Please Subscribe and set the Notifications. All of my content can also be found at prepperguy.com DIY Prepper Guy is dedicated to learning Survival in a changing World, therefore, we will all need how to live on our own. Learn skills like building, farming haunting, not because we are afraid, but because we are supposed too, and when SHTF, we will all have too. Always Prepared Never Scared
Engineers, doctors, and electricians. They all say 'Don't install your own service panels.' I read all the directions and installed one in 2 houses. Passed the inspections from the town and the electric company. And I'm female with almost no electrical orientation prior. The key is, do your homework thoroughly. If you have a specific engineering, doctor or electrical problem, you can usually find specific answers that apply to your local situation. Thank you for this useful information.
I just got the 20v brushless hercules drill you have in the video. At like half throttle or so, the gear lash noise is crazy loud. Sounds like an older f1 car revving to 18,000 RPM. Is that normal? Does yours do that? Also I noticed the chuck has a fair amount of run off. No matter what bit I put in there, it wobbles a bit. Let me know if this is normal. I'm thinking of bringing it in and trying to get another one. I've used it a couple times and it works fine. I dont know, maybe I'll just keep it.
I have not noticed the noise but have had the clutch drop the bit a few times but not enough to take it back, and less than my DeWalt. I would take it in and asks them. Let me know what happens,
Hey, it's nice to see some comparison testing. Some paint is just glue and pigment powders so don't write it off as inconsequential. A product to look into that might be a reasonable alternative to Titebond would be Valspar Extreme Adhesion primer. Make sure your canvas gets saturated (maybe thin the glue with water). The peel test is helpful but ultimately you're looking for something like a sheer test. Look up how people test French cleat holding strength. Finally, none of these tests matter for plywood over foam. You'll need a glue that cures without air circulation for that. (For that matter, canvas over plywood over foam is almost pointless. It can help reinforce the corners but does nothing for the panel.)
So my take away for what I'm trying to achieve was the Sanding/Paint/Glue/Canvas, at that point I saw a delamination of the foam to paint, so that is the best for that pink foam product. I could poke holes in the foam for more penatration but I'm not sure I need that, just enough to not come lose going down the road.
I think it was pretty close to 16 inch on center for the clamps and usually I clamped them up and then let them set overnight, then I just unclamped them stack them. Thanks for watching the video I actually had a pretty good time building these and though it took a while doing it just on weekends. Once I got the jig set up and the proper way to glue and clamp then went pretty quick so I was able to do 1 per day. They're up now and I have a video of the completion seem to be pretty danm sturdy so I am impressed with myself but that's the joy of doing it yourself
@@Prepper_Guy man I love it sweet. I’ll watch your other video tonight for sure! I have everything to build a 30x30 addition but I need a few joist. All stuff from work lol 👌
Russia is getting bigger with brics and the siberia developement announced while USA is going down the drain little by little. I wish all country would work together a peace and free world. No borders. Universal security law . Where everyone could have a fair chance to get a place to live and feed their family.
Right, the one I got is only 5%, so I should look into the stronger one. This is a small town so maybe on Amazon, but this one worked good, and is cheap at $3.95 / gal at Walmart. I saw a video where he use 3 strengths, so I should look it up.
I guess I qualify as an "engineer", and your assessment of "engineers" is 100% correct. Fyi, I'm planning a build abroad where you can't get engineered I-joists so I thought about this very method of making them...and I must have been reading your mind.
NOT the same quality!!! A single 16' 2x4 is not the same as (2) 8' 2x4's!! I see some major issues with you doing this. First, you do not have solid lengths of anything. That is why they are engineered! Tension is a BIG part of why they are engineered!!! Now if you were somehow able to finger joint the 2x4's together along with the OSB sheets, then I'd say go for it! Since you did not, you are waiting for a disaster to happen! I think you are asking for trouble just like Stockton Rush did! it worked for a little while, then it DIDN"T! That goes for anyone who has copied your design and you could be held liable. Another thing you could have done, is to make some gussets for each side of the OSB. That would help a lot! You have at least 6 joints that can fail at any time if the glue doesn't hold or the 2x4 cracks. Now if you had also offsets the joints on every other joist, that would help a little by spreading the load away from a single line. I know a little about what I'm talking about. Designed a paper bridge in college and I think the record still stands from 2002. A bridge made from 0.48 pounds of paper, held 279 lbs. Any engineers out there? This is just my opinion. Let me know if I'm wrong.
I know it’s better quality. I’m doing the same thing. 16’ 2x4s top and bottom. Either 1/2 or 3/4 in the middle. 8’ splice of 1/2 on each side othe the splice. Subfloor glue
You have sawhorses and work on the floor. If you want,, make the cradle more substantial and forget the outer tube, I listen to your schpeel on iheart and have been anxiously waiting for you to return. Thanks for showing back up!
I am thinking of doing just that so Thanks for the Advice. If I use the inner tube with a short receiver welded on to both pieces, I can inset the 2x2 frame stock at each end and just set it on the sawhorses. If can drill a smaller radius into the 2x6, that should spin free enough with a small amount of grease. I did think of buying 2 Harbor Freight Engine stands for $99.00 each but I think that is almost Over-Kill for the weight I will need, and I'm cheap. Keep in touch, and thinks for being a listener.
Here is the wrap-up on the I-Joist with some thought on the process. Enjoy and thanks for all the comments. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KY99Ot6jkac.html👍😎
0:09 that will be the point of failure. you should offset the 2xX ends by at least 3 times the height of the trusses (I dont know the exact math, but usually 3 something is a magic number to avoid load concentrations). or you could just offset them by half the length of the 2xX to be safe. those points have a lot less load resistance than the rest as there is like a pre broken I beam with only the middle part intact. aside from that, that does not mean that it will fails and you should repent for your actions. this only matters if the design load is really close to half the failure at those points (you still have some compression resistance in the upper 2xX butts). but offsetting them isn't hard at all, especially after how you dealt with the notching. another way to reduce the weakness of those points is bracing the lower flanges "butt joints". as said before, the upper flanges will usually work in compression and after the load squish them close, it will act mostly as a continuous piece, but the lower flange at those points are concentrating the load a those points as they have zero tension resistance (hence the usefulness of bracing them) (thanks for making the video tho, it is a lot easier to debug this things when someone has already done it xD)
I agree and my design kind of happened without double checking, that said, they are quite sturdy. I will be using a 1foot long strip of plywood glued and stapled on the bottom of each cords to help out with my poor planning, I think this will solve any tong term sagging. These only hold a very low dead weight so if worse case I'll chalk it up to lessen learned. Thanks for watching.
No you're not. When those cheap tools end up failing after a few years of regular use because they're made with even cheaper components on the inside, and you're forced to throw them away and buy new ones; you'll be back buying more tools and overpaying for them. Cheap power-tools = Disposable power-tools.
@@NGMonocrombuddy, the new Hercules brushless come with a guaranteed 5 year warranty no matter what Milwaukee is cracking down on their tools and it's getting even harder to have them follow up on their warranty
@@NGMonocrom Talk about a Milwaukee TOOL fan boy. My first Bauer tools were a drill and circular saw bought in 2017. Both have seen HEAVY USE. Still work JUST FINE including the battery's. I now have 30 Bauer / Hercules tools. Don't go to HF, better for ones who do so HF don't raise prices. You pay 200% more for at best 5% better. Yeah, YOU are the smart one..... ok..... good luck buddy.
Yes, which is pushing the specs for a 22 foot span, but there will never be and weight on it. The web is 12" and I used 1 1/2" x 3 1/2 " so they have a slightly wider top cord the store bought.
Try them out, I think Bauer is the best tools for the home, diy guy I like my Hercules tools also but Bauer is best for the price easy to use very well made and more tools in the line up.
I do have some of the Bauer tools and like them a lot, I use them for around the house and yard, they work great. I use the Hercules for work and they stay in my shop and truck, neither tool line have disappointed me. I am phasing out my Ryobi and DeWalt's to expensive and not as good as Hercules, or Bauer, IMO.
I have Hercules tools and Bauer, I got the 71/4 circ saw for Christmas, I tried it out and hated it.the blade was on the wrong side for me and it cut out cutting a 2by 6 . I took it back without receipt and got the 61/2 saw and tire inflator which I like a lot.Not everything is great at Harbor freight but almost all my 10 Bauer and 6 Hercules tools are good for the price and I use the heck out of them.
A Painters Cloth or Drop Cloth, got it at Harbor Freight. www.harborfreight.com/9-ft-x-12-ft-canvas-dropcloth-38109.html?_br_psugg_q=drop+cloth I have seen people use bed sheets also, I used this to make the OSB Look Smoother, and I have sprayed Iron Armor on it and it is looking sweet.
Wow 😲 nice set up I am not one to knock anyone if it works for you then use it I do people sometimes say I commit sins by having. Different brands who cares I appreciate your video
I started with Ryobi six tool kit over 10 years ago and they got the job done, my second kit was ok but both batteries were junk, after buying a deal,2 battery s and get a free tool,got free jigsaw then one of the new batteries was dead....soo fuck Ryobi, I gave most tools away still have a couple but l have been buying Bauer tools and like them. Very lite circ saw and . easy to use..now Hercules got more tools in there line up l got a bunch of tools, l hated that 7 1/4 circ saw from Hercules,way to heavy and blade was on the wrong side for me,took it back and got the Hercules 6 1/2 one and its great.blade is same side as my Bauer.My kids bought me the Hercules planer it's great and the dual power shop vacuum is constantly getting used to suck up saw dust,.. wait for deals if you can but either way you will be happy with the tools
Yeah if I had the equipment They are all set And seemed to be pretty solid when I was walking around on them so that's a plus. I will be using some long pieces of Unistrut for an overhead gantry , so we shall be testing them that way kind of sort of
Stumbled upon your channel. Interesting videos. How did you determine your dimensions and spans? You are right, there aren’t any good videos of this subject. Want to learn something, go to the foreign channels, Americans don’t share knowledge
I basically guessed base on buying manufactured ones, and because I went with 2x4's and 12" webbing I was kind of over killing them compared to manufactured ones. What still scares me is the joint in the meddle of them at 12 foot, and I will be adding piece of 1/2" plywood at the bottom about 12" by 3 1/2" to help with a downward flexing.
I have the Hercules circular saw with the 8ah battery. It is a very well made saw and has plenty of power. I don't miss my corded saw. I would put it up against the big brand names any day.
How realistic talking. Same here in Europa. We should have the power to do something about it. But we are not in this to organize and we stupids live on until is will be to late. And we live on from there as you say. Thanks for the lesson
I started my collection yesterday. They seem like heavy tools. So your a floor guy? What state are you in? I have some issues with concrete floors. We want to put down laminate but have heard or been told so many things we dont know what to believe. Thanks for the Video.
I live in AZ. actually a 3rd generation guy. They are heavy tools, but I love them because the cost and so far in my case they are holding up great. Sorry for the delay, working on the barn roof while it is nice out, and the vacation time. All laminates can go over concreate or wood, and OSB Subfloors. The specs vary from manufactures but most require 3/16th level in 10 feet accumulatively, over concrete, what ever that manes, their Tech people can't even explain it to me, so, no high, or low spots more that 3/16" using a 10 foot level, or straight edge. You or the installer can pour Leveler into the low spots or grind the high peaks to a point. These issue's are an unforeseen problem to the store or installer so be ready for some shock treatment, we have had to charge thousands to get floors to spec. You can remove the old flooring to check ahead of time to save the shock if it's carpet, and in the floor has tile , and it's flat and smooth you can install laminate over that. Also, even Water-Proof Laminates, or LVP's require a Moisture Barrier now when installed over wood and concrete alike. Most Manufactures have a Tech Phone # for answering questions, their jobs are to cover the companies ass so they are more informative and helpful.
@@Prepper_GuyThanks for the reply. My entire problem is a huge high spot in the middle of the room with a partition wall on top of it. About 3/4". I can fill the small dips. Even thought about floor leveling but too much for that and other problems it would cause. I even tried diamond wet pads which works but so slow it wore me out.House was built in the 50's
The big problem is the stress on the joints as the floor moves while walking around the room causing the joint to release. Also if you choose to install it yourself that will void the warranty and most pro's won't touch it due to liability. My home is 124 years old and has very uneven subfloor every where, so because I have installed floors for 50 years I just went over it using a Mohawk LVP, or Luxury Vinyl Plank, as the end joints open up every once in a while I just use a tool you can buy and bang the joint back together. Over the past 3 years I have glued almost every end joint and it is now stopped being such a bitch, but it does take a few hours once or twice a year, it's a trade off. If you install the new floor, which is easy for us DIYers, yon can just get the floor as good as you can and go for it. Also Carpet can go over any crappy floor, and Sheet vinyl would work as well, those products just aren't as DIY friendly. here is a video showing the tool I mentioned and a lint to the tool ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0Nm80gcxpjc.html onflooring.com/products/laminate-flooring/unifix-laminate-repair-tool-uniclic The tool is kind of pricey but I got mine for free from my Rep, so you could look around and talk to the company your thinking of spending your money with and if they have a good realtionship with the supplier they might get it for free...maybe. Stay away from the Big Box stores, they buy seconds and also have the manufactures "Dial-Down" the specs. @@TheCritterWindow
I am a new home owner with no tools to speak of. Was gifted Kobalt 40v mower, blower, and trimmer. Happy with these so far. Was thinking about staying in that shade of blue but...this video and recent reviews of the Hercules planer might change my mind. Warrenty is a big consideration too
Great video, it was like getting to know a new friend but the one thing I can say is that Joe Biden wants us all dead so it's good to see you keep the country going....
TJI joists typically don’t use solid wood for the tops and bottoms. They use something more akin to “Parallam” type construction. Think of plywood with all the strands running lengthwise. Why? Cause it’s stronger than solid wood and doesn’t have knots or other surprise weak spots to ruin your day.
I am on Ridgid 18V line for the drill, driver and circular saw, but I'll be buying Hercules tools in the future as my Ridgid saws are a bit underpowered. Noticed that my Ridgid table saw cuts slowly compared to my Hercules dual bevel sliding compound miter saw! BTW Home Depot markup is crazy.. pay twice or more for an inferior tool! Going Hercules next time around.. infact thinking of using the black friday discount to get into the system now and slowly just adding tools later on.
I had to make 2 of these 35 years ago because I was 2 joist short except I used a 2x4 on each side top and bottom to sandwich the osb board instead of 1- 2x4 on the bottom and staggered the joints then glued with pl400 and nailed both sides. They were 28' long free spanned and still doing the job today .
