The following are tutorial and demonstration videos of MAX EPOXY A/B RESIN SYSTEM. Through 2 decades of designing and fabricating of industrial polymers and advanced engineered materials in the composites industry, this collection of instructional videos demonstrates the proper usage of polymer chemistry suited for the novice and advanced users. I hope these video posts finds its way to those that seek its content. Gerald Lapuz CEO/Chief Chemist Polymer Composites, Inc.
We've done drill and fill for other projects where the wood has split due to too much mechanical load applied to wood stringers for decking that dried out. It is an excellent technique to induce deeper resin impregnation. However, before doing any resin reinforcement, you should determine if the wood is salvageable for structural safety. The wood was replaced, and the replacement was coated to create a waterproof barrier and stop water intrusion. The old wood floor was too wet and too far gone to be salvaged. Another method to induce deeper resin saturation when injecting epoxy resin into damaged wood is to incorporate a small amount of a fast-evaporating solvent, like acetone, with the resin mixture. Acetone is an effective diluent that reduces the viscosity and surface tension, creating better absorption. Another effect of acetone dilution is that it slows the epoxy resin's reaction rate. The longer the epoxy resin stays liquid, the more time it has to impregnate wood porosity. Add no more than 5%; adding more will not be as effective in viscosity reduction as the first 5%. If too much acetone gets entrapped within the cured resin matrix, the cured epoxy will be gummy as the acetone acts like a volatile plasticizer. (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plasticizer). The entrapped acetone eventually evaporates, creating a loss in volume, so the cured epoxy shrinks, causing poor cured performance. A little acetone goes a long way for the intended purpose. Keep injecting the resin into the drilled holes until saturation. Once it cures, the wood porosity is sealed and will no longer be absorbent. Give it several days to cure and outgas any acetone residual. Next, mix another batch with no acetone dilution and fill the drilled holes with the epoxy resin mixture. Once cured, it acts like a rebar reinforcement. Check out this link to another resin system where acetone dilution was used to seal wood and prevent water intrusion. Video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AGsVo_TuoE8.htmlsi=amxU3aEMM73BrJvv eBay link to the product used in the video demo: www.ebay.com/itm/311947117608 Please review the product description on the eBay page on how to calculate acetone dilution and application procedures. Hope this helps.
Worst Thing Is Thaat You Check Before Everything You Do So You Know Its All 100%, But After You Do This You See That One Wire Is Not Getting The Signal Out Upon CHeckup And You realise Thats The Wire You Did Not Check Before Eather And Thought Its Fine.. AksMe How I Know The Pain.. :D
The resin system used in this video is our MAX 1618 A/B. It cures at room temperature and does not heat curing. Here is the link to our eBay store for the MAX 1618 A/B resin system. www.ebay.com/itm/222625113128 Please review the description page, where you will find its physical and mechanical properties, instructional videos, and other related information for this product. Thanks Gerald
@@TheEpoxyExpertsWould using a heat cured resin make something more durable than a resin that cures at room temperature? Do you have any video recommendations for heat curing with a vacuum bag? I imagine that would cause some issues without the right set up but worth doing if it's a tougher product not to mention the time saved the one I was looking at cures in only 30 minutes. With heat curing you could make like 20 a day with the same mold.
@@christiancoleman5870 A typical heat-curing resin system has an activation temperature of 300°F. Most components used to make the flow board cannot withstand that curing temperature, so it is inadvisable to use one.
@@TheEpoxyExpertsI know of an epoxy that cures at 250°F in 30 minutes. Do you know of any alternative components for vacuum bagging that are heat resistant up to 250°?
We use both. For our QC test, we use an analytical temperature data logger with 3 to 4 probes to measure the ambient temperature, the center of the mass where the highest exotherm is generated, and the outside of the 4-fluid-ounce container. The data logger measures temperature versus time. In this video, a large transformer is in the center of the potting mass, so an infrared temperature gun is used to obtain the overall temperature of the entire potting. Here is a link to a video in which multiple temperature points were used to log the ambient temperature and two specimens to determine the temperature variation. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-knLmJ4H7y2w.htmlsi=BbPGZIXGTL6JYbH9&t=25
A vacuum chamber will not create the consolidation force (pressing) needed to consolidate the fiber stack. The vacuum pump is the equipment that creates the negative force, the vacuum bagging setup is what needed to create the form. Check out these videos for more information; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qo3LzBwAmVI.html or ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jfuaQK5YdeU.htmlsi=sUAIYjS7Hdt74k2C
As many as you wish. Allow 3 to 4 hours between pours or until the previous pour has cured the solid and cooled from the heat produced during the reaction. Flying bugs are tracked by the heat and from the light reflection, so keep watch to avoid surface defects.
Impressive video. Well explained. I've been using Max ZBond for over a decade now with great results. It's the goto epoxy for building boats both wood and power boat.
This resin system complies with NASA Low Outgassing Materials. Properly mix and cured MAX BOND THIXOTROPIC yields <0.2% Total Material Loss per ASTM E595-15(2021) test procedure. The NASA requirements for outgassing are as follows: CVC <0.1% TM > 1 % TML-WV <1%.
I'm looking to apply epoxy to a ceramic artwork with a spherical shape. This piece has been glazed and fired in a kiln. I'm eager to understand how to ensure a successful epoxy application and curing process without any unintended spills. Your professional insights and experience would be invaluable in this regard. Furthermore, I have a specific question about the process. I'd like to partially peel the edges of the epoxy while it's still in a semi-dried state (mild, but not sticky), essentially separating it from the ceramic surface. I'm curious if the epoxy, in its semi-dried , has sufficient thickness to resist this peeling action. Your advice on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
after two of my epic failures to make an epoxy countertop, I researched a lot and finally, I found the right answer and the solution. Thank you so much for your sincere effort that nobody told like this before. Everybody is selling their products.
We are preparing to use this in a cool weather environment (central Illinois). I see that you were quite bundled up while creating this video. Do you have any temperature ranges that MUST be maintained during cure time?
I have some issues with degassing , I normally use a pump and cover the pcb with a glass bell, but sometimes theres not enough and it fails, I.mean the pcb doesn't work again, do you have any idea why after epoxy some electronic parts just dead?
Just did this to my rv. Not sure if the glue got where it was supposed to go but I can tell you one thing ..this glue is well past the definition of strong, it is unbelievably strong. Some puddled near my step ladder foot and it fused the ladder to my driveway like it was welded. If the glue went to the delam area I have no doubt it will hold better than new. The issue for me was getting the glue in the right spot through a marker light hole.
Hello, Thank you for your comment. Yes, MAX GPE A/B does yield high strength upon cure. To help remove the cured puddle, use a heat gun to warm the spot and then use a metal spatula to scrape off the cured resin. Heat will make the cured resin soften for mechanical removal. As far as injecting the mixed resin in the right place, you may need to drill injection holes on the very top of the delamination bubble, inject the mixed MAX GPE, and then apply pressure to bond the delamination back into place. Use an automotive body filler to patch the hole and the paint to color match. Here is a video demonstration from a customer that used this process to repair his delamination problem. Thanks again, and let me know if I can be of further assistance. Vid 1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nmSbVD42jNk.html Vid 2 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ztYjLolbhrg.html
The vacuum pump is rated at 7 CFM and it is dual-stage. The vacuum pressure was measured at 29.4 in.Hg steady state for the 4 hours duration. The pump used is similar to this sold at eBay; www.ebay.com/itm/166104656200
The short answer is yes; we have customers that use the MAX CLR as a coating for onboard drinking water storage for boats and RVs and produce good results. However, the specification for that application is not the same as the FDA specification for food contact. For portable water, the specification is NSF/ANSI 61.
It's a DIY. Fairly easy to do if you wish to try making one. We have all the resin systems available. Just let me know, and I'll gladly assist you with the procedures. Here is another aquarium background, Thanks, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TAZD0wtsVkU.html
the acetone and heat gun trick is nice.. i work for a multi million dollar company and they have us pop the little bubbles for hours while it cures with toothpicks.
Thanks. Here are a couple more vids showing this technique; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-v9mJy-62bXc.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-C9g_GRTobUg.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2PKn-59pHNM.html I would ask for a raise ;-).
Yes, as long as there is access to where the resin can be injected, you should be fine. Park the RV on a level plane, inject as much resin as you can until it is saturated, then allow it to cure. This resin system has a very long working time so the injected MAX GPE stays as a liquid longer and infuses. Please make sure to place a catch at the bottom to capture any excess resin that drips out. Here is a link to a soft floor repair using the MAX GPE A/B; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Tg0bUHLq6m0.html
Here is a link to our vacuum infusion video using the same MAX 1618 A/B resin system. This video has more detailed information regarding the vacuum infusion process. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qo3LzBwAmVI.html
If the camera has no moving parts, you can use the MAX CLR resin as a clear potting or embedding resin. When the resin cures, it is permanently bonded to the Arduino PCB. We have a customer that uses this resin system for potting and encapsulating lights and underwater cameras for deep-water diving and cinematography. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-655A6Nevaac.html
Where do you find the foam brushes you use? I use them when painting with acrylics, and the sponges lose something in their performance about halfway through and I have change stroke/coverage technique. I DO understand sponges change the more paint or product that gets in them, but is there a kind you have found that holds its beginning characteristics longer?(sorry for so long a question. Just trying to explain what I meant with the question.
The brush used in the video was a standard foam brush sold at HDepot or Lowes. The tenacity that affects the foam brush can also be from the epoxy formulation. Some epoxy resins contain too much monomer that affects the foam properties making it soggy. The resin system MAX CLR does not contain the monomer typically used in hobby epoxy resin, especially in 1:1 mix ratio competitive systems. The monomers are added to adjust the mix ratio to 1:1, and too much addition increases the acerbic nature of the formulation. Since this resin system, MAX CLR complies with FDA mandates it offers less of the problem you noted In the video, notice that the application method where the brush stroke was only going in one direction, not back and forth thus reducing cavitation and helping minimize air bubbles from forming. Hope this helps.
If the Aquaculture Black Is a powder, yes, it can be used with the MAX ACR. If the pigment is a liquid or a paste, you may want to check the liquid that was used to make the paste. Do not use pigments that contain water, as it is not compatible with epoxy resins.
Invert the arrangement upside down and use warm water to rinse the silk plants. This is how silk plant arrangements are cleaned according to our customers. To clean the inside from dust and debris, I was told rubbing alcohol diluted 50 with distilled water (distilled water prevents spotting inside the glass vase) was used to rinse out dust, and the alcohol was dumped and allowed to dry. Make sure not to allow the diluted alcohol to be in prolonged contact with the cure MAX TCR and allow it to dry thoroughly. If the arrangement uses floral green tape, you may want to just use compressed air to blow off any dirt or dust. Using the cleaner may cause the florist tape to bleed color and stain the arrangement. We used to make Silk Plant Cleaners for Walmart, but we don't sell the cleaner anymore, and I have not tried the new spray cleaner they sell now. Hope this helps.
Hello! Would this acetone bubble eliminating method work in colder temps? I work in 40 degrees F and I’m sure the bubbles are deeper and may be harder to rid. So far I use a propane torch and seems I have to come back constantly. Thank you
You may want to use the torch method at 40°F. Acetone will still evaporate but at a much slower rate, and this can cause the epoxy-coating surface to cure much slower. A suitable procedure is to apply the epoxy and give it 5 to 10 minutes so the air bubble can rise to the surface and easily remove using the torch. Allow the coating to continue to outgas for another 10 minutes. The remaining air bubbles will rise to the surface for easy removal. The same procedure was used in the video demo, where the degassing procedure was done 10 minutes apart. So, ensure the bubbles are on the surface before torching to prevent wrinkles from appearing on the surface caused by applying too much heat. Here is a video demo where the propane torch was used for degassing the surface. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-D09mhf1eXPQ.html Thanks
If you happen to see this, I know what I’m using will cure at room temperature. But will anything result in a negative affect if it is heated too much? I’m working on a navy ship and somebody mixed it wrong and I’m dealing with taking it back apart. The bosses are convinced that it didn’t cure because of the temperature being too low. I know that’s not what happened, but after I clean everything off the last bad pour, my boss and his boss want heat to be blown onto it. And the heater they want to use will get it very hot. Upwards of 150°F. I almost think that could be a problem when it comes to the bubbles being released From the potting compound. Any tips would be appreciated, if you even see this. And by the way I’m dealing with Stycast 2741. It is not fun to work with, and it is not healthy at all. To the point where I want to do it when nobody else is working in the area within 30 to 50 feet. And I want to wear a half face respirator along with a Tyvek suit. My boss also told me to throw all the waste into a dumpster. I definitely did not listen to that part, just a glimpse into what I’m dealing with as far as upper management.
Hello Jeff, several factors will produce a bad cure with a potting compound that typically cures at room temperature. The most common is due to 'resin crystallization', where PART A or resin component has solidified into crystals due to cold temperature exposure. Since the PART A resin component is in a solid crystal state, the curing agent will not blend properly to form a homogenous mixture with the resin component. Exposing the potting to heat will not cure the mixture. You will, however, melt the resin crystals back to a liquid and create more mess. Here is a video link regarding resin crystallization this issue is common during seasonal changes where the resin or PART A gets exposed to temperatures below 57°F. Similar to how honey will freeze solid when exposed to cold temperatures, the same happens to epoxy resin. To revert crystallization, the resin component must be warmed to 150°F to melt the crystallization and bring the resin back to its liquid form. The resin and curing agent must be liquid for the two components to mix properly. Here is a video demo; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YGwapG-lROY.html The other common error is improper mix ratio and how well the resin and curing agent were blended If the resin and curing agent were mixed in the wrong mix ratio, It would produce a gummy cure. Lastly is the mixing technique, which produces wet or uncured spots. Here is a video demonstration for your review showing the effects of poor mixing; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x31gkzdZkiI.html As far as disposal, as long as the resin has converted to a solid, it is OK to dispose of as normal solid waste. If it is wet or tacky, the waste needs to be treated as chemical waste, and the disposal method should be in the product safety data sheet. In both cases, adding heat will not promote further curing. I hope this helps.
