Here you will see videos focused on a variety of crafts but mainly focused on custom woodworking, CNC, tips, jigs, and more. There may even be an occasional tool review... or rant. I'm always trying to think outside of the box looking to make unique and different products. or at least make them differently. I've been making sawdust since the late 80's.
My passion for woodworking, mixing in the fun and survivalist nature of paracord, and my faith birthed chrisTcross Crafts. I enjoy interacting with others, so any (clean) suggestions or opinions are appreciated. We all can learn from each other.
Not really. It was built custom to my needs and wants. Most of the information is listed throughout the video. I designed it on a napkin then on paper with a list of all I wanted.
This is honestly amazing now im kicking myself bc this wouldve been perfect for my garden tools but i just put up french cleats and now need to adapt to that system lmao!
You could even get a little more depth by sort of sliding shelf flush to wall by cutting out slots around studs for actual shelf... not much, but every bit counts!!
In my shop, I did just that and also built shelves between the studs. Here, I didn't because I'm using the gap behind the shelves and between the studs to prevent tool handles (shovels, rakes, etc.) From falling.
I didn't here because what would be stored here isn't heavy. I did when I built the same storage in my shop. I hung from it then stored stacks of barnwood on it.
i just try search and looking what feed and speed need use my new 2mm and 3mm bit and V-bit 15 degree 6mm-0,3mm carving bit. but all have only old cavemen imperial dimensions, need normal metric system know feed and speed, spindle not can setting less 10 000 RPM. 10K-24K normal. little tip, 97% all earth use metric system, only 3 country use old historic cavemen imperial system today.
Do a quick internet search for inch per minute to mm per minute. Fill in your specks and jot down the result. A few minutes now saves a lot of work later.
the placement of the router top vertical adjustment on the router is in the wrong place. The Manuf. should of put it to the lower right. Where it is now I have to move my fence back to use the handle.
I have mine installed sort of sideways in my table and have no issues accessing the switch or below table adjustment knob from below, or the above table adjustment hole with the fence pulled in over the collet.
I just receive a dust rite cyclone dust collection system. Advertised as 1250CFM. But after 3 uses, I’m getting 450CFM. It’s super weak. I may upgrading to this one here
I cut a lot of mdf and even that barely slows it down. I do have to clean out the bag more than if I'm only doing solid wood or plywood. I love this system.
Great video, although I do have a couple of questions. 1. What is the v-carve type bit you're using? 2. What is the depth of the cuts? it seems a single v-carve is doing the single job. 3. What seal did you use? Can it be used on paint? I'm trying to paint the wood black, use the oramask to carve out lettering then applying different coloring. but it seems I need to cut them out first? I appricate your time and video. Cheers.
1) that is my go-to 60v bit spectra from Amana 2) they vary based on the width of the font lines. In vectric, it has a toolpath called "v-carve" which bases the depth on font line width, bit used, and depth is varied automatically. 3) any sealer works. If using Lacquer, then seal with lacquer sealer. If something else, shellac works well. Paint or seal, then oramask. Cut out letters for the first color, then reapply oramask. Cut 2nd color, and repeat as needed.
6-13-2024- huge reduction in quality. Does NOT come partially assembled and the instructions are atrocious!!! Thought this video would help but it doesn't come like this anymore. I wish it looked like the one in this video!!
You used sanding sealer before the Oramask, but don’t you need to get it into the engraved areas after carving (or did I miss that step)? It seems like stain or paint could get into the newly exposed endgrain and migrate that way.
At about 10:30', you had a circular closeup (?) while you were winding the router up and down. What did the closeup show, and was there anything on the Triton that made winding easy? Thanks
The triton has an above table adjustment rod that allows for easy fine tuning. Once set, you do need to lock the colum so no movement occurs. From below, there's a quick knob for fast adjustment up and down. If the router is used by hand, both the quick adjustment and fine tuning are still functional.
I have the same machine. I just got this gauge it’ll be here shortly. Curious if you’ve found making adjustments on the spindle to last awhile, or if you regularly need to perform this operation. I’m starting to feel more prominent lines in my spoilboard, which of course isn’t gonna be acceptable. Will be nice to have the gauge, just wondering how often you do this. Thanks 🤙🏽
Thanks for watching. I check it as needed. The X will have little movement but should be close. If you regularly take deep passes, then that frequency would be more often.
Of all the "feeds and speeds" videos I watched, this was the FIRST one to tell and show me how to test my specific machine so I can document my recommended feeds and speeds for MY setup. If I purchased an off-the-shelf cnc from Shapeoko and the rest, they would have most of the F&S documented already - which is a *significant* value for a new CNC-er. I built my own setup based on recommendations from a friend in the industry and it's capabilities are somewhere in the middle to low-middle range of CNCs out there. Now I know how to figure out the best settings for it! THANK YOU for **demonstrating** how to test a machine! Well done! (Yes, it wasn't a fun and interesting video, but it was just as valuable - maybe more valuable - than the fun ones!)
I am really diving into feeds and speeds before I get my Axiom Iconic8 which gets delivered tomorrow. This is very informative! One more thing that would be very interesting that I will probably do when I get setup and run this test is get an infrared temp reader and check the bit temp at the end of each cut to see how the bit is handling the speed/feed. I currently have a X Carve and I have toasted (3) 1/4" bits running them too slow. Thanks for all of your hard work on this!
Some bits stay cooler due to coatings, but running them at high rpms and slow feed rates will certainly decrease life. Using the mfg data as a starting point then dialing down to match machine and project specs helps. Then make notes in vectric for said bit.
This is so perfect, I just ordered an Axiom Iconic 8 and didn't want to go the toolbox and was going to make one and here you have it! I love how you made it fit in like it is metal but made from wood. I used to program CNC's for a living and they all had the pin setup for a fence, although they were pneumatic and raised and lowered with G code so I will add in your fence system also. I don't know how close my Iconic table is to yours, it is a 2x4 but may be different. Lots of projects to keep me busy! Keep up the good work.
Thanks for watching. I had to beat and beat to get that frame in. I made it too close to size, but got it in. The tables are vastly different between the iconic and pro. The principle will still work.
I have a general question. This is the first big project I used oramask and when I pulled the oramask off it left a sticky residue on project. Is there a special way to get the residue off without removing the paint underneath? Thank you.
It can become an issue if you leave it on for a long time (a couple of days) or if the wood is porous. I have had it be sticky if i applied it over a finish that wasn't dried well. Apart from that, I've never had leave a residue.
@@ChristcrossCrafts thank you. Well the paint was left for a couple days before masking so I assumed the paint was dry. I did put a thin coat of urethane over the paint so that must not have been dry enough. Thanks for the help.
That variation in hole size is likely due to backlash on the ball screws or something of that sort. I doubt that Axiom controls have an adjustment for it. I spent 25+ years as a tool and die maker programming and running some very high end steel cutting mills and Fanuc controls have a way to compensate for the ball screw backlash down to .0001 of an inch. Not required for woodworking but it does make a difference in some cases like this. If you want tight holes on a mid range router, I would suggest cutting the hole .005-.010 undersize and use a reamer for final fit.
I have an earlier Delta Contractor Saw 34-445 that I got it from a neighbor, and the blade guard assembly was missing. I considered the splitter assembly you purchased, but costs a $108. I'm cheap. What I did get uses the mount you removed. It is a Guard Assembly w/Separator (Part# N436623) for a Dewalt DWE7485 Contractor Saw for $36.80 + shipping. It does require some minor metal cutting, but works great, and has a port on it if you want to add vacuum.
Mictojig makes a splitter that installs into the insert. That would be the way I'd go if I were to do it again. They offer both a full and thin kerf option.
Hi awesome build. I am in need of the rectangular connection from the impeller side to the dust bag ring. Do you know where I can find one? I cant tell you how many I have watched but lots of new things from each.
That is extremely overbuilt for the less than 20 lbs you have on that.I built something similar with only 2x4s and it was able to hold m 200+ lbs on one bracket. The main difference was that I used the 2x4s the wide way because I have to screw it into the finished wall and instead of plywood, I used a section of 2x4 cut at a 45 degree angle and it is all supported from the top because there is peg board beneath it, so there is even less strength than what you built.
Very interesting setup. Currently trying to get mine set up. At the very end of this video, a piece of slotted angle bracket was mentioned and shown, but I could not see how it was employed. Please clarify. Also really like the lifting handle! It would be very helpful if a pattern, or picture, of the arm could be posted. Thank-you for sharing!
Thanls for watching. I don't recall where the angle bracket was used. I sold that assembly when I upgraded to a much larger cyclone system, so I can't look for it or offer a photo of the pattern for the arm. I sort of built it for my needs and space. I wish I could offer more help. Maybe look at the final walk through and see if you notice the angle bracket.
I rewatched the video for the angle piece. Scroll to about 10:2-10:35 and you will see two white angle brackets on either side of the unit being installed on the lid of the system and up to the wooden arms. These are lifting it up and down with the arms.
