Cleaning an entire brick house this week due to old oxidation run off from some aluminum siding that was up in an eave Guess what, only Chem test that took paint transfer off was muriatic acid Kaaaaaaaaaboom
I seriously doubt that 4 bottles of MA in a case would be different concentrations. Would there be 4 separate MSDS's in the box? If one is 10 times as strong as the next you are buying junk from a non trusted foreign supplier. Acids are a bit more monitored than that in their labeling practices as well as there concentrations consistency to meet safety standards.
Typical American No Standards Shit splash job brickwork It’s even worse than when I was in the trade for 30 years way back I’ve had to Caulk bricklayers Absolutely horrible no standards shit like this many times. That joint is missing mortar where it meets the brick and is all over the place ranging from almost nothing to 3/4 inch and the bricklayers should have to come back and cut that sloppy shit straight but they don’t have to Just let the caulkers try to make a straight bead and neat seal while their shit brickwork won’t allow it. Brick joints are the absolute hardest things to caulk because of this type of No standards shit work and Where the F is there ever an inspector on a job in this No standards nation??
thanks ..i am geting ready to do some remorter & paint my concrete brick building .. ( RAIN SOCKES THROUGH and then a nasty mold acumlates inside ) im defiantly not going to acid it now 🫡
Golly, this was a really good video. This guy knows his stuff, and his delivery is so clear, confident, and precise, that you know he's got to be spot on. I don't believe I have ever seen a man on RU-vid so composed and clear and mature in relaying information as this man. Well done, and you have made me really think about abandoning muriatic acid.
25 yrs ago I dumped straight acid onto my stained garage floor in small sections then stood far back and hosed the garage out. I didn’t know younhave to mix it with water. There were no RU-vid videos back then to learn from. Today I want to clean my brick pavers (power wash isn’t an option because I’ll blow the stones out) but I’m scared they’ll just fall apart while I’m sleeping.
That brickwork is Shockingly bad! In the uk we built in a brick width roll of foam that has a 10 mm strip that peels off after the brickwork is built ready to be sealed with a bead of mastic.
Bob, you're not correct when you say a weathered joint angled from top to bottom is not a good water repellent. This type of joint has been a standard in the UK for hundreds of years and does a better job of directing water to the outside of the brick than the rounded joint you're positing. It also depends on the type of mortar you're using. What you say may be acceptable for a Portland cement type mortar, but inadequate for an Historic quicklime, hot lime or NHL kind of joint. From my experience of American masonry the only reason a barrel joint is used is for speed. It's certainly not for aesthetics or weather repelling.
i use muratic acid and it cleans it just fine. All you need to do: wet the brick; use the right amount of muriatic acid and water; apply acid; brush with a soft plastic brush, and rinse immediately to avoid staining. That's it!!
just soak the brick and use a tester brick so you can tell. get the old Samon brick and test that. if you can keep that in good shape its safe for anything else too
Just wanted to add. Where us blue skin on the under the flashing or coping cap? No matter what if there is no blue skin membrane sooner or later it will leak.
Oddly the title is "Cleaning Brick Work", but this guy tells you NOT to clean brick, because the only suggestion he gives is NOT to use muratic acid. Well, you can always do a paper test PH/acid and see how strong your acid is. SO WHAT DO you suggest to use? Only mentions commercial "cleaner". What is that??!!
What you are using the acid for is the calcium reaction from the mortar, which cleans it off. Muriatic acid is a industry name for diluted hydrochloric acid. Use a pH/acid tester if you want to be sure. This is a BOGUS video.
Expansion joints are just the most silly thing ever. To put a vertical line of weakness in brickwork. I have seen poorly constructed walls nearly falling down and were are they breaking? Along the expansion joint. They are a completely needless point of weakness in a wall and the proof of their needlessness can be seen in 200 year old walls which stretch for miles but which have not suffered for want of an expansion joint.
200 yr old walls used lime mortar that expands with the growth of the brick. Modern day clay bricks will expand and or blow without expansion gaps. I make my money by re building blown or cracked brick walls/houses. I’ve seen houses over two storey pulled down, due to having none!
@@mikefandango2296 It is true that modern mortars, which are harder than the bricks, do cause problems. They should not make mortars like that. They need make more suitable mortars of use the lime based mortars like they used to rather than putting a faultline of weakness in a wall. I have seen a poorly constructed retaining wall 9 inch wall 6 feet high with porous bricks falling down at the expansion joint.
In a brick veneer, there are additional ties installed between the bricks and the timber frame either side of the expansion join. This is supposed to allow the joint to move (open and contract) without the wall falling over.
You’re right about that sir and I would know, spent 30 years in bricklayers union and spent a lot of time trying to caulk and seal ugly sloppy low standards splash job brickwork joints USA might be the only place that is so low no standards that uses control and expansion joints
@@mikefandango2296They most likely had bad mortar originally poorly mixed dead mortar or something Had nothing to do with not having control joints which are Only in No standards USA England Never lowered standards to American flim flam caulk and paint will make it what it aint no standards shit
