Thanks, this was really helpful. I do have a simpler fix for you. I filed a bit off the pivot arm (the one that has the cable attached) where it stops against the body of the clutch assembly. This accomplishes the same result as your addition of a plastic washer, it lets the fork push the spline ring up higher. In my situation, it fixed the problem without needing to pull the whole linkage apart. I could also file just a little bit at a time, until the desired result was achieved. If you try this, you probably shouldn't take off so much that the cable goes tight. That might cause other problems.
Hey buddy thank you so much I had the exact same issue with my coco pro hero-rec unit. I was going crazy checking everything trying to figure out why it wouldn’t produce sound . After 3 days of pulling my hair out I stumbled across your video plugged a 1/4 guitar cable in to the headphone jack and got some intermittent sound. Cleaned it with some contact cleaner and now she is as good as new. Brilliant ! I am so glad you made this video thank you.
Hello, can you tell me how to take that control panel out of the gig star? My CD player in it no longer works and I'm trying to figure out how to fix it or is it possible just to hook another CD player up to the input and get it to work.? Thank you for any information
There are four screws at the back toward the top then two on each side he front covered by plastic covers. Once you remove them the module slides out frontwards. You have to disconnect two tw-wire connectors inside.
Thanks! I replaced that transistor and it was still doing it so I individually disconnected the 3 pin plug with the sense wires to see if it was coming from one of the driver boards and it turns out it was a bad 2SC869 (Q11 on driver board). Also replaced the blue tantalum caps C11 on each side as they were very high esr.
This is the 2nd video of yours I've watched on DIY repairs. The first was on a control board for an Amana/Whirlpool washer that I fixed with your help. Now it's time to tackle my no heat issue on a Whirlpool dryer. All the heat related items checked out for continuity and ohms at the element, so it's gotta be the timer. Thank you for sharing your experiences they are a great help to those of us on very limited budgets.
Mine grinds on spin, so I think the plastic teeth may have worn. Can't seem to crack that 17mm nut loose, though. Waiting for some penetrating oil to hopefully help loosen it.
I just got a free Amana washer with the ECB too. The lid lock switch is broken and was in the pieces in a plastic bag with black electrical tape.I plug the machine in and nothing happens with the switch out of it. I watched your video and will now be removing the ECB to inspect it for damage in case the previous owner tried to do the stupid by pass thing. It's evident that doing that is frying those boards and these machines are not granmas old washers. Thanks for sharing this information. 2 thumbs up for the walk through on the LED's. Looks like you have an informative channel. Liked and subbed.
I hardly ever comment about this stuff I just use the info provided and fix it. Cutting that little hammer claw plastic piece did the trick for me. Thanks
This washer does NOT have a transmission and I don’t think there are bearings on this washer either which is why you don’t really see Samsung top loaders get really loud. But you do see the Whirlpool and sometimes GE models where you notice that they get really loud before the machine breaks entirely. Most older washers had a bearing in the transmission so do most vertical modular designs but I do believe many of the new direct drive designs don’t have bearings. Examples of vertical modular washer designs include Whirlpool, GE, and the new Frigidaire stacked units. Those all use the vertical modular designs and it’s actually a pretty generic design used on washing machines
0:36 You said transmission, this washer does not have a transmission and I don’t think it has bearings either This washer does not have a transmission, instead it has a clutch. Also you put the protective stuff on the control panel
The 2 round components must not be in contact with each other so there is no grinding noise in AGITATION MODE. Must those 2 components be in contact with each other so SPINNING MODE can be possible? If so, the ginding noise will disappear in AGITATION MODE but remain in SPINNING MODE. I got this result.
Thanks for this. Couldn't figure out why the dryer started out quiet and then got noisy when I left. Saved me a lot of trouble shooting. Not to mention, I would have figured out the left hand thread on the blower fan after I broke it!! In fact it was so tight, I questioned if mine was opposite to yours!
back in the day they had metal stems, heavy contacts , they lasted 20 years.. glad im out of appliance repair. the contacts used to have a thick pad of silver on them, not sure what they use now.. once the contact surface pits and burns it will quickly weld itself together or arc and build slag and not make contact.. also, the dryer motors dont have solid copper windings anymore, they are copper coated.. the paint on the drums peels off, the belts are junk and dont last 3 years, the metal in the rollers is junk pot metal, the case of the dryer is sharp and cuts u to shred when working on them.. its sad to see whirlpool go down so much, I used to love them, but I guess to compete with the chinese and korean junk market, they had to cut costs.excellent video and repair !!! thanks.. my timer was very hard to turn, I think there was lint stuck between the stem and the case, but im going to lube it up with some vaseline just to make sure it doesnt bind up or wear the levers.
Just want to thank you so much for this video! My fridigaire dryer did the exact same thing. Now I know what to replace. You saved me hundreds in repair work for something I can fix myself. Thanks again!
I can't wait to try this. I'd initially replaced the front felt and glides, as the glides were definitely broken off (and it's a project I've tackled in the past). When that didn't help, I decided to tackle replacing the belt and the rear axle (and its receiver). That didn't work, so I took everything apart, again, blew it all out with canned air, and decided to replace the tensioner pulley assembly. That seemed to to the trick - for all of 2 loads of laundry. Then, the tell-tale rumbling started back up, always getting worse the longer the dryer runs. As I read in some of the other comments, I never thought to replace the blower, as it seems to spin freely. On the plus side, other than the motor, I've pretty much rebuilt my dryer.
Excellent information. I see this on occasion myself and usually just change the board and pitch the burned one in the trash. I’ll attempt repairs in the future. Thanks for this video!
How long does yours last? I had done point filing on cars when they used them years ago and it dibt last long as they need to be very smooth. Where can I buy the contacts is what I would like to find out.somebody makes them
I just replaced those two plastic gears. The teeth were torn up. Now I know why. I put a set screw in the top arm so it's adjustable as the parts wear.
Mine doesn't seem to spin very fast and the clothes are unusually wet and heavy. No codes. The dryer that came with it (bought the used set) needed drum wheels, something I've never seen before. I assume it's from heavy wet clothes.
Thank you for this video!! This thankfully worked for me, I’m a stay at home mom with no type of experience in this Field and I was able to do this just following your very detailed instructions! Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge :)
I'd buy you a case of beer if I could! Luckily I stumbled across this video after the rear drum bearing kit installation and the idler arm job but before I woiuld have changed the belt, glides, spring, seals and ultimately motor. I may never have changed the blower because it appeared to function perfectly. I did the dryer test like in the video, and there was no doubt. Installation was quite quick as I have become quite proficient at tearing apart and rebuilding the dryer multiple times over the last week.
I have the same problem on a Panasonic 13kg Automatic washing machine. People throw away machines here just because drive belt is loose... that was the case but there is the ANNOYING ratchet sound when in wash cycle (Agitating) ... I noticed a lock nut and an adjust nut on the activator arm of the motor more like a servo I think that engages those teeth... but these teeth are quite visible (,no visible wear or plastic shavings/debris ) like a gear with splines and a "ratchet cam" that engages somehow from that servo and activator arm.... probably needs to have some slack taken up with the tension adjust nut.... other than that machine works perfectly... got it for 20 bucks it's around a year old... someone was overloading it no doubt.. common same as using too much detergent.
Yep for sure - people give up too quick. Most top load washers these days use some method of basically linking or un-linking the the drum from the drive system. During spin the drum and agitator are locked together and this is usually done with some type of spline shaft and actuator mechanism. If you hear a grinding like that during agitation, it's usually because the splines are not fully disengaged and just catching a litte bit. Usually it's because of something worn, warped or sticking in the linkage train of the shifter mechanism.
@@PAballoonists ok Thank you.... I saw what is obviously a lock nut and adjustor nut on the linkage of the shifter mechanism.. it's probably to take up slack as things stretch or shift or wear down... I will have a closer look in the morning... other than that the machine is smooth as silk and quiet... there is a very visible plastic spline shaft with a ratchet like cam that pivots both directions.... not sure how it works but I'm pretty sure that's the source of the sound... ratchet cam and spline shaft grinding on each other. Thanks for the support... much appreciated Even if I was a millionaire I wouldn't just throw stuff away. That Samsung front loader was crap BTW... gawd..... if you look at it the wrong way it would break.
@@PAballoonists ok.... opened it up again and could NOT see a motor or servo that works the activator arm that is connected to the "ratchet cam" that rides in the spline shaft...it seems to go under the washing drum I wanted to move it to see how it works,,, ended up Tightening the tensioner screw which seemed to push the cam away from the spline slightly.... actually it seemed to change the angle of cam more than distance it... washing a sheet now... but annoying ratchet sound persists.... I dont know... slacken the tensioner screw next time ?... is all guess work. Under the spline shaft there is a wirey spring.... any input would be greatly appreciated... I feel this is something minor.... as it is with life... fixing the problem is easy.... finding the problem IS NOT,
Spin cycle is smooth as silk and does a GREAT job at drying out clothes... its spinning now,,, will stop it while water is out and turn tensioner opposite direction... thr ratchet sound is actually a little more intense after tightening adjustment nut/bolt before it seemed like it ALMOST wants to stop.
@@PAballoonists Slackening the tensioner bolt seems to have no effect.... I will slacken it another 2mm ..... keep repeating this in both directions.... if no improvement , I will pull off spline shaft and see what may be going on in there... perhaps the spring doesnt have the umph it used to. ?... I'm stabbing in the dark at this point.
If you leave the belt on the pulleys you can put your ratchet on the bolt and jam a screwdriver handle or rubber hammer handle between the belt and the opposite side of the puller from your ratchet. Not you can break the bolt loose. Hope that helps!
Thank you for the videos. Have the same washer with the same model number. It started making that grinding noise last night enough for me to be concerned and almost thought about having to buy a new one. I do have one question please tell me why its called the Exploding Washer??
There is a factory recall on it. If you wash heavy or bulky loads on other than Bedding/Waterproof cycle it may come apart. There is a warning sticker on my washer. I wish I could post a picture.
My washer makes a loud grinding noise, I tried your method but found out that my problem is during the agitate cycle where the top gear (plastic) does not drop enough to engage the steel gears at the bottom. Do you think the spring above the plastic gear is all that pushes it down to engage or is there something else...It seams like it's not a stiff enough spring. Thank you for the videos
I have the same type and it’s making the buzzing/grinding noise which I’m assuming is the same sound yours was making but when it came to taking apart that black tab and the pin and shaft flew off, I have no idea how that would go back on. Ps it’s actually not my washer or dryer it’s the the landlords and I really don’t want to risk ruining there stuff even more lol
This works perfect. I was able to tip mine over and reach the lever without disassembling the motor bracket. I just used a very thick tie wrap around the arm as a spacer.
Hey must say a very well explained video having an issue with a drier change the selector and the drier works now and there is no heat but before I changed it there was heat checked all the sensor to the back and it's ok any thoughts
Make sure your heating element is not open. You should get continuity with an ohm meter across the two big terminals of the heating element. If you are very comfortable around electricity you can try turning the dryer on and while it's running make sure you measure 220 volts at the two terminals of the heating element with your meter on AC volts. This is very dangerous to do and you could get a shock or be killed if you don't know how to do it safely. The heating element is in series with the thermostat right next to the terminals and also with the high limit fuse located at the top of the heat duct. If either of those two are open then you won't get any heat either.
