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Good info, but the music is SO distracting! And why does everyone spend so much time explaining what they’re going to do, instead of just DOING it? We don’t need a full minute introduction. Just get on with it. That said, it’s been years, so I’m sure you’ve improved in video making. Regardless, the info here is fantastic and exactly what I needed. I just wish I didn’t have to miss an episode of House of the Dragon just to get this info. Lol. Good job. Thank you!
I am late to the party by very glad I found this video. I was looking for this very advice for an upcoming project that might lead to more. I have seen some videos that are of the same advice but yours seem to make me that much more confident and filled in some questions. Thank you.
Hi there, we carry both Kirschen from Germany and Narex from the Czech Republic. We like both brands - the Narex have a slightly more substantial 'feel' whereas the kirshen are a little more refined/delicate. But both have great steel and will do the business 😎
@@timbeconaus thx so much for your reply! Would love to buy from you, I’m guessing shipping to USA would be rather expensive! Do you guys ship to USA? I live in Michigan.
This is just an over engineered holdfast. Just make the bench top thicker and use those already. No need to get locked in to overpriced brand name crap.
Hi David, it does sound like your machine has an issue - we would expect good performance right up to maximum cut height. Please email the Sherwood team at support@sherwoodtools.com.au and they will get you running :-)
@@timbeconaus Thanks for responding to my comment. What do you suggest I do. The machine is located in Mt Gambier SA...a long way from a Timbecon store.
Where do you get the collets to hold bearings on? I work smaller than this, with 1/4 or 3/16" shafts (lutherie). I've seen bearings here and there, but of course they need to be held in place.
just curious why the edge of the board has to be placed at the center of a finger or finger void.. if it's placed flush, it just moves the joint down a bit no?
I set mine up as demonstrated. However, cut jammed when bit tried to cut into jig frame. Bit was exactly timber depth. Backed router back as little as possible, and it cut fine. However, the horiz piece had a paper thin "leftover" layer next to the frame. How would you set up to prevent bit-to-frame contact? Add a sacrificial board below H board? ?? Risking bit-to-frame for each different H board depth will eat bits :(
Did you make the undermount drawer sides flush to the bottom? That was not correct and it allows the slide to be seen. You need a half inch from the bottom of the side to the drawer bottom. You lose some interior drawer depth with undermount.
Yes, you would normally make the drawer sides deeper to conceal the runners. However, that would be a little counterproductive in a video that is about showing the drawer runners 😉
Great tutorial. I only watched until the end of sharpening the plane blade but two things; I thought you should put machine oil on the leather before applying the honing paste and you only honed the face of the blade. What about the back? I've just bought a wet grinder and I'm thinking I'll probably strop the front of the blade like you did and then do the back on a fine stone but it would be quicker to strop both sides. I'm afraid though of putting a micro bevel on the back. Any chance someone might enlighten me on this?
Great video mate. I have one of these and your video helps a lot in doing my own setup on my Sherwood table saw. Will definitely watch your next video. Good job
Yes, Patrick is Australian so he tends to shorten (or lengthen) words. For example, in Australia a gas station is a 'servo', a liquor store is a 'bottle-o', etc. In woodwork we assume that 'mil' means 'millimeter', rather than 'milligram', 'millinewton, 'millilitre' and so on.
Hi, sorry for a silly question, but what two router bits do you use for making these? What side does each bit cut on the jig? As you can tell I'm only new to this. Cheers
