I had to hunt through a couple years of purchase history to remember. It's called a flywheel puller bolt. This is one for an 82-83, the listing I bought from is long gone. I assume they're the same for as the one I used for my 84, but not positive. www.ebay.com/itm/313450137400

It definitely didn't hurt the comfort riding around. I didn't notice a big difference just driving. Something like this is going to make a bigger difference on a road course, which unfortunately I just don't have experience running on yet. My main reason to do this was to stiffen the chassis for the awd swap I'm working on. I wanted to make it a little more fun for tail of the dragon and make up for some of the chassis stiffness you lose in a convertible.

@@VertTuner I hear yeah, it's not going to hurt. I just recently bought the boosted ones, from what I've seen on dsmtuners it seems to tighten the chassis flex fairly well for a simple brace.

if you're closing it manually, that last inch or so is really tough. If it's doing that even with the motor, there's likely some kind of alignment issue in the frame or cable adjustments. I wouldn't know how to fix that myself, I'd have to take it to a shop that specializes in tops. I know these tops have an issue with some of the hinging in the frames sheering off over time on the forums.

Unfortunately, I only know enough to say it's worth getting ecmlink instead. I never got mine to log properly on ceddy mods and got tired of fighting the software.

Ok i got mine running and anti lag and egr all the good stuff with all the delete and pin options probably the most current and workable version of ceddy for the 2g i had good afrs then i lost then the next start up and the tune is different now but it still runns good but i think i have bad sensors and maybe a exhuast leak to fix but i am running all stock equipment and 750 injectors fuel rail g27 turbo and 60 mm bov stock internal waistgate on a manual boost control and osias fual system stock maf with a stock 3bar map its a late 99 2g so it has all the systems in use that a evo 8 had

I am wondering if i piggy back the iat and change the code for speed density will it run with the maf still and do i have to change to a different map if it is reading the sensor and is logable stock

This is a 96, so it's a second generation Eclipse. An 07 is a fourth gen. Nice cars, but they don't have the same cult following as the first and second gen, though the people that do own them seem to like them fine. Very different drive train than mine. The first and second generation eclipses borrowed a lot of the early evo 1-3 drive trains before the evo came to the US market. The turbo models like mine are essentially 2 door evos. Unlike the early evos though, the convertibles are front wheel drive, but the hardtops had an optional awd system that's was similar to the evos in japan at the time with slightly different gearing. I don't know much about the fourth gens. If it's an electric top, there should be a similar switch somewhere on the body. If hydraulic, you would need a way to bypass it, which I've never done personally.

I tapped the intake manifold when I had it powder coated, so I run it straight off that.

Jake Halsey Sonia is it not good to just run off of one of the many ports that are already on the manifold ? Not the PCV port but any other one

Jake Halsey do you do remote tune ? We have a dyno and my shop and am needing help getting fuel dialed in on a 2g 6bolt swap with 1220cc injectors and 57/57 trim. Def would be willing to pay you for your time

@@nicktunesnemesisperformanceINC Sorry, I didn't see you're replies before. I don't tune for others at the moment as I'm still learning. If you still need help, join this group on facebook and there are a couple remote tuners. facebook.com/groups/Ecmlink/members

@@nicktunesnemesisperformanceINC You can use the other ports, or any vacuum source, but the shortest route to the intake manifold is the most accurate, so tapping directly into it works very well. As long as you're lines aren't super long, it will work fine.

Asa Spades if you pull the door handle open, there’s a hidden screw on the cover. It was already off in the video, but you can see the screw hole around 24 seconds in.

Jake Halsey Yee I found it it was just clipped in there or something, just took some wiggling and finessing to get it to pop out

It’s been a couple years now, but I remember it being hardwired to the voltage regulator towards the back of the bike.

Tasuta Fitim there’s not really a good way to close the windows manually. If you have battery power and they won’t roll up, you’ll want to start by checking the fuse, then make sure the driver and passenger switches are both plugged in (I’ve noticed mine don’t roll up with the driver’s side switches if the passenger switches aren’t also plugged in). Then check to see if you’re getting voltage to the regulator. If you are and the windows still don’t work, you’ll need to swap out the regulator.

If the leak is in the o2 housing, like the one in the video, the o2 sensor will read leaner than it should and cause the car to dump fuel. In my case, that's where my wideband is located, so it's screwing with my logs for tuning, making it impossible to dial in the new injectors. In normal cases, loss of power, poor fuel mileage, fouled plugs, and eventually a fouled o2 sensor can all be issues to some degree. Excess heat in the engine bay can also be an issue, especially in pre-turbo leaks where the exhaust gases are at their hottest. Melted a few radiator fans a couple years back from a cracked manifold before I caught it.

Chris Harris I ended up switching to ecmlink to make it easier, but the process is somewhat similar. I’ll you’re going to need to verify that your sensors are logging and then take a look at the ve tables to dial them in for your car. Ecmlink has some functions that extrapolate the ve changes needed from the log, so it’s a lot easier than ceddymods where you need to do it manually. My issue here was the maf sensor wasn’t grounded. Even if the maf is unplugged, the car won’t log without that ground.

@@VertTuner I plan on getting ecm link in the future, so the ground wire that I cut will need to be put back in place?

It depends on how you set up your inputs with ecmlink. You could use the same wiring or put it back and use a plug and play kit like I did. Anymore, I recommend just switching to an aem 5 bar and wiring into the mdp as it’s a more reliable part.

At idle, yes. You're fuel pressure isn't a static value when the car is running. When you set it with the line disconnected, you're setting the base pressure. When you re-connect, the pressure is offset by the current pressure in the engine. This raises and lowers the flow rate of the injectors as the engines needs change, allowing the ecu to have a wider degree of control in the same injectors. At idle, the pressure in the engine is negative, also called vacuum, so the pressure drops below the base value. As you rev up and build boost (assuming you're turbo/super charged), the pressure in the engine becomes positive and fuel pressure raises with it. So let's say you set a base pressure of 43 psi and your engine idles with a 7 psi vacuum. With a 1:1 regulator, like the afpr we're using in the video, the gauge would read 35 psi at idle (it'll actually bounce around a little since vacuum isn't completely constant in a running engine). Likewise, if you rev the engine up enough to build 7 psi (lbs) of boost, it'll read 50 psi. If you're using a different type of regulator, like an fmu (also called a rising rate regulator), you can see drastic differences in fuel pressue. A 12:1 fmu with a base pressure of 43 psi would see 127 psi of fuel pressure at 7 psi of boost, for instance. Typically, those types of regulators are only used when you don't have a way to change fuel maps in the ecu (like when boosting an n/a car without a standalone). 1:1 regulators like the one in the video are usually used to support larger fuel pumps. Higher than normal base pressures can be used to compensate for smaller injectors, but that can effect the lifespan of the injectors and is limited by the pressure the pump and lines can support.

Hey Micah, my car's a 2G (95-99) and yours is a 3G (2000+). Unfortunately, the chassis are very different between the two and I'm only familiar with the 2G's. I do know that www.club3g.com/ is a forum dedicated to your model. I'd recommend taking a look there and asking around. The only thing I know is that the awd swap is a lot more involved for 3G's because they don't have a built in tunnel for the driveshaft. Since the 2G uses the same chassis for the fwd turbo and awd models, that's not an issue for me.

Jake Halsey okay I appreciate it jake

Jake Halsey beautiful car btw

Thanks man, good luck with your project! It's a great hobby.

Awesome, man! Glad it helped.

Thanks man. I'm still a ways off from dropping them in. Plan is to switch to dsmlink and get the speed density sorted out to race fwd this year while I service and upgrade the suspension on the rear end. Just got the driveshaft rebuilt a month or two ago and the rear sub frame is torn apart now. I'll be painting it and replacing all the bushings when the weather warms up enough. Hopefully, I'll have some time to catch up on video editing and update the project soon.

It's been a while, but I remember the bolts being the same size except maybe one or two. If you're worried about it, draw the stator on a piece of paper and place the bolts on the matching part of the drawing as you pull them off. I think I remember one or two bolts being smaller around where the wire goes into the stator. I cleaned the gasket on mine by scraping it with a razor blade. Just be careful not go gouge anything. One thing I left out of the stator removal step is that there's a crank bolt that has to come off. The black bolt tool I'm using threads into it's hole. I forgot about it in the video because I'd removed it weeks before and got stuck without the spanner wrench. Doesn't sound you need to pull the actual stator though if you'r just pulling the cover for painting. You should just need the 8mm socket and a razor blade for cleaning.

Glad it was helpful

I bent a piece of aluminum flat stock I had laying around with a hammer and bench vice and then drilled holes for it. Usually, if you're buying the fpr new, it'll come with a small bracket you can use to rig something up. Since I bought mine second hand, it didn't have one and I just used what I had laying around. You could also just buy a small piece of sheet metal from the hardware store and bend something up. Other guys re-purpose stock brackets for things on the firewall that they've deleted. In my case, I made the new bracket itself, but used the bolts and location of a stock bracket that wasn't needed anymore. Hope that makes sense.

hmmm maybe mine has it i didnt see on, my work always has sheet metal so may have to come up with something

It may vary by the brand or I may be thinking of a kit. Either way, if you have access to cheap/free sheet metal, you should be able to make something. The back of the fuel lab one has a little ridge that the bracket is meant to sit against. All you really need is something that can sit against that ridge and still get a bolt on somewhere. If you can find some panhead bolts that will recess into your bracket enough to be flush, you won't even have to bend anything. I'm working out of state atm, but I've been toying with redoing that bracket next time I'm home. If I do, I'll try to film it and post it up for you.

+mike ye Thanks man! I'm planning to install my Walbro 255 next. It's gonna be a couple weeks as my garage is in a different city than my work.