I highly recommend the Kondor Blue cage for the C70, I ran it for a few years and it was great. The top plate secures into the shoe as well as the sensor locator hole so there's two firm attachment points. Dead on about the C400 accessories, I've been waiting for a decent "budget" cage because no way I'm dropping $3K AUD for a few small pieced of CNC'd aluminum.
Oh yeah I forgot about the kondor blue one for c70, two points of contact would be way better!I’m always going to make sure there’s no ‘floating’ parts in the future ones I buy. I emailed Smallrig today and they said they don’t have current plans for a c400 cage at this stage. But now that you’ve mentioned kondor blue I might contact them and see if they’ve got anything in the works.
@@videographerstuff539 Totally feel that, even without the follow-focus on the flex from cages like that (especially when felt through a top handle with a heavy monitor) gives me pause. Not a bad idea, I'll shoot them a message too and try to apply some pressure!
@@videographerstuff539I’m curious if it goes low enough. Besides that, general fit and finish, ergonomics, any potential weak points and pain points, how smooth and adjustable is the head? If it quick and easy to adjust, is it easy to take the head off? Does the 75mm adapter move around when doing so? How does it compare to tripods in a similar price point such as the smallrig or sirui? How does it compare to sachtlers? How much force does it take to latch down the legs? Is it smooth and snappy like the flowtechs or a little less so, like the sirui svt75?
Hey mate, I coved off a bunch of those point for you in my review. 75mm is locked in tight, no movement. Very to removed the head yes. I’ve never actually used a sachtlers or sirui tripod so I couldn’t talk to that one. I’m popping another video up soon talking through the Tilta, Smallrig and manfrotto tripods I have to show some additional differences.
Luckily I had an assistant for this trip. The extra set of hands for the airport is a huge help in its self. In trips where I don’t have budget for an assistant I limit it to just 4 cases and a backpack. I can manage that.
@@videographerstuff539 Thanks , I ask as Ive been doing more one man band shoots with travel than I ever had before. I recently got this very small set up of two zhiyun lights ,G300 and X60, with a travel series Godox dome 90cm , for interviews, with Think tank airport to cabin carry fx9 and fx3 and a couple of lenses . I see ,mostly US based video vloggers , that seem to cart around a ton of gear by themselves , well out of a truck mostly , but still massive interview setups for one person .
That sounds like a sweet set up! Those Godox soft boxes are really nice, especially the ones that have multiple baffles inside, crazy good for the price. Where are you based? If i know I’m only shooting indoors then I take less, but often I end up needing to light for outdoors as well so that leads to some extra stuff. The extra gear does lead to either needing to hire larger rental cars, or having to get maxi taxis everywhere when on those travel shoots. Which does make it more difficult sometimes. But realistically, whatever the clients happy to pay for, I’m happy to bring.
@@videographerstuff539 Based in Tokyo Japan . Very few outside shoots especially in Tokyo , either too hot or too cold and alot of noise , endless speaker announcements and general madness. Often using the bullet train as an alternative to flights .
Wow that’s sounds like lots to contend with at any given time! Bullet train sounds fun though! High speed rail hasn’t made its way to Australia yet, our trains are pretty slow!
I did cut mine yes. I don’t think it’s mandatory but I also don’t know if leaving them long would make any difference either. Sorry I don’t have a specific answer 🥸
Hey there, yeah for clarity I should have put it in during the example, I was in a rush. But in my opinion it still has more flex than the Tilta, particularly along the top and side.
It's $30 US, and that's still WILD for what it amounts to. A better solution in my humble opinion... get a 4 pack of "double spigot", which costs $9 USD for all 4 of them. The length is similar to that baby pin lenght, and one side goes into the knuckle grip and the other side screws in to the light. the spigot has a flat enough side on the base to make a firm connection on the light. maybe im missing something, i just dont see why it needs to be $30 for that accessory. what is it providing over a standard double spigot??
You’re totally right a spigot is the easiest and cheapest option for sure, but I found the light would start to slowly spin loose a bit. Just made me nervous 😬 Those locator pins make it harder it to loosen easily. I will happily use spigot for straight up and down mounting but I’ll use this mount for when I go over talent as hair light.
I really appreciate you showing this! Trouble is you can’t tilt any further down from here because the holder is bottomed out on itself. So the face of the light is perpendicular to the floor. Let me know if you find your old brackets 😉😊 Thanks again!!
Arh ok I get that now! What about if you just bought a grip head to go on the light stand? Something cheap like a neewer brand. I’ll pop another example video of this up just for fun 🤩
How they designed this new mount/bracket without the ability to tilt the fixture down on a regular light stand is beyond idiotic. I am also confused about how the head cable locks into the control unit. Mine does not compress and twist- not sure what's up with that. Two strikes against this new fixture. I want to like it...
Does the cable lock on when you plug it in? Does it look like your cable has any damage to the end? Maybe the end is faulty, what a pain if it is. With the tilt, did yours come with the ‘Tilting Stand Mount’ I’m pretty sure you can pop the straight baby pin into that and still use it that way. Let me know how you go,
You are kind to reply! No. The cable does not pop/lock onto the control box. I’ve pushed quite hard on it and it does not lock. You’re right- bummer. My fixture came with the new bracket which is nice except that unless I’m using a cstand I can’t tilt the fixture down. If they made it so you could still swap pins that would beautiful. I wonder if I can get the old bracket and pins anywhere? Thanks again. Cheers.
I think I sent mine to the recyclers 😣 otherwise you could have had them! I’m not sure if it will help you but I just popped two shorts up showing my cable working close up and another video with the angle mount and baby pin that came with mine on a basic light stand.
Nice kit. I use Matthews stands when I can afford them. I wonder if they aren't as popular outside the States. I do have a Kupo 3-Way Baby Adapter. I love it for reducing the amount of stands I have to bring and mounting multiple modifiers to one stand.
Yeah Matthew’s definitely comes with a price premium here. That 3-way baby adapter is a great option as well. I’ve only ever put two lights on it, what do you put on yours? I think we are lucky these days now’s there are so many brands available.
Thanks for the awesome video, as a R5C owner I wonder if the Samyang 85mm lens would suffer from video specific functions grayed out in the settings manual? I have an older sigma lens that has this issue, can't adjust focus speed etc... Would be great to know before I pull the trigger on this one :)
I thought it was strange that it didn’t have one. It’s does have the velcro in the right spot for one. Maybe it’s an additional purchase they want us to make?
@@videographerstuff539 That would reason enough not to buy one , every soft box ,or dome (last month bought Godox QR 90T) all come with an internal baffle. I mean if they make you pay extra for that ?? It's like a restaurant chargers you for a knife and fork :) I would get back to them, Im sure it's meant to be part of the kit. Should make a big difference on a COB light to get the front evenly lit , and so a softer light.
@@videographerstuff539 I have intellytech mega 4 and 6 as key lights for interviews , but was looking for smaller travel kit. Bought the zhiyun G300, and went for the Godox T (travel ) series 90cm , as they are not so deep , so smaller travel bag and take up less room on location and 90cm as sort of minimum source size for a key. Ive only used it twice , but yeah it does the job , and the QR (quick release ) system is pretty quick. The G300 is also a win , very small , alot of power , and no fan noise in normal mode.
Sounds good, I’ll have to check em out! It’s funny that we have to buy different gear to be able to travel with. If only weight wasn’t an issue on planes! Haha
Great tutorial, thank you! Just picked up my first set of RODE Wireless Pros and this was a big help! Now I need to learn about using timecode (not even sure my Sony A7III supports timecode).
@@videographerstuff539 I'm not a professional, so I just have my one camera, but I'm curious if timecode makes it easier to sync my audio in post which'll save me a few steps. I have a Zoom H1N but with the new RODE's, I'm thinking I'll never pull that out again.
Yeah it’s interesting to learn about timecode. With the A7 you would need to record the timecode as an audio signal using the 3.5mm jack. Depending on your editing software you’d then tell it to convert the that signal to timecode. Its a complicated way to do it :) Once you set the rode up it can send the timecode audio to one channel and the other channel would have the audio coming from the transmitter units. In general if you’re only using one camera, it’s much easier not to worry about timecode and just record the audio straight into camera. Then if you need to use the files on the rode you can just ‘sync via audio’ in your editing program. Hope that all makes sense 🤞
Only a small Amaran P60X. I am going to try a Godox LDX100Bi to get some more punch. I try and keep everything to a minimum due to room in the vehicle.
Yeah that totally makes sense for sure. I haven’t tried that Godox panel but looks like it could throw a nice soft light. Another option if you wanted a bit more punch for a similar price is the Aputure 60d (or x). The bag is about the size of a size 12 shoe box. Tucker for thought 🤙
Did you have any issues with the Sennheiser into the Theos? I was told it wouldnt work well as it needs 7v and the Theos only gives it 5v but it sounds good to me?!
I also use a Deity Theos with a C70. Obviously there are many different ways to do this, but generally speaking in these kinds of scenarios, it is IMO better to use the 3.5mm out from the Theos D2RX (“Receiver”) into the 3.5mm "Mic" input on the C70 (Channels 3 and 4), with the external or on-camera mic being a professional XLR mic, rather than a 3.5mm output mic. The preamps on Channels 1 and 2 on the C70 are plenty good enough for a professional XLR mic. The “Out Type” on the D2RX would of course be set to “A = RX1 + RX2”. When taking the 3.5mm output from the Theos D2RX into the 3.5mm "Mic" input on the C70 (again, Channels 3 and 4), I set the C70's "Mic" input to LINE (pg 4 of the Audio tab). Then I can set the “Level” of the Theos D2RX receiver to 0dB. I then adjust the amount of Gain on the C70's "Mic" input (again, in LINE mode) to whatever is needed to maintain a consistent level from Transmitter to Receiver to Camera, usually around 55 on the C70's Gain for Channels 3 and 4 (pg 2 of the Audio tab). This should prevent distortion at each hop, and it also gives some breathing room in the gain staging at the D2RX Receiver level, vs. needing to have it all the way down at -20dB. Hope this makes sense.
@@videographerstuff539 Happy to help! Thank you so much for making the video and drawing attention to the issues. I should note that I was an audio engineer for many years before I ever got into video, so audio is still my native language, as it were.
Thank you for this strategy! This seems to have a much cleaner signal for me than using "Mic" level. Question... Why do you suggest Ch3/4 instead of channels 1/2? Are the preamps different on the C70 in those channels?
Yeah I’m not sure, but where I come unstuck with the options is being about to quickly turn the dial the lower or increase audio levels on say my lav. I know I always have the 32bit float file on the device up sometimes I shoot for tv stations and they don’t want separate files, they just want the audio within the video file. Hope that makes sense
@@SoundItOutFilms Hi Eric! Sorry, I didn't see your reply until just now for some reason. Thanks so much for all your C70 content, btw! Love your channel. There are really two reasons why I recommend using Chs3/4 instead of Chs1/2 in this scenario. The first reason is because if there's any chance at all to add a boom mic or an on-camera mic to the setup, a professional XLR mic is (IMO) quite a bit more preferable to using a 3.5mm based mic. Or maybe I'm even just using the built-in mics on Chs1/2 to pick up a little ambient sound in the space (they're not bad at all for that purpose). I want to be able to control the gain on those built-in mics with the knobs on the back of the camera on-the-fly. The second reason is perhaps a bit silly: I just like the simplicity of using a 3.5mm-to-3.5mm cable, rather than using a 3.5mm-to-miniXLR-splitter adapter cable. The only real gain (no pun intended) of using the Theos on Chs1/2 is having access to the gain knobs on the back of the C70. But if I'm gainstaging correctly through the system, I don't actually need to touch the gain on the C70's audio inputs anyway - there's enough headroom as long as I'm using sane levels. And it's also quick to adjust the gain for Chs3/4 anyway - I have "CH3/CH4 Level" saved in my Custom Menu. One of my Custom Menu pages is all Audio-related stuff, so it's super quick to get to if I really needed to change it. I'll confess I haven't spent too much time trying to go from the Theos D2RX Receiver into Chs1/2 on the C70. If you really wanted to go that way instead, I would assume the best move would be to make sure you have Chs1/2 on the C70 set to LINE level input, which I would think should also allow you to keep the D2RX Receiver's "Level" at 0dB. But I don't know the respective impedances of the C70's Chs1/2 inputs vs its Chs3/4 inputs offhand. You asked if the C70's preamps on Chs3/4 are different than its preamps on Chs1/2. I would say almost certainly yes. I realized, too, though, that I'm kind of misnaming things here: On the C70, you can of course assign whichever set of audio inputs you want to either Chs1/2 or Chs3/4. There's no rule that the "INPUT Terminals" need to be assigned to 1/2. So really what I'm saying above is that I think it's advantageous to hook up the Theos D2RX Receiver to the "MIC Terminal" (that is, the 3.5mm jack). That 3.5mm jack could of course be assigned to Chs3/4 or Chs1/2, whichever makes more sense to you. Hope I didn't get too confusing there. Let me know if it makes sense or not...
Nice video man! I am new to sliders, but would like to try one out for my music videos. Which one would you recommend to start with of the two and why? Thanks!
Thanks! The only difference is the length, so it simply comes down to the amount to distance you like the camera to travel. There’s only 20cm difference in length but I feel you’d get more options with the longer one. Mainly because the camera can go that little bit longer before needing to return. Plus if you only needed to do a short slide you can set the start/stops to be short. Best of both worlds. A plus for the shorter one is if you need to travel with it. It could fit in a backpack if needed.
Hello, yep you sure can, there’s a supplied cable you get with the kit that you plug the receiver into your iPhone, then the two mics are ready to work straight on your phone. The cable is usbc to lighting. New iphones is usbc to usbc. 1 × SC21 USB-C to Lightning cable
Congratulations on the video. I found it very interesting, I have a Rode Wireless Pro with a COS 11D It seems to be going into saturation, What sensitivity do you recommend setting on the TX to avoid this saturation? In your opinion, what are the best settings to pair the Rode Wireless Pro with a COS 11D?
awesome man. good to know. i mic 2 rugby players up with lav in a GPS sports bra and the signal cuts in and out but that was expected. sometimes i can hear the audio and they are 50meters away.
Hey man, just playing with mine I just got. I'm surprised to hear a brushing sound from the belt that changes with the speed setting. It's more noticeable at slow speeds. It's not loud or anything but in a silent room you definitely hear it. Does yours also do that? I think I faintly hear it in the video but not sure.
I wonder if there’s a batch that’s been louder than others? With mine I can hear it but not enough to catch in lav or boom mic. How heavy is rig you’re putting on?
@@videographerstuff539 I talked with them and apparently it was because I was using DC power too strong (like an idiot..). I've ordered some NP-F to test, with a less powerful but still too powerful supply it was doing it much less already.
Thanks for the simple demo of the new bracket! I have a residential ceiling height and want a low profile hair light. This mount looks to be the best option. My only remaining concern is fan noise on the F22x. But may give it a go.
Thanks! I don’t think I’ve ever had a problem with the fan noise for that one. It has a good length head lead between the controller box and the light, So you can keep it away from the mic.
Yes the backup is totally an option but I wanted to monitor the audio as we were shooting. So not hearing it as we went wasn’t an option.Plus I hadn’t done the timecode sync.
