Thanks so much for sharing this. I was working on a similar S&H circuit but the trigger was not quick enough to deal with audio rate clock signals. Your solution is super fast and works really great. I found some improvements by changing the hold capacitor to a 0.1uF (up from your 0.01uF) and changing the 10K between the source and gate of the JFET to 1M. This led to a bit more note stability when using slow clocks and less droop in the voltage. I'm really happy with this solution that is rather versatile and yet simple. Thanks again!
Dude, you're god-sent! I tried the same thing as you. Tried setting up an eurorack-interface but couldnt get it to work with my lypeak. I thought something was wrong... thought it was off, that there was no ILDA-mode on the device. The crappily translated manual was insinuating it would automatically switch to ILDA-mode, when a signal was present... I would have never thought of tearing the laser up and probing some random unconnected pins. Glad you did! Works for me now too! Hope you don't mind me designing my own module, I owe you brother.
Yes, water is only bad if there is electricity. Almost all PCBs in products have had a "wash" step. I always let everything dry a day or too before powering it up.
Do you have schematics or values for the green polyester capacitors on the sound generator board? Mine has a hard gunk covering the caps and I can’t read the values on them
They vary for 0.01uf to 0.1uf. I would be happy to send you some photos. Use the contact form on my website so I can get your e-mail address. recklessexperimentationaudio.com/contact
Someone wanted to know how to undertake this project. I searched for a video to share and to my surprise you used the pedals you got from me quite a while ago. Glad to see the finished product. Awesome job!!!
Your circuit worked great on a breadboard, but on perfboard noise frequencies are too high, clean when I run the noise through a LP filter. Should I consider changing the values of my component’s? I’m getting 50pF on trigger and 9nF on the 5 pin to ground. Or do I add a LP gate, (resistor/cap)
Might want to try cleaning the flux off the perf board. Sometimes, on high impedance circuits, the flux residue can become slightly conductive. This can cause voltage leakage to different parts of the circuit. Fortunately the fix is easy.
Interesting, your schematic show a TL082, but your video indicates that you opted for the TL072; is that because of what you had on hand? I think I will try both to see which performs better, if there is any difference at all.
Actually the TL082 works a little better for my eurorack V/oct modulation purposes. Thank you this circuit performs better than one that uses TL074 and JFET.
Fascinating and enlightening. Thank you for the plain-speak demonstration. I plan to build one of these circuits for my Buchla which is +/-15V. Would that have an impact on the resistors or caps sizing? I may build a +/- 12V on my breadboard so I can use my eurorack power to test it. Don't want to damage the Buchla. Then upsize the components. What size Ecaps are those that you use to purify the power source to the breadboard?as needed
I think it would be an identical circuit on a +/- 15 volt supply. I generally use 10uf 25V caps for power filtering (+ or - power rail to ground), and 50V ceramic caps for everything else. The op-amps are good to 36V total supply voltage. Resistor values shouldn't need to change either.
Thank you so much@@Recklessexperimentationaudio . Makes perfect sense. Your schematic show you using a pair of 104s for power filtering (only needed on breadboard, not needed on a pcb?) and a 103 for your input to gnd reference. but what was the other capacitor you used to slow down the input to the 3904? A 20? C36.
@@danobrien3292 104 or 100nf cap are recommended to be placed as close to the chips as possible for best noise reduction. All the chips should get one on each power rail. The 20pf cap is to provide a pulse of current to the 3904 to capture the voltage sample. higher value longer sampling time, I found 20pf worked for me.
1. Alcohol vapors are flammable. 2. Ultrasonic cleaners, especially if the fluid level gets too low, tend to aerosolize some of the liquid, which then evaporates quickly forming vapor. (Think ultrasonic humidifiers.) 3. Ultrasonic cleaners normally heat the liquid, too. Hot alcohol evaporates way faster. 4. The sheer amount of alcohol needed to fill an ultrasonic cleaner big enough for even modest size boards is significant. 5. Standard ultrasonic cleaners use normal switches, timers, and thermostats that cause sparks when switching. This could ignite alcohol vapors. The upshot is that it’s a fire risk. They make special ultrasonic cleaners for use with solvents. But often it’s not necessary to use a full-alcohol bath anyway. One thing people do is to put the board into a small container or plastic bag and put alcohol inside the bag. Then you put the bag in the ultrasonic bath full of water. Not only is this far cheaper, it’s far safer. Another option is to use a bath composed of a blend of alcohol and water. The alcohol will still do its job, but the fire risk is reduced. (This is how windshield washer fluid works.) And finally, they make water-based cleaning products for circuit boards, specifically for use in ultrasonic cleaners.
Yeah, I'm not normally someone concerned over safety issues, but this just doesn't seem like a good idea. Flux off works just fine, and I've found Micro Care's cleaners to be even more effective still.
@@ElationProductions Ultrasonic is really good for getting flux out from hard to clean nooks, like under SMD parts, where you can’t get a brush in to scrub. But I wouldn’t fill a whole ultrasonic cleaner with solvent to do it! :P
Note to self: Denatured alcohol and carburetor cleaner as well as acetone based nail polish and non acetone based nail polish are good for cleaning circuit boards, but the acetone based nail polish and the acetone based nail polish (AT LEAST) will soften any plastic that it comes into contact with. These solvents can often be reused to clean another circuit board later on if need be.
Great video! Nicely done. Could that last jumper have been the interlock that was never connected to the back panel? Just an FYI, it's not "LIDA", it's" ILDA" (ill-dah) for the International Laser Display Association. Ron
p.s. here's a video of a mini-show that I created using Pangolin Beyond Software and an ILDA laser projectorl ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pKdojQc9Q-Q.html
"no threading like cross threading" LOL. This is cool. I have a pretty powerful laser that I used to use (5 yrs ago) in my DJ show. I've been wanting to interface my modular (esp the Chaos modules) with the laser, but was concerned about destroying it. Keep me posted on this one. I'm pretty sure I need it.
Hi, really cool module! Were you able to manipulate the ym3812 as a real VCO? I know we can send messages to it to play notes in the chromatic scale, but would it work as a VCO increasing the frequency smoothly instead of just quantized notes? thank you !
Hey, are you able to made this reader for sale ? There is a great number or rolls on the market and people sell them for nothing. What I see is a unit with RCA jack and we just plug it in the aux input. The piano sound can be stored inside the unit and with a memory card or phone we.can choose.piano type, nice work !
A pretty easy addition would be a bar across the board about where the heel is while playing and give it some suspension and make that the sustain pedal. Likewise for the other pedal a bar suspended just over the toes that can be pressed by raising the toe end of the foot. With these mode you could sustain with the playing foot while on any key and then rock the foot even farther back while sustaining to pull up the wah bar over the foot.
It is called either "Masonite", "hard board", or HDF I get mine as 4 foot by 2 foot by 3/32 inch sheets at the Home Depot. Its the best for prototyping face-plates.
