting doesn't turn on, everything else works. I have had the cluster tested and was told that it work fine on the bench test. Anyone have any suggestions.
How high did you have to jack up the vehicle? I’m working with two jack stands and a scissor jack and I have been putting off this job too long I feel.
Hi just wanted to know where you bought your transfer rebuild kit from and if you have a link to it. I'm from Australia and I've tried nearly every possible store online but the don't deliver to Australia for some reason and have been stuck without this one piece.
Jestem z Polski i też naprawiam swoje X5 samemu . Dzięki twojemu filmowi zaoszczędziłem czas i poskładałem beż błędów . 💪💪💪 . Sorry że piszę po swojemu - pewnie sobie przetłumaczysz . Jeszcze raz dziękuję i pozdrawiam serdecznie
Thanks for you video. Very helpful. I just did mine without the spacer. Welded it on 81 cm and cut of about 1 cm from the gearboxtube. That was worn out anyway so now I,ve got the spines reaching all the way in. Works perfectly.
Really appreciate your channel, Bimmerfix. Ive been slowly doing a refresh on a 2002 4.6 and it's been really helpful. Thank you very much for your time.
Better to just buy a used swing arm online. That's what I did. I replaced all the rear suspension components on my 2002 E53. I used all new parts except for the swing arms.
Pretty nice video. I have not done anything for mine in ages, tiny bit something for the E34 lately. Btw only mistake I notice was those handbrake cables, those go under the subframe by those "formed wires" which hang them down from the subframe. Pretty work ❤
Thanks for the correction! Everything seems so simple when taking apart, but when putting back together, I discover things can go back in so many different ways, and I'm always regretting I didn't take enough pictures/videos! 🤣 You're lucky you have E34, my favorite looking car!
@@BimmerFix Also E39 but not bigger than 2.5l, early one. Yea I personally took a lot of pics and I have own that same car for 10 years. Not selling it off ever :)
There's some on ebay and then you have cobra transmission. It took me weeks, if not months to find all the parts and I ordered from different bearing companies.
Did the bottom of the side trim line up with the edge of the bottom panel? I'm finding that when installing the bottom panel it sits a 1/4 to 1/2 inch lower than the bottom of the side trim on each side.
If I have my key that starts the car and do what you did at the start of the video by synching another key fob, can I just use my original key to start the car and the new fob to open the doors?
@@BimmerFix is that a simple task? All I’m really after is having a fob that will unlock the doors and I was worried as we only have the 1 key for the car, I have the Amazon fob ready to try but have held out after I heard about the EWS part of keys and thought using my working key to program another fob may remove it
@TyeTreegaming it's not a simple task, but you can purchase a spare dme with EWS deleted. Then all you have to do is swap the DME and never worry about EWS. If you want EWS back, swap back your original DME. Look on eBay, they go for as cheap as $100.00. Send me your email if you'd like.
I think I know what kit you're talking about. Was it Tema 4x4? I tried it, but didn't like it either. It only had rubber inserts for the springs, no metal plates for the struts.
@@BimmerFix Yes. I did not notice anything while driving, like problems or any, but no anything for the shocks to rear. For me it was ok with thr longest shocks, but I would still have liked them to have like spacers also
The lower part attachment for the strut is kinda missing of this. And you need to tell to torque it the weight on as level. :) Ofc it's hard now since without the subframe. Good parts. I also bought Sachs to E39 as it's the OEM manufacturer on many parts.
Had no idea NV had products make it beyond the US auto makers. Nothing special about the fluid. ATF+4 would be more than adequate and you can find it everywhere.
I got a smaller version, presented by you here, but even though I was able to rebuilt the valve using this tutorial. Many thanks, heater works/cooler works great.
Nice. I had pretty good brakes on mine, replaced once. Now it has just been laying on garage for few monts without touching on it, but IS model brakes were bolt on too. No real reason actually, but on front those are pretty much bigger even. Do you think that paint to stand out rusting? I did use on mine just casual 2k epoxy and some non 2k silver which said like 150c heat durability or so.
Are you doing it on a bench or in the vehicle? If in the vehicle, don't forget to bridge pins 17 and 20 on the round adapter. thebimmerbarn.com/blogs/news/round-20-pin-adapter-bypass
I did this too to E83 and E53. For first one under the car. Did just cut it so it came out easily. The main thing is to have it on level and with lubrication it will go easily. I did not have tool to pull it off so that's why the cutting with a hacksaw.
Have done these too, but even at over 400tkm driven these weren't as stuck as yours. Maybe someone put mine on with some lubricate as new on the factory 🤔
@@BimmerFix Where do you live in? I mean they pour much of salt at here to the roads too, but my car was in casual use for first 13 years of it's life. After it I have done mainly stuff to it and driven like under 15tkm during the past 10 years.
@thetoughcookie3665 I'm in Alberta, but this vehicle had over 400km when I purchased it, not sure about the history. Apparently, it came from the states as the cluster was in miles.
I think it would've been a lot easier using a cup with the correct diameter. I have a hydraulic press similar to the one in this video, and I've never had any difficulty with wheel bearings or bushings. It's worth it to buy a hydraulic press _and_ a press sleeve kit.
@@ericwelsh4853 I had just an common set with many parts and a threaded rod, did take them nicely. I have hydraulic press too but there was no need for it. But original bushings are quite tight on that spot, only thing which they seem to suffer is a attachment to rubber which gets loose if something. But on the other hand: it's a heavy car which means that if your bush is like softer than stock one and leans like 1mm more on this point, it's much more on a tire.
You can put a bit of grease. A/C drains just above the splines. Some people move the drains slightly, some use grease on the splines. Personally, I didn't find the rust to be significant, rather just light surface rust. I just sprayed the splines with ospho (phosphoric acid). I'm not worried about much rust, especially how deep the splines go after this fix (almost 2 inches instead of 0.75).
I did this fix on my 4.4i and the bell housing on the 4.4i is different. This means that the hex bolt heads were coming too close to the bell housing with the spacer installed. Instead I used higher grade internal hex bolts. Also, on my 4.4i it would have been impossible to install the shaft if I had made it 30"long. I went for 29 13/16". 1/16" more might have worked but I did not want to risk having to disconnect the diff or the TC. For a few days I ran the car with only three spacers on the bolts as the Russian made spacer took a few days to arrive. I guess that source is no longer an option....
That's awesome, the good thing is you can find the perfect length and test it out before welding the spline tip on the driveshaft. As for the spacer, I ordered it from Urkaine, since it's no longer available from Russia.
