Welcome to my channel! My overall intent is to share my passions for life while living in Alaska. My content consists of moto-vlogs, comparisons, tutorials, cooking great food, hiking, and general clowning around.
Awesome build. Be nice to see how much difference octane changes output. Like shell power 93 vs Marathon 94 vs Sunoco 92. I'm always hunting for ethanol free myself. Consistent fuel is key for consistent tune. I can tell a difference in the way the vrod runs different on power compared to Sunoco premium. Sunoco seems to run better
@@nbowling10trio unfortunately we have the worst fuel in America up here. 90 octane max. Chevron is the best we can get up here in my opinion, but still 90 octane.
@@robb907now I have to figure out chrome or black … that chrome looks awesome .. I have the black denim 2018 bob … mostly blacked out … Thanks again for the reply and info
I know its an older video, but damn if I'm not having to do this right now. Installed the Trask cover and after a 250 mile ride, bike was COVERED with oil. Had Fueling oil pump installed last fall and was running a vented dipstick. I'm pulling mine apart to to be sure the harley mechanic did put on the seal. This stuff can drive you nuts... lol
It sounds a little cleaner with the DB killer in, but definitely quieter. I didn’t like it because it wasn’t much louder than stock. On the other hand, it wasn’t overly obnoxious either with without the DB killer. On all it sounded OK but I didn’t run it for very long because honestly, I lost a lot of performance with this one.
I have another video where I tested this pipe against two other exhausts with the Dino sheets if you’re interested. That’s what I was getting at was that didn’t notice a difference with the DB killer in or out but the pipe itself didn’t perform well.
Going to be honest, I had to look that up, didn’t know it was a thing. Sounds like would help for wind buffeting which makes sense to me since most of the air buffeting a helmet comes from under the tank coming around the front tire. Let me know if it works.
No this is the 49th state. Non-Cat. 50 state is for California compliance and has a cat and therefore the DB killer is spot welded in place from what I understand.
One of the most interesting videos on different M8 exhausts. I have a ''23 LRS 117 with TBR Turnout and SE tune. All was done by dealer before I bought it and retained warranty. All in all it pulls strong down low, then a slight dip, then it pulls really well to the top.Later when i get an S&S 475, might go with your system. People say the M8 doesn't sound like a Shovelhead. Well, with your setup, it sounds magnificent, especially at idle. Thanks for the info. P.S.I was wondering why there was some light left at 11:30. Alaska!
I know you did this video about your exhaust but was wondering if your mirrors will touch the tank if you turned to sharp or if they have clearance. I was thinking about flipping mine over but didn’t think it would clear
No worries. On my Lowrider S they did not touch the tank at all. Friend of mine had a Fat Bob for a while and when he flipped the stock mirrors underneath, they did hit the tank. But he took a tubing bender and bent them so they were a little closer toward the grips so that they wouldn’t rub and they looked pretty cool like that also.
@@Breakout2018 nope I did not have that exhaust for very long. Ended up settling on a Fuel Moto Jackpot Riot for that bike. I have had two baggers since this video that I did big bore builds on and have run with Jackpot RTX 2 into 1 on both. That’s been consistently my favorite exhaust since I found the Riot on this bike. Excellent power numbers, excellent sound. And they look pretty good. The S&S exhaust just didn’t perform well at all. Not sure why.
@@Breakout2018 I have a clip of my Road Glide ST 160 hp build I did this last summer.. I have some footage that I haven’t posted yet. I’ll see if I can get that on there in the next day or two. I bet you’ll like that a lot. Still trying to figure this RU-vid thing out lol.
Likewise, brother, you as well. On another note, I sold that bike to my cousin but built a bigger badder big bore in a ‘22 Road Glide ST. I put a Jackpot RTX on that bike. 160 hp build. Sounds mean AF. The good thing is that it extends a few inches past the bag so it doesn’t blow my ears out, just everyone else’s. 😁
Hello Rob I’m also in Anchorage getting ready to order the 3rd exhaust for my 19’ Breakout Special. Been running the Bassani Road Rage II for the past 2 years. Stupidly loud! Also have the 475 kit on my 114, but went to the straight-cut valve gears. Your video has been exactly what I’ve needed to help me select my next exhaust system. Many, many thanks 🙏
You're a better man than me. I was told with my level of knowledge I could put a 124 on my bike. But I'm chicken-$h!t. I know I would have gotten lost. You have snow but you also have stunning venues. 2FD brother. SQUID ET1(SS/SW/MTS) US Navy, Ret.
Actually, it wasn’t that bad. It was 1/4 of the job that a 350 Chevy rebuild is. It was a lot of fun. Thank you for your service to our country brother! 🇺🇸
@@robb907just watched it again. My initial thought on the DYNO dip, is the shorty pipe phenomenon. I want to change my TRASK pipe to that Jackpot your rock'n. TRASK is a drag race set up. But I'm glad to see I was wrong about the dip. I suspect your Hpi gave the mail-in tunner the ability to tweek the air/fuel erasing the dip. I run a TRASK Shorty on my Fat Boy, and I have that dip. My bike doesn't like hold 35mph...that's the dip. I got a SE 64mm with 5.5 injectors. OBTW, you were right the first time, the smoothness in your DYNO line compared to your buddy is the more favorable over any gains of 1-3 Hp and/or Tq at those levels. The only other thing one would desire is a flatter line. I hope my line is as smooth as yours. Do you verify you Deck Height? Can you find out the mail in tunner did in contrast to the actual tuner? 2FD brother ET1(SS/SW/MTS) US Navy, Ret.
@@SQUID_Road_Glide I think Trask makes really nice products. Will be interesting to see how yours turns out with the Jackpot exhaust. Keep me posted. I’ve learned a lot about these big bores since this build. I have a 160 hp 131 RGST now. It had the same dip. Our dealer here doesn’t have a trained tuner but he does a good job. All he does is run the Power Vision Autotune feature on the dyno. On this Lowrider I called Fuel Moto and talked to them about it and emailed the map back and forth. But now Billy has learned enough that he talks to them directly while the bike is on the dyno and sends them data logging. Then he makes changes with their guidance. Fuel Moto told me that the dip is partially caused by a short pipe, but also the Power Vision autotune for some reason. Either or can be manually tuned out though. My buddy’s map is tuned with the Harley tuner, which is also an autotune process on the dyno, but I think he can connect with Harley for any issues. But notice how good it did for a Harley product with no dip. My Road Glide was a little trickier to tune because it had us a lot of nice goodies on it. But Billy made it run really nice. 131 screaming Eagle cylinders with 11.5 :1 compression pistons 7.1 injectors Wood, WM8 9960 Cam .600 lift Ward +1 heads HPI 62mm throttle body S&S oil pump Baker 30 tooth compensator Rekluse Torquedrive manual clutch Trask basket Jackpot RTX Baker Grudgebox 6spd overdrive Trask vented transmission cover And I think that’s it. I don’t have any money left ha!
It's me, with a new handle; SKWID Rider's Shipmate You never know who's watching you, and how what they see may inspire. S&S 129ci Kit S&S Head Bolts/ Cylinder studs/ Tapped cuffs/Roller Rockers Fueling Gorilla Rocker Shafts T-Man Head Breathers Fueling Reaper 508 Chest Race Kit T-Man No Loss air cleaner Thunder Max Tuner *HPI 70mm Throttle Body and Manifold *6.8 Scream’n Eagle fuel injectors *Evolution Stage 1 Clutch pack *Man-O-War Sprocket *Hayden Primary chain tensioner Zippers Duel Hydraulic piston and cam gear set *Other Doo-Dads Currently waiting on the Scream'n Eagle heads I sourced then sent to Johnson Engine Technology J.E.T. SilverBAK's new cylinders and cam chest is installed. Putting on heated grips. SKWID ET1(SS/SW/MTS) US Navy, Ret. Killmonger:2020 Fat Boy SilverBAK: 2021 Road Glide
Nice build and great results.. About to do the same with mine, 2020 FB 114 to 128. Looks like you kept the OEM cam plate and oil pump, is that right? If so how is it doing.? One of the things im on the fence to replace because its running just fine with stage 2.
Thanks I appreciate that. Everything I have learned is that you don’t need to update past 2020 because the sumping issue has been corrected with the third gen HD pump however, I went with the S & S oil pump for my newest 131 build on my ‘22 road glide ST. Probably not necessary, but regardless just make sure that you use the seal from the stock pump or buy a brand new one for 10 bucks because without that seal, you will have problems transferring too much oil through the pinion, bearing into the crank case. if you want more info on that then i have a video I did when I installed the seal that my mechanic forgot to put for the build I did on the road glide. Basically, the $10 seal is more important than the $800 upgraded oil pump. This is the video about the seal: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bzzr8QO7_RE.htmlsi=ndcAtoAXeV1yT_3d
So if u have the seal on the oil pump will u still get oil in the intake on a newer bike?? I also have the trask cover i dont think trhe mechanic used a seal becaise the kit didnt come with one how would i know???
I don’t believe so. Stranger things have happened I suppose but seems like it’s highly unlikely. You have to get the seal from Harley too so if they didn’t use the one that came off of the stock pump then it’s probably not in there.
I had to reread your question sorry. You would know your mechanic did not use the old seal or a new one because you would have a whole lot of oil coming out the vent tube on the Trask cover tube if they did not use a seal. If you don’t have oil coming out of it, then I would say that they used a new seal or the old one. Also, pull your air cleaner off and see if you have excessive oil going into your throttle body. The Trask cover vent is supposed to eliminate that, and so far it is on mine. Hope this helps.
I do have oil coming into my intake. Once the bike is warmed up and I Rev it, u can see oil mist shoot onto the trask window. Also, my old seal was still on the old oil pump. Now, he thinks he put a seal on that he had, but being, he's not a harley shop or even a proper shop. I know my stupidity for taking It to a guy that I didn't research properly. That being said though if the seal was in it shouldn't shoot any mist onto my window of my air cleaner with the trask transmission cover now correct?? I also see oil in the throttle body after running it for say half a hr of riding. I do ride a bit aggressive I'm always in 2500- 4500 rpm range but this has me concerned now that he didn't put that seal on. Any advise or insight would be appreciated thanks
@@Avankaurparmar it sounds like there isn’t a seal on the pump or you have an excessive amount of blow by for another reason. Do you have any crank case vent at all? Vented dipstick or Trask transmission cover vent, etc. I hate to say this, but you should probably have that oil pump, pulled and checked because too much oil going in your throttlebody will ruin that engine. On mine, the oil was coming out the transmission cover vent, because when I accelerate the bulk of the oil would transition to the back and come right out the vent. That happens because the oil passes through the pinion shaft bearing which is what the seal prevents. Additionally, And this occurs you’ll have too much oil in your crank case, then your crank will churn in it and create excessive pressure and loss of power. That excessive pressure is why you get oil coming into your throttlebody, make sense?
I do have the trask transmission cover on and the bike is brand new only has 3500 miles on it. That's why I was wondering about the seal. These new m8 don't have that much blow by especially when u vent the Cranckcase so that's why I'm wondering why my motor still has oil going into the I take like that. Guess I'll have to rip out the oil pump and check if it has that seal in the pump now!!!
Originally I was going to go with a stage III 10.75:1 low compression build. Then I decided to go with stage IV 11.5:1. So the math works out to shave new heads versus higher compression pistons. You end up with the same result. The heads were already CNC ported and polished with behind valve springs, so all they had to do is shave them, and ship them.
Sounds like you have the 50 state version which has a cat converter in it. I have heard some guys say that they grind that bolt off and chisel it out of there.
@@robb907that’s exactly what it was. Ended up drilling the nipple down, and getting a torx and getting it out. Only to find out that my exhaust has a cat inside of it. I tell ya, that was about a 6 hour job drilling that aluminum mesh out of it.
My 2019 Road King Special 128” has this exact issue. My S&S oil pump was installed In November 2019. Wonder if this seal was even out! I had a cam change in January 2021 not sure if he removed the oil pump? Will be a big deal because I have fueling Heavy Duty one piece pushrods so the rockers will have to come off also! Wondering if it isn’t cheaper to just goto a vented dipstick!! 😮
That is a conundrum to be in for sure. Possibly go with adjustable push rods? Could save you some work and can get you some answers quickly for a lot less money. I don’t know if the S&S oil pump had the groove cut then or not but I would definitely want that seal there after learning what I’ve learned about this even if I had to buy a new oil pump. It could be the difference of $800 versus $8000. I used the fueling vented dipstick, and it seemed to work OK but I pretty sure that motorcycle also had the seal because it was a 2020 CVO. That said, I did get oil in the throttlebody, not bad, but did have residue. This Road Glide is bone dry. Hope that helps.
Makes sense since to regular Harley pump does. Which also makes me think the real scavenging problem was the oil passing through the pinion shaft bearing. Also makes me wonder if either S&S or SE are necessary. Better to be sure I guess.
Sorry! but the struggle is real… 😂. I’ve heard good things about that Cam. If it makes you feel any better, I have bought two more jackpot pipes for two other bikes, and still my favorite for horsepower and torque.
@@gambietti yup I know it. The S&S has been out a while and the other 2 are relatively new by comparison. My theory is that the S&S rear cylinder pipe bend is too tight where it curves around the timing cover plus the muffler being as long as it is. But I’m not an expert.
@@gambietti you won’t really have to worry about it until you go to stage two. Have you looked into HPI or TBR? The short megaphone style muffler makes a difference I believe.
