Makes me sad to see this. We had a 1974 Valley Forge and did a lot of camping in ours. It had an awning added as well as a battery. I slept very well in ours.
Fantastic! I have been considering doing this myself for a few months now. Some plans and/or measurements would be great but great inspiration as it is. Thanks!
Sure. 128 litter boxes form 23Zero. Remives the struts so I could get the lid to sit at 90 degree. Used Amsteel rope for a clean look. 23zero has the molle panel for their 102 liter box. It’s wasn’t a perfect fit, but it turned out nicely.
Also, I welded some mounts for the gear boxes and then used straps to hold them on so I didn’t have to put holes in the boxes. With the mounts a welded tabs that fit between the ridges on the bottom so the box can slides back and forth front to back.
Question did you modify the HF trailer like tire size? if you didn't how well does it tow on the highway. I dont expect to drive 70 mph but if it could go 60 or so with no issues. Some others say you must use larger tires and change things on the trailer. Thanks 73
Wow more like a cottage with those windows now your talking. Maybe this is more practical than a tear drop. Easier to build. I would skip the buddy heater i live in Florida. I would try to hide an AC unit i dont like seeing window units hanging out but to hide one that's ok. Wow that's smart not permanently mounted so the tag can be for a utility trailer not a camper. Thats cool. 73
I'm a little surprised at how much it weighs for its small size. I would have guessed 750 lbs. Mine will have 1" foam walls skinned outside with fiberglass and 1/4" birch plywood on the inside. Same size, 4'X8' and use the Harbor Freight trailer. My estimated weight is 650 lbs.
I think the trailer limit was 1700 lbs. It weight in at 900. I think that included propane tank, empty cooler, 12 gallons or water, stove, 12 v deep cycle battery, mattress, sleeping bag, and a couple odds and ends.
I'm planning to build a removable camping pod similar to yours. I would like to get more details on your pod base and trailer bed, as well as how well pod attachment worked
Awesome! The turn buckles worked well! In addition to the turn buckles, I had stop blocks front and back. I could have also bolted it down to the trailer. I am sure there are half a dozen other methods. Maybe even a roller to make it easier to roll on or off. Good luck with your project. I'd love to see what you come up with.
It never ceases to amaze me why all these builds (except for one) use white lights instead of red to light their interior and exterior. I can only suppose these campers like to attract bugs and destroy their night vision....
Can i please ask, how is the water flow in the rain when your at the back cooking. Is there a rain gutter? just curious as this seems to be the most practical inexpensive build i have seen and I would very much like to make this over the winter.
Good point. In a heavy rain, you’d want to close the hatch. Otherwise, half the water would go off the back. The other would run toward the hurricane hinge and then to the sides. I am thinking some would run down the outside wall. If this is a regular issues. I’d rig some water proof material from the lid/hatch and attach it so the water drains out of the alley area.
The floor, walls, and ceiling are two sheets of 1/2 plywood that sandwiches insulation. Also, it is structurally sound enough to stand a lone without using the trailer frame as a structural component. A foamie would be less than half the weight. Good luck with your build.
Oh, wow. I don’t mean to be disrespectful but this is seriously overbuilt. I have built two trailers. Both are framed with 3/4” lumber, some 1x3 and some 2x2. One trailer has 1/4” plywood outside and 1/8” inside. Both are insulated with pink 3/4” foam board. It is built on an old Northern Hydraulic boat trailer. I can tip it easily to put leveling blocks under the wheels. The second is on a more substantial trailer(Teske 4x8). This one has 1/8” ply on both sides. It weighs 484 lbs. My daughter pulls it with a Nissan Versa Note. Both trailers are sturdy and can stand alone. I use two part epoxy for gluing and such. I also use epoxy on all exterior wood for water protection. I use these same materials for kayak building. I do finish the roofs with 6oz. I have to use construction adhesive on the foam board however. I finish the roofs with 6oz. fiberglass cloth and epoxy. I know epoxy can be costly(RAKA is the cheapest out there I think) but in use I don’t think construction adhesive is much if any cheaper. Plus, there is nothing stronger for gluing the frames than epoxy and wood flour. I think most people over build a great deal. They could save much weight and still have sturdy trailers that last as long as any others.
Question for ya. I’ve read that one should always use a toggle with this knot and than hang your carabiner behind the toggle when let’s say hanging a hammock. I’ve always just used the carabiner in the knot as shown in the video with no issues. Am I missing something by not having the toggle? The reason I ask this is I have used a piece of wood from the forest and it ended up being brittle breaking and than off course you fall.
