@@jstrange6009 the teeth are interchangeable, I also sharpen them on the saw with a grinder jig. Teeth are $250 a set and a new wheel is ~$2500. Thanks for watching!
Why do all bird sounds on peoples videos always sound so " Fake " . Its weird as obviously people aren't going around adding fake bird calls to videos yet nearly every video on RU-vid with birds in the background sound like its been added via AI . .
That looks like a big nut on the sawblade . We had a blade and someone made a flywheel out of steel plate . That was 40 years ago . I bet no one ever finished it .
Tossing edgings and bark slabs off over the running head saw is asking for one or a broken piece of one landing on the saw blade. Comes back at high speed and could take you out very fast, or maim you for life. Pray that it does not ever happen. Scarry !! We want to keep you around.
That being said, a belt leading to a live roller bed is definitely something I’d look into. You can find them cheap at auction with most of the small mills going out of business in the last 10-15 years
Some facts to know: As a rule each tooth requires 3-4 Horse power. For an example a 42 tooth blade would require 126 HP minimum to feed it properly. We can have a big enough engine but if the pulley reduction is not correct, it can cause one to run the engine at a lower speed producing less HP because the blade is set/hammered to run at a specific speed. Each tooth needs to take a 0.050 inch bite. The saw should be making saw chips and not saw dust. Saw dust will produce friction and drag on the saw. It also points to slow carriage feed rate or an underpowered situation. If power and feed rates are correct we could expect the carriage to travel 2.1 inches for every 1 revolution of the saw blade. 0.50 inches x 42 teeth = 2.1 inches of carriage travel. That is approximately 9 secs to cut thru a 10 ft log. If we find we are making saw dust and not saw chips because we have either to many teeth or not enough engine HP. An easily solution is to knock back every other tooth so that they are not cutting. My blades teeth needed changing and I only replaced every other tooth with a new tooth achieving the same result which was reducing the power needed by the blade, or doubling my HP depending on how you look at it. I seems strange to think that less saw teeth is actually more. It is for an under powered mill.
3/8 cable is more than enough. Use one length of cable not two. The threaded rod takes up the slack. Attach one end of the cable to the carriage's fixed cable attachment point. Then run the cable to the idler pulley at the end of the mill and then come over the top of the cable drum and make 4 or 5 wraps around the drum with the cable exiting the drum from the top to the other end of the mill running the cable thru the idler and then to the adjusting threaded bolt pulling as much slack as you can out of the cable when you clamp it to the bolt. Then adjust till the cable is taught by not tight tight. The wraps around the cable drum have a clamping effect and the cable will not slip. The cable will run on the drum just it does now. Before you tighten the cable you may want to push the carriage by hand to see how the cable feeds and leaves the cable drum. It will walk a little side to side as it feeds and you may have to move the wrap over to one side or other so that the cable does not walk off. You are going to love it when you get it setup correctly.
You have come a long way with your mill! Nice to see. It would work better if you would change the way you have the carriage cable attached on the drum. The cable ends should be attached to the Carriage. Take the middle of your cable length and make about 4 wraps around the drum. Then place a turn buckle at one of the cable ends that attach to the carriage. This will allow you to take up slack in the cable and not have all that back and forth jerking of the carriage.
I saw your video you posted. I think we might have done it close to the same day! You are just quicker at posting new videos. Thanks for watching. Stay safe ✌️
No electric on site! Thought about doing so kind of coolant heater piped into a radiator over a fire haha. Thanks for watching. And this old cat is hard to start even when it’s warm.
Cat D333A 6cyl. Turbo and I believe it’s 10.5L displacement. I’m fairly certain it’s a genset engine. It’s little hard starting but hums along after warming up. Thanks for watching!
I have an HD36. I have added more log rests and bunks. I don't have the log turner or the hydraulic clamp. But I have the log loader and the adjustable bunks. I've been running northern blades and since I had a handful of used blades I decided to sharpen them and check the set. Well, on their blades in my opinion the set is awful. I'm tempted to sit down and reset a new blade right out of the box. It's a little muddy where I have my mill set up otherwise I'm interested in trying to cut with the blades that I have sharpened and set. I haven't been able to use them yet. Otherwise I love my Mill.
You'd probably be better off using a motor to turn the saw and a generator on the back of that cat. Would use less fuel at least and no belts which can slip or wear out
If I was using this for a business I could agree. But I haven’t had to replace any belts yet. And got 5 spares with the saw. And I can buy a lot of fuel for the same cost of a 75hp electric motor and similar sized generator head. For a hobby setup it does me good. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching! I haven’t posted much the last few months. Life got ahead of me and the mill has been sitting dormant. But I have a few big projects planned for the new year. Many more videos to come. Stay tuned!
Hello I am starting to look for a saw mill a Frick that has a 53inch blade hoping to find one sitting in the woods somewhere that I can rebuild would like 4 heads and enough track oe I can make the track I guess/ Tristen
